That is all stuff I have to learn now, how to fine tune everything I have setup. So far I know I have to mess with my cold start enrichment, accel enrichments, and now your saying how to fine tune the TPS.

I was at first expecting someone elses MSQ to run my car better but now I see why i've been having problems and now need to learn how to correct them on my owne. Any help from soemone else that has been there will help me greatly.

 

20 lbs at idle? i think you're referring to kPa? maybe inHg? hmm..

What are the differences between 29w and 29y1? I may need to update if theres anything vital. It automatically retards as RPM's rise? by how much?

 

I thought he meant 20 inches of vac ...

as far as 029w and y1+ ... there seems to be some latency w/ the lm1815 circuit and the v3 board ... there is a new setting under advanced code options ... latency ... 029w will slightly retard timing as rpms increase ... the latnecy setting makes up for it ... Ken mentioned an avg 80-100 iirc ... lock your timing and rev to 3 or 4k ... you should see that it moves slightly ... add latency until it wont budge.

 

I ment 20 inches of vacuume.

I upgraded to 029w lastnight, everything seems to be ok. I played with the startup enrichments and got it to stay running when cold. After it warmed up I took it for a ride, it bucks like a bull now. I'm leaving for work early today just in case my wife needs to take me to work.

 

bucking is probably a sign that you're lean, do you have an AFR gauge or sensor?

 

I always drive with my laptop on so I can see the afr meter on the screen. It always stays at 14.7..... Than again i'm narrow band.

I'm back from work, while I was there on my lunch break I lowered every number on the ve1 table by 10%, it seems smoother all around now.. I need to work on my accel/decel enrichments now.

 

I still hear this knocking noise, sounds like someone is pounding on my trans with a 3 lb hammer under lite to heavy loads.

 

that definately matches the description of pinging, id be really nervous about driving it, and would definately re-check the timing with a timing light.

 

That is what I thought.... And I have been.

I need to start at the basics. I have the yellow -5 timed from the leading #1 right on the pin. I was thinking my first row in the timming bin at idle is set at -5. Could this be throwing me off? should I have each cell that I'm idleing in at 0 to set the base timming? Than go from there?

I have a friend that is good with tuning in general. He took a look at everything for me today and got it idling and accelerating much smoother. Keep in mind i have been shifting at around 2200 rpm because of my knock problem.

He is telling me that he has set up timming maps in the past with larger numbers at lower rpm's till the engine builds boost than lower the numbers when the engine starts to make power. My tables are just the opposit, lower numbers at first building up to higher numbers.

For right now I need to know the correct procedure to set my baseline timming.

 

to do the timing with a light, you should set the fixed timing (in the spark options, at the bottom past the spark angle and cranking settings, not the spark table) to 5* ATDC (i am pretty sure that this would be a value of -5, since positive seems to refer to advance), and then just aim for the first mark. In general you want high advance at high RPMs, low pressures, falling off towards low advances (or 0 or less at idle) at low RPM high loads. most of my low-speed, high load area is filled with single digit numbers (but i have tables up to 210 kpa since i've seen boost spikes close to that high, and would eventually like to run 10 or 12 psi), and at idle i'm running -5 (5 atdc, idles nice and smooth). full load, high RPMs im around 10 to 12* BTDC, to stay on the conservative side since i know my IAT's are hot (TMIC without a turbo hood, working on an FMIC)

 

Am I going to use 5* or -5 in the fixed angle field? It is set to -10 now.

 

yea, -5 i believe. positive numbers refer to BTDC, negative is ATDC IIRC

 

I did exactilly that and It threw off everything rendering the car undrivable now..

The little bit I did drive it I could lace into the throttle hard and it didnt ping at all. Now the exhaust pops like it's lean under acceleration.

I need to get a wide band O2 ASAP!

Anyone want to buy a HeliMax AXE-CP micro electric heli? lol!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=250144788922

 

thats possible, how far "off" would you estimate the timing was before? The timing will affect AFR and how much fuel is necessary to run the engine properly and smoothly, so your fuel map will need to be changed. Pops from the exhaust usually mean that you are rich and the unburned fuel is burning in the exhaust or when it hits fresh air after the muffler. Lean generally results in surging/bucking under load.

If you're going to be tuning an engine as sensitive to detonation as a rotary, I'd really suggest a wideband. For the price, the LC-1 seems good, although i'm having trouble connecting my computer to mine at the moment. It still works and is giving signal to the megasquirt tho, which is the important part.

 

I would say 10 degrees advanced. I have noticed my coolent temp drop at idle by 11 degrees so I think I'm headed in the right direction. I'm not going to mess with the car any more till I get the wide band O2, My question is now what controller to get? I know there are settings for the LC-1 and the LM-1 for megatune but what Is my best bet?

 

You should only be setting the fixed-angle field to -5 for use with a timing light to check the timing. Once you're sure the timing is right, you'll want to set that fixed angle back to -10.

You weren't driving around with fixed angle at -5 were you?

Ken

 

I only drove it about two houses down the road when I decided something was radicly wrong..

I'll try setting it back to -10 in the morning.

 

Get the lc-1 not the lm-1!!!!I have the lm-1 i had ground offset issue's, the lm-1 is a data logger and wb02 controller, it is portable for going from one car to the next.With my lm-1 the 02 signal would bounce around (with the engine off) not giving me a steady reading unless i used a out side power source (external battery/jumper box) how ever there is a fix for this search for my name on this forum look for bouncing 02 signal!Innovative stated that the lc-1 should not have this problem i have not had time to install my lc-1 to check this out yet!

 

Cool, thanks for the heads up twister. Scince my last post I set my timming at -5 and reset it back to -10. It runs much much, much better! I have been driving it back and forth to work with no problems. I think I have some lean/rich cells but I dont push it till I either get it on a dyno and have someone tune it or get the wideband and give it a crack myself.

 

Good news!

Ken