After about 3 hours of searching, I cannot find a solution to my problem. I have a version 3.0 MS I using the modified CAS setup. I flashed the ECU with 029q2, set all the parameters according to the megasquirt FAQ, and wired up the harness accordingly. I also have the potentiometers turned fully counter-clockwise (they click).
Here's what happens:
With the ignition switch on, all 3 LED's light up and stay lit; The coolant sensor, air temp sensor, TPS, and MAP sensor all function; but I NEVER ONCE get any type of signal for engine rpm or Duty cycle.
Once the ignition is switched on, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and the pulse width gauge momentarily displays 10.00 mSec as well as the spark advance momentarily reading -5. After those 2-3 seconds, the pulse width reads 0.00, and the spark advance reads -3.
When I tried spinning the CAS, nothing happened. No spark, no fuel, and no rpm whatsoever, even if it's spun during those first 2-3 seconds I talked about.
PIN 24 is wired directly to the NE+ wire in the CAS (red wire), and one of the grounds coming straight out of the ECU ( I think it's PIN 7) is wired to the NE- wire in the CAS (white wire). I checked the wire at the CAS and it's definitely grounded. The braided wire shielding is connected ONLY at 1 end and is grounded to the chassis next to the ECU. All of the other wiring is correct as well, and the harness is completely taped up so that there are no stray wires or shorts anywhere.
Also, With the ignition ON, the coils and injectors maintain a constant 12+ volts.

I read most of the threads I could find when I searched for several variations of fuel and spark problems that are listed in the MS forum. After reading them, I realized that nothing I read had helped.
The only thing that I can realistically come up with is that it's in the software or the settings.
The ECU was also thoroughly checked at DIY Autotune after I built it and everything functioned correctly.

What am I missing???

 

IS your CAS even working? can you post your settings?

 

Yes, the CAS is definitely working. My car currently runs on the stock ECU and I have the Megasquirt hooked up so that I can switch wires when I want to run the megasquirt. I checked resistance on the CAS and it's good. I also hooked the megasquirt up to my current CAS and still, nothing. No signal at all. I'm not sure of all the settings that you would like to see, so I will post up what I can in the following post.

 

I figured that this info here is what you needed to see:


Power cycles after changes:

Choose one code type---- everything off except for wheel decoder--> GENERIC WHEEL
Choose input output pins to use----
FIDLE function--> idle control
LED 17 (D14) function: spark output A
LED 18 (D15) function: spark output C
LED 19 (D16) function: spark output B
Multiplex ignition?: Normal
X2 (JS0) function: fan control
X4 (JS2) function: Output 1
output3/spark D: Output 3
pin 10 shift/ Spark E: Shiftlight
knock in/ spark F: Knock input


Power cycle after changes:

Wheel decoder base teeth: 12
2nd trigger enable: 2nd trigger
2nd trigger active edge: falling (like IRQ)
2nd trigger and missing teeth: no missing
Missing teeth: nothing (it's blank)
Trig pos A: 1
Trig return pos A: 3
Trig pos B: 7
Trig return pos B: 9
(C, D, E, and F below that are all 0)
Dual Dizzy mode (see F1): normal
Wheel decoder routine: 025 style



Tacho output pin:

Tacho output pin: OFF
Normal or half speed: normal


Trigger angle: 60

Wheel stimulator: OFF

 

When you had all those pictures up in the Megasquirt FAQ section, I copied them all exactly and put in everything I could into the 029q2 software. Anything extra, I just basically let go.

 

So you have a modded CAS? with 2 teeth cut out?

If that's the case, you don't want to be running with 2nd trigger turned on... turn it off, and select missing tooth, and 024s9 for the decoder.

Also, how does your car run on the stock ECU with 2 teeth missing from the CAS (assuming that's what you did)?

Ken

 

Yes, it's a modified CAS with 2 teeth cut out of it. The modified CAS I have is off of a low mileage imported Cosmo 13B-RE and the CAS was in excellent condition. I modified that one. What I meant about the other CAS is that it was the one I'm currenly using in my car and I said that I tried just temporarily hooking it up to see if I got an RPM signal from that one either. Neither CAS responded.
I will turn 2nd trigger off, but when you mention selecting missing tooth, I assume that I should choose the option of -1 instead of -2. Those are the only 2 options. I will also select the wheel decoder as 024s9. I will let you know how it works out.

 

yeah, you want -1...

2nd trigger won't work if you don't have the G sensor hooked up through a VR signal conditioner and a 1k resistor to pin 11 on U1, and have no missing teeth.

 

Well, I did what you said and unfortunately I still have no signal. In the configurator menu, I have 029q activated (the whole time), but when activated 3 of the other versions in there, namely 024c, 027c ,and 029c, I noticed that the rpm gauge turns yellow and reads "2". Unfortunately it still doesn't pick up any signal. In 029q, the backgrounds for rpm and pulsewidth stay red. Well, pulsewidth is white and reads 10.00 for a few seconds after it turns on, but then it goes to "0" and turns red.

 

Just to clarify, when I hook up the megasquirt and hook the harness up in the engine bay to all the sensors, injectors, ignitors, etc., I also put in the modified CAS. When I'm done toying with the MS, I unhook the MS and the harness and reconnect the stock RX7 wire harness to everything I unhooked and revert back to the stock ECU.

 

then you have a problem with the CAS (broken maybe?), or a wiring problem (hooked up the CAS to the wrong wires on the MS, or got the polarity backwards).

If you have it set up for missing tooth with no second trigger, the wiring is right, and the CAS is working, you should have rpms, spark, and fuel.

Did you remember to jumper VRIN to TACHSELECT, and VROUTINV to TSEL?

 

My mistake is clear as day now, I never jumpered VRIN to TACHSELECT!! I'm going to go ahead and solder that now. Thank you!!

 

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!
That was the problem the ENTIRE time!!!
When I hooked up the MS and set the CAS on exactly the 3rd tooth, the car started immediately!! It ran really well and I was actually able to go and drive it around for like 5 minutes and came back. While cruising, it runs smoothly and stumbles here and there a little bit and still injects on decel and backfires a bit, but I was able to run it up to like 8000+ rpm's without any bad hiccups!! I need to tune the timing and fuel, but overall she runs great!!! It idles a little high for now (like 1200-1500 rpms), and shuts off when the idle starts to really drop, but always starts right up!! Alot of the times, it will hold an idle relatively steady, but here and there it stalls itself out. This ECU started up wayyy easier, and ran better than my 2 previous Microtech installs!! Thanks Muy!!

 

no problem... The biggest things to remember with the MS is to be patient, double-check ALL your work, check it on the stim, and don't give up!

 

Thanks soo much for your help!!