having a problem with a microtech install. installed m-tech 3 weeks ago but never got it to start. the problem is it will sometimes try to start but most of the time it wont. looking at the laptop software you will find the the rpm is also intermittent as well as the amber light on the unit. removed the crank angle harness and ohmed it out. found no resistance. reinstalled and had the same problem. talked directly with microtech and we agreed on getting it tested. boxed it up and sent it in. THEY FOUND NO PROBLEMS!!. they insisted it was a grounding problem so when i got it back i added 4 engine grounds. same problem. removed crank angle sensors and tested. found them good. i also shimmed the sensors to get a closer gap and found the signal got better and still very intermittent. to my understanding if you dont have a consistant flicker with the amber lights as weel as the rpm on the laptop then there is no need to go any further right. any help will be appreciated. car is a 94 fd. microtech is a lt10 with ignitor.

 

it trys to start and it wont??

maybe you have your fuel mapping totally wrong...

 

if the fuel mapping is totally wrong should you still loose your rpm and flickering amber lights. remember it will only try to start when it has this.

 

10secrx7 - the mapping was done by Jon at microtech(repair) in Aus. I talked to Maria at microtech repair ,she the ecu was fine and that the set-up and base map was install, what else could be the cause

 

how is the battery voltage when you are trying to crank the engine?

If there is a fuel delivery problem and the engine is cranking but not firing the battery voltage may drop lower than the sensors or may be the ECU can operate at and you may get a flicker on the RPM

Do you have FUEL? at the injector, are the injectors firing? is the fuel pump pumping?

Do you have SPARK? pull a plug out and watch if there is spark when cranking.

 

once again when trying to start we have no flickering amber light or rpm which means we have no pulsating injectors or coils. i thought you had to have a pulse to pulse injectors and coils.

 

once we intermittently get an rpm/amber light flicker it will try to start. we cant get it to hold a signal long enough to adjust the map to get it started.

 

guru's please chime in.

 

sorry carbon man the battery voltage with booster connected is 14.20 volts. it drops to 11.90 ish when starter is first applied and will level out to 12.15 after initial load.

 

check your cas wiring again, it if it getting signals but not strong ones try swtiching the wires around

Dlae

 

im sorry 10 sec rx7. i have pulled the harness out of the car and ohmed, found no resistance but dont understand about swapping wires around. but i do feel the signal is not very strong at all due to the fact it will attempt to get better if i get the trigger sensors closer to the pulsewheel.

 

any other thouhgts? is it too late to get a refund? e-8/e11 sounds good right now!

 

I would try another CAS and sodder it directly to the wires.

CJG

 

i have tried another cas but i havn't tried the soldering trick. thanks!

 

what does dale mean by swapping wires around.

 

Any Other Ideas. Anyone Else Had This Problem.

 

swap the wires around, change the 2 signal wires around the other way on the sensor,

it is obusally something wrong with your install or the car would have started, probing the wires and checking for resistance is not going to tell you anything, your not getting the correct signal from your sensors,

 

in other words the schematic could be wrong, because wiring is not.

 

no the schematic is right, if your plugs are ok, your battery voltage is over 12v when cranking, you have fuel, your fuel pump is working and your motor has compression and it still wont start then the wiring is wrong somewhere.

have you tried simple things like pulling a little fuel out and trying that??

 

I'ave had a few problems with Mirotech's on Rotarys, and have found the (some) problem's by going in to screen 31 (set up) and in the Config mode dropping the number (4 for 13b) (6 for 20b) down to 0, this put the LTX--in to a self check mode--eg-- will fire the injectors ( without the fuel pump going) and the coils.
You should feel the injectors firing, and with a timing light -- find out if the coils are working.
All so --its not flooding??--the crank settings could be high for it--I had this on a 13brew motor.

 

well 10 sec rx7 i just checked the ecu end of the connector with an oscilloscope and had a strong steady signal every time. i connect it back to the ecu and have the same intermittent signal problem with alternator removed. i talked with tim at microtech and got him stumbled. mabye you have another suggestion. please.

 

try bringing the air gap away a little bit, might be too close. Mazda has air gap specs in the factory service manual

 

we have the sensors at factory settings, we believe the ecu is bad, DO to the fact all measures have being covered, from bat voltage, testing the harness, installing new CAS, we even tested the signal from the CAS at the sensor and even through the harness-a strong signal every time., but once it's installed into the ecu the amber light flickers on and off mostly off intermittently. I bought the Microtech LT10S from A-Spec three weeks ago. I even mailed this ecu off to microtech in Aus. it checked ok. so why am i having the same issues. I was hoping A-spec OR MICROTECH could swap ecu's with me just to honor their warranty or just plain good customer satisfaction but no help(the ecu is brand new) can anyone help! Haltech really sounds good right now. BETWEEN A-SPEC AND MICROTECH NO ONE IS HELPING IT'S BACK AND FORTH - can anbody help?????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????

 

listen to me, have you changed the polarity around on the wires to the cas??

you can probe it and scope it all you want but if the polarity is backwards you will never get it start...

you can winge all you like but im telling you 99% of problems with any ecu is the install or tune... if it was installed right and the tune hasnt been messed with it would have started 1st kick, so as much as you think your perfect im betting it is something with the install causing the problems...

also the orange light is suppose to flash when cranking.... it means it is getting a signal..

 

i will reverse polarity in the morning which is susposed to make it a rising edge trigger. no problem. but is the exact opposite of what the manual states. i guess the manual is 99% of the problem.