I bought my rx-7 awhile ago and it has been sitting for several months while it was painted and the charge pipes rebuilt. Could the program that controlled everything have been erased while the battery was disconnected. I cant get the engine to start. I have fuel pressure but no spark and figured it might be that the microtech lost programming. I havent bought the laptop adapter yet so I cant plug it in to check. Does anyone have any ideas.

 

Not it wont loose the tune.

When you are craking your car do you get an orange light flashing on the unit it self?

 

the red light comes on. I didnt see the orange light though. Someone told me I might have a bad ground or missing the ground. Since it was painted something might not have been replaced. I will check when I get home.

 

If you want to fix the problem. And you want me to help you, you need to give me a descent answer when i ask you to do something.


WHILE YOU ARE CRANKING THE ENGINE is the orange light flashing?

 

sorry. i have been at work all day and wont get home for another 2 hours. i will check the light situation when i get home. i do appreciate the help though

 

No worries. would like to help you find your problem as well.

 

i just tried to start it again. the light was green the whole time it was trying to turn over. it flashed the orange light when i let go of the key after attempting to start. i have 40psi of fuel pressure. it seems like there is no spark whatsoever. how can i check for spark or what would prevent it from firing the plug

 

you coils, plugs or wires would prevent spark.

 

how do you check the coils?

 

i pulled the plug from the block and had someone try to crank it.. no spark. what can i check that drives the coils

 

Oh god. So did it flash while you were cranking?
CAUSE IF IT DOSNT FLASH YOUR CAR WILL NOT START.

 

what does it mean when it flashes red when you are cranking?

 

OK. look.

THEIR ARE 3 LIGHTS.

Green, Orange, Red.

Green means their is power.

Orange. When this light flashes it means your Crank angle sensor is working and giving a signal so that your injectors can pulse and your coil packs can spark.

Red. Means their is an error which you can check with a handset or laptop.

The orange light is more important then the red light. You need to see if your getting a pulse from the CAS.
Once you can rule this out you can move on.
And as i have mentioned above you can only check this on crank.
if it dosnt flash no matter what you do otherwise car will not start.

 

where does the cas plug into the block... i have searched and cannot find a diagram.. its possible it was unplugged when the intake manifold and charge piping was removed.

 

im not getting the orange light...what next?

 

OK. GOOD.
This is a start.

SO it means your CAS is either not working correctly or is disconnected.
THE CAS is on the spark plug side of the motor.


http://www.hitman.hm/cas-1s.jpg

thats a pic of it.
check to make sure its plugged in from both the microtech side and the CAS side and check to make sure their are no cuts in the wires etc.

 

fc or fd?

 

Fd's domt have the same type of crank signal and the fd does not have a CAS

god luck

 

But they still have crank sensors.
So if you dont have a flashing orange light either the CAS or Crank sensors are either disconnected or not working.

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93...crankmod-1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93...rankmod2-1.jpg

 

Ok

-Crank angle sensors spec out fine.
-ECU is wired properly.
-Ignitor Has 12v in
-Ignitor sends 12v out
-Car tuns over, no spark
-Each coil pack has 6v sitting on it
-Continuity to CAS are fine

I am thinking the coil packs are shot, or are not getting adequate voltage. He's using the 93 coil harness which has the external ground. I have a 94/95 harness with the internal ground sitting around here somewhere. Due to time we could not work on it any longer.

Ecu orange light DOES NOT flash when turning it over. However, it blips for second after you let off of the cranking.

The stock ECU and harness is still wired into the car. I have no clue why it was not removed. It looks like the previous owner thought it had some additional controls? It makes wire tracing a bit difficult.

The coil pack is grounded on the coil brace as well. I did not get a chance to check the resistance of the coil packs or to pull of a verify spark myself. I do think that 6v issue is a problem though. There should be at least 12v sitting on each coil pack. Maybe it switches to a higher voltage once you start cranking?

I am open to suggestions at this point.

 

if the orange light isnt flashing.
Your problem is either..



Crank sensors, OR wiring for crank sensors, OR computer.

You wont get any spark etc if the crank sensor dosnt tell the computer to trigger.
Once you get a flashing orange light then you can look else were for a different problem.

Is it using microtech loom or factory loom?

 

I checked the sensors today at work and they were around 1130 or so ohms. We also checked the continuity of the wiring from the sensors to the microtech and it was good. I think its tapped into the factory loom and then some of the wires are wired directly from things like the cas and igniters and such. Im replacing the main fusable link tonight to see if that helps but Im not holding my breathe.

 

As far as I can tell rx72c, the microtech harness is used for the most part. The ignitor has the grey/red grey/blue grey/black and pink wires. However, the stock ecu is still sitting in the car. It looks like it was left in there and not removed for some reason.

Being that his MAIN FUSE was soldered together (he didn't do this, previous owner did) - I think it's possible that it over-volted somewhere and fried something. However, ecu is getting power and will give you a red light if tps or air sensors are not plugged in.

We tried testing using my crank sensors and it didn't work. We checked the wiring from the crank sensors to the ecu and they had continuity, and also had a common ground.

 

He replaced the main fuse... got the orange flashing light, and then a LOUD POP while trying to start it. All that fuel from sitting in the engine =)

The fuse was a problem from the start - didn't have a spare to test or time to get one. He picked it up today, swapped it, and it's all good to go.