Megasquirt Ran last night, now no pulsewidth and no spark
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Ran last night, now no pulsewidth and no spark
Car ran great last night, went to a local meet.
Now it's morning, and it won't start.
Megatune shows RPM and TPS and every value, but timing and pulsewidth stick at zero.
Maybe something came loose?
I'm checking all the wiring now, but I don't see anything that has come undone.
what could cause both of these to just stop hours after running fine?
Stuck until I figure this out!
Now it's morning, and it won't start.
Megatune shows RPM and TPS and every value, but timing and pulsewidth stick at zero.
Maybe something came loose?
I'm checking all the wiring now, but I don't see anything that has come undone.
what could cause both of these to just stop hours after running fine?
Stuck until I figure this out!
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Double checked everything
12v @ injectors, coils, etc
all the connectors, grounds, etc
flashed the firmware, reloaded my settings and it started right up
Just put about 300mi on the car,
thanks for the quick response Ken.
-Marc
12v @ injectors, coils, etc
all the connectors, grounds, etc
flashed the firmware, reloaded my settings and it started right up
Just put about 300mi on the car,
thanks for the quick response Ken.
-Marc
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looks like got lucky trying to start it again the first time.
I'm uploading my MSQ, please disregard my not so smooth fuel map, it's still a work in progress,
a lot of it is mostly highway/daily driving stuff, had planned on going to a tuner this upcoming week.
With these settings, the car never had a problem starting or idling or running on the highway or around town
and a lot of values are from Aaron Cake's write up
In Megatune and Tunerstudio Pulse Width stays at 0 and Timing stays at 0 during cranking.
Flashed again hoping that it would fix things and start again, atleast to limp home.
After this flash, my RPM's were essentially "flashing" on and off.
cranking speed, nothing, cranking speed, nothing, etc
and as the ecu saw rpm the Pulse Width and Timing #'s were actually showing, and then flashing back to zero as the ecu saw no rpm
CurrentTune.zip
I'm uploading my MSQ, please disregard my not so smooth fuel map, it's still a work in progress,
a lot of it is mostly highway/daily driving stuff, had planned on going to a tuner this upcoming week.
With these settings, the car never had a problem starting or idling or running on the highway or around town
and a lot of values are from Aaron Cake's write up
In Megatune and Tunerstudio Pulse Width stays at 0 and Timing stays at 0 during cranking.
Flashed again hoping that it would fix things and start again, atleast to limp home.
After this flash, my RPM's were essentially "flashing" on and off.
cranking speed, nothing, cranking speed, nothing, etc
and as the ecu saw rpm the Pulse Width and Timing #'s were actually showing, and then flashing back to zero as the ecu saw no rpm
CurrentTune.zip
#5
MegaSquirt Mod
Are you sure you're not having a wiring problem?
RPM's flashing on and off and no-start situation points to wiring issues either with your grounds or with the CAS, especially if you didn't change any settings.
Ken
RPM's flashing on and off and no-start situation points to wiring issues either with your grounds or with the CAS, especially if you didn't change any settings.
Ken
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Ken,
I just looked a bit more closely over my boards with my magnifying glass. Turns out I have a solder on my VR daughter (Jean Belanger) board that has pulled the conductor around the hole out, it was just barely above the board. So maybe the vibrations pulled it clean off? I just soldered it back in but I think the board is damaged, I'm going to order another one. I thinking this could have just wiggled loose and back together again the first time I had issues. RPMs weren't flashing initially though, so I don't know if that makes sense, since I saw what I normally saw in TunerStudio for cranking rpm, and a re-flashing enabled my car to start right up.
-Marc
I just looked a bit more closely over my boards with my magnifying glass. Turns out I have a solder on my VR daughter (Jean Belanger) board that has pulled the conductor around the hole out, it was just barely above the board. So maybe the vibrations pulled it clean off? I just soldered it back in but I think the board is damaged, I'm going to order another one. I thinking this could have just wiggled loose and back together again the first time I had issues. RPMs weren't flashing initially though, so I don't know if that makes sense, since I saw what I normally saw in TunerStudio for cranking rpm, and a re-flashing enabled my car to start right up.
-Marc
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Update:
Talked with Matt from DIY autotune and we came to the issue being a faulty VR conditioner (cheap board), I bought the Zeal daughter board and installed it, changed nothing else, same connections as my previous one has. Plugged it into the Harness, nothing. Found 12v at S12, 5v at S5, Good Ground at SG and Proto Ground, ran "detect device" with Tunerstudio and the megasquirt was unresponsive, no lights on the LEDs either, no fuel pump.
As this is going on I smell some smoke and see it rising from under my UIM, I quickly cut the power and tear it off, to find the Resistors on my two Low-z injectors very very hot, melting the electrical tape. Injectors weren't even warm.
I'm stumped guys. I can't imagine I bridged anything, since I didn't do many(read 5) solders on it.
Any help is appreciated.
-Marc
Talked with Matt from DIY autotune and we came to the issue being a faulty VR conditioner (cheap board), I bought the Zeal daughter board and installed it, changed nothing else, same connections as my previous one has. Plugged it into the Harness, nothing. Found 12v at S12, 5v at S5, Good Ground at SG and Proto Ground, ran "detect device" with Tunerstudio and the megasquirt was unresponsive, no lights on the LEDs either, no fuel pump.
As this is going on I smell some smoke and see it rising from under my UIM, I quickly cut the power and tear it off, to find the Resistors on my two Low-z injectors very very hot, melting the electrical tape. Injectors weren't even warm.
I'm stumped guys. I can't imagine I bridged anything, since I didn't do many(read 5) solders on it.
Any help is appreciated.
-Marc
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Ken,
Spent some time going through the board, F1 was blown, the power conditioner is fine, as soon as F1 is bridged voltage on s12 plummets. I've looked through some different parts, I've spent a few hours digging through components, under the power conditioner section by the DB9 and heatsink some of the traces around the pads where the components mount to are expanded and deformed, so I'm thinking the board has some damage to it.
-Marc
Spent some time going through the board, F1 was blown, the power conditioner is fine, as soon as F1 is bridged voltage on s12 plummets. I've looked through some different parts, I've spent a few hours digging through components, under the power conditioner section by the DB9 and heatsink some of the traces around the pads where the components mount to are expanded and deformed, so I'm thinking the board has some damage to it.
-Marc
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alexdimen
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10-23-15 01:50 PM
car, detect, determine, device, great, ground, megasquirt, pulse, pulsewidth, ran, reading, spark, tunerstudio, width