Here are my tiuming maps, Just like the title says i would like to hear everyones opions on my timing values. I based them off of some good archived threads on this and other forums. Anyway i would just like to hear if there safe and if theres any room for improvement (Im sure there is lol).

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421559277/17.jpg

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421559277/18.jpg

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421559277/19.jpg

 

I'm no expert, but wow... that's a lot of timing at idle. I'm curious why you want your T-rpm map shaped like that?

 

as far as idle the more i gave it the smoother it got. I got it shaped like that to reduce timing for peak torque and boost.

 

How do you have your base timing set? Are you timed like Microtech recommends off the stock 5deg BTDC (retarted) mark or have you remarked your pulley? This will let us know you "total advance". If you are timed at -5 on the pulley and are running 14psi you are firing the car at TDC in the 4500 - 5000 range and 2deg TDC above that.

Thats pretty retarded timing, you should be able to run more than that.

 

I have the static value in the microtech set to five and with the timing lock on i have it set to the mark on the right of the pulley.

I was just shooting for something safe for the time being. How far can i advance it? I am keeping my afrs around 10.5.

 

Have you dyno'd and do you have an EGT?

I agree with LT8TurboII on being able to run more timing than that. I was running 14* timing from 5500-6500rpm (I never dyno'd but figured that was around where my peak torque was). This was on 91 octane pump gas. Also, I was only running a hybrid turbo, and got full boost by ~3200rpm in 4th gear.

My t_rpm looked something like this:
500rpm = 8*
1000rpm = 10*
1000-3000rpm = smooth curve from 10*-28*
3000-6500rpm = 28*
6500-7500rpm = 30*

My t_map looked something like this (TA=total advance):
30-0Hg = 0*-------------------- TA = 28*
0Hg-4psi = -5*----------------- TA = 23*
4-8psi = curve to -10*-------- TA = 18*
8-14psi = curve to -14*------ TA = 14*
14-20psi = curve to -20*----- TA = 8*

These timing settings gave me a very strong pull from 3500rpm to around 4800rpm.

 

Alright, thanxs for the advice. I have a wideband but no egt. I will raise the timing some. I am planning to get it tunned oncei get some more money and fix my mmy boost creap issue.

 

Here's Mine, I did not tune the car. I have just started learning how to use the system.
I dyno'd 347.9rwhp @7300rpm
251.7torgue @ 7200rpm
A/F between 10.4-11.6

I know the car has a bad tune and have been trying to learn how to tune it myself, using the laptop and FJO wideband. Got an ETG but haven't installed it yet.




t_rpm MAP

500-1000rpm = 25*
1500rpm = 20*
2000rpm = 17*
2500-4000rpm = 15*
4500-6500rpm = 16*
7000 rpm = 13*
8000-9000rpm = 12*

t_map MAP (How do I find the total advance?)

30hg = +07
25-20hg = +08
15hg = +07
10hg = +02
5hg-2psi = +00
4psi = -01
6-14psi = -03
16psi = -09
18 psi = -20
20psi = -20

RPM t_gap MAP RPM t_inj MAP Degres C T_wat MAP
500 +12 500 120 -25,+05 +00
1000 +15 1000-1500 150 +11 +01
1500 +15 2000-4000 180 +18,+38 +02
2000 +14 4500-5000 210 +46,+60 +03
2500 +12 5500-6500 240 +68,+99 +01
3000 +10 7000-9000 270 +124 +00
3500 +10
4000 +10
4500 +08
5000-9000 +06

 

Here are the last three again.

RPM t_gap MAP
500 +12
1000 +15
1500 +15
2000 +14
2500 +12
3000 +10
3500 +10
4000 +10
4500 +08
5000-9000 +06


RPM t_inj MAP
500 120
1000-1500 150
2000-4000 180
4500-5000 210
5500-6500 240
7000-9000 270

Degres C T_wat MAP
-25,+05 +00
+11 +01
+18,+38 +02
+46,+60 +03
+68,+99 +01
+124 +00

 

Wow, yours and Crusader_9x's cars like a lotta timing at idle.

You figure out total advance by adding or subtracting yopur t_map from your t_rm MAP. So lets say at 4000rpm on the t_rpm MAP, you have your timing at 25*. Then at 10psi on the t_map MAP, you have -5*.... Your total advance at 4000rpm and 10psi would be (t_rpm MAP) - (t_map MAP) = 20* total advance.

 

hey i dug up this thread and my car now idles fine now after it warms up as it would previously not because of timing at idle. The base map they give you have timing at idle set to 0*. If your idle is above 1000 and your tps is 0% it has the total timing at 0 so i set the idle to 10* and then eventually up to 15* at 1100 rpm. The further I take it down it seems to want more adv. I have been tinkering with the afr at idle also to help it. Why would it be set 0 degrees at idle if it can't idle there very well (at around 5 degrees total)?

 

Ive found with rotaries.
the lower they idle The more timing they want.

By putting more timing in they seem to also pull alot more vaccum which helps with leaner afrs and better fuel economy.
Im not sure why this is the case but yes ive definitely noticed this.

I dont see a problem with it either.

when cars are warm i set them with 10-15 degrees of timing at idle depending on how they sound and what vaccum they are pulling.

 

this is where your going all wrong, the first timing mark is -5 deg, so you have 5 in the static, your timing is 10deg out,

you need to set the static to 0 and set the timing 5mm to the right of the first mark, that is TDC

 

if you line up the marks as per factory which is 5 ATDC(-5 degrees).
And you put +5 degrees in the computer youll end up at TDC. At least thats according to the timing light.

Or you can use your method and achieve the same thing.

 

I'm going to use rx72c's method (My +15 is really +10 since I'm set to the -5 mark on the pulley.) If the car idles at 750 rpm from the factory at -5 why would microtech have it set at 0 at idle? And why would my car have to be +10?

 

is your car ported??

i run bridge ports at 25deg at idle....

 

Microtech just put a base map and you have to program it correctly to get the car running perfectly.

Cant expect them to do everything hahahaa.

Dale the last bridgeport i played with i put around 35 degrees of timing(makes them start better as well).

Is their a big problem with doing so? Curious to know what you think.

 

The car has stock ports. It fires up at 0* and idles until it warms up and then dies and won't start back up. (getting trigger, over 100 psi on each rotor and every face when hot). It will idle all day long though at 10*. I'm going to mess with the timing at startup(fuel maps and correctional maps don't do anything). If the car is fully warmed up and you try to start it it doesn't even give a whisper that it is going to start.

 

Thats very very weird.

If you put 10 degrees in the vaccum would go up from say 15hG to close to 20HG and require less fuel so maybe it just needs more fuel in the IDLE 10 and 15 HG maps.

Also. Have you stabbed the CAS correctly and verified it with a timing light.

Can you show me a pic of your CAS (with the cap off) with your 5ATDC(-5 degrees) mark lined up just to see if it is stabbed correctly.

 

Mine is stabbed exactly like this and then I turned it counterclockwise a hair to line up with the -5 mark. I was thinking...I have a walbro 255...at -19 hg my fuel pressure is at 49 psi (it seems to be rising by day), so I'm idling at 49 psi. I compensated with this with the mixtrim set to -13. Then I calculated the load points in the idle to be 13 percent less and returned the mixtrim to 0. that worked well but I still need to get an aftermarket regulator. Is that too high of a fuel pressure for a smooth idle (is this the whole point of a rising regulator?) I never understood why there isnt a flat pressure and control the rest through the computer.

 

If you have an aftermarket pump and a standard reg its a bad combo.

That will CAUSE ALOT OF PROBLEMS and possibly the one you are having.

Get an aftermarket fuel reg(see my sig).

That is stabbed correctly and if your timing gun is showing timing marks to be correct then its all good.

49psi is alot of fuel pressure for idle. shouldnt need to be more then 30psi especially with walbros which **** them self at high fuel pressure.

Do you have early FC injectors(square plug)?

 

yes I have s5 injectors right now. What would that indicate. How do you eliminate the fuel reg on an s5 rail, or do I have to find an s4 one somewhere (don't have the cash for a full fuel setup yet)

 

Im assuming you have s5 fuel rails?

I can modify a S5 fuel rail down here and send it up to you with a fuel reg.

Basically i chop the old reg off and silver solder a brass 5/16 fitting on and thats it.