muythaibxr

Try setting it as a cam wheel with 24 teeth.

Ken

seanyt

I tryed that but nothing .
with a basic mm i checked jp4 for voltage and spinning the cas i was getting up to .5- .6 v depending how fast i span.
and doing the same on tsel i was getting up to 4-5v. I presume this is because there are far more teeth.
the voltage on both would always drop to about .12 there abouts.

do i need to run power from d9 to the ms2 board or is that just for stepper motor idle.
and do i need to join jp4 to js10(ign) for the input.

i have also put a 1k resister before the vr2 output goes into jp4.

i will have a new u7 ic tomorrow if that is the problem replacing mc34072
with lm2904 unsure if this will solve anything but every little helps's.

muythaibxr

Did you reboot the MS after setting it to a 24-tooth cam wheel? I'm sure this is the correct setting to use with ms2/extra (I wrote the code to support it, and that's the setting I used the last time I fired up a rotary on ms2/extra).

You have to reset the MS after making changes to wheel decoder config because those configuration options are used to calculate other variables that are used for ignition, and are only calculated once at boot time because it could cause problems to calculate them while the engine is running (slow calcs, and numbers changing that really shouldn't while the engine is running).

The voltages you are seeing don't seem too far off either.

You should run power for the stepper chip just because it'll stay cooler.

Ken

seanyt

Okay reset it when i tryed the 24/ cam setting.
put in the new lm2904 chip still no differnece double checked wiring.
checked voltage from cas again.

played with a reboot and download firmware again etc etc

Then i removed the second vr input from jp4 and moved it to pin17(js10)

and tada rpm input. set the tooth config to 12/ crank for a better rpm read-out.
and now it time to put it all back in the car and actually try get it to start.
also am using the new alpha code finding it a bit better to use.

thanks for all the help and no doubt ill be back on to you with some other questions.

muythaibxr

What version of the firmware are you using?

You should definitely be using 24 tooth cam mounted. That'll internally set it to 12 teeth with an extra tooth every 12 teeth.

JS10 is only the 2nd trigger input on version 2 or higher.

Ken

seanyt

I've been messing with this all weekend. setting the timing etc.

i was useing ms2/extra beta the latest release.
but am going to revert back to ms2/extra 1.0.2 maybe more stable.

have been using 12 tooth crank setting all weekend.

and it's really trying to start kicking from crank to ase wue every now and again.
the engine was just rebuilt so i'm guessing it aint gona be easy to start.

also have to enter the proper values for the the coolant and air sensor so reading a high temp so obvioulsy gona be out on the ase wue map's
Battery is on charge so going at it again tom nite.

very glad it did spark because it confirmed injectors and coil's are working i'm running 4g63 560cc injectors and fd coil pack's & ignitor,
with a street port so nothing to major when it comes to actually mapping it

muythaibxr

Again, if I were you, I'd set it to 24 tooth cam mounted, as that is closer to being more accurate (CAS spins half e-shaft speed, just like cam does on piston engine).

If you set it to 12 tooth + extra it'll internally configure 24 teeth, so it probably won't work right.

EDIT: Just took a look at the beta, and it was broken for 2nd trigger with no missing teeth. I've fixed it now, and that fix will be in the next beta.

The 1.0.2 release has it working properly, and should be set to 24 teeth no missing cam mounted with 2nd trigger, and the second trigger should be wired to JP4.

Ken

seanyt

Okay some messing around it's now set 24 tooth 2 missing and vr2 on jp4
it's now getting a rpm signal and firing the coil's. on v1.0.2

also found i had t1 t2 swapped around because i was unsure using the fd ignitor.
it then idles for me for about 4sec's at about 7-800rpm.

going to give it a go tommorow with a fresh battery.
just because it's rebuilt it kinda relies on the atf trick so taking a bit longer than usual but happy with the progress today.

How are you getting on with your's have you got your's idling and everything for you?

muythaibxr

Mine idled fine, but I've not fixed any of the mechanical problems. Work's been nuts lately, and I've had no time for anything aside from work, and writing ms2/extra code.

As soon as I have time to pick up the BAC valve from tofuball, and put that on, and fix any other vacuum leaks I have, I'll be running the ms2 on my rx7.

That said, we can have pretty much any S4 megasquirted with ms2 or ms1 in 15 minutes, and have done so on many occasions, so the problem isn't with the MS, it's just that I don't have a good test car right now.

If you got it to idle at all you are probably ready to start tuning fuel to keep it running.. it probably died when afterstart enrichments turned off, so you probably want to increase req_fuel until it stays running.

Ken

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

just saw that you mentioned using ATF in the engine ... Out of curiousity, do you know that eats away at the oil seals? Well not really eat away but actually make them gummy. You're better off using 2 stroke oil for a bike or something simillar. A number of people use that to premix too, its alot safer and better.

seanyt

Got back to the car today. barely wants to rev but i reckon it my setting's holding it back i have all the acceleration wizard settings mirrored to the faq,
my rx has dual exhausts with no o2 so i'm unsure were to mount my wideband. do i run dual o2 or tap into just one of the pipes?

because there is no o2 input and the ecu thinks it is running to rich, could this be a reason the car will not hold idle.

it will fire on the cranking pulse set and somewhat run on the ase wue but no matter what adjustments are made it will not hold idle and even if i adjust the
reqfuel.

Thanks again in advance i've also changed to using fully synthetic 2stroke but i'm running 100:1 premix as is.

muythaibxr

How high did you go with reqfuel? Have you verified good timing?

Ken

seanyt

Yeah timing is sport on went from 7.9 upto 9.6.
started playing with the ve table today and got it to idle.

but after about 4-5 hours playing with dwell settings injector settings and setting the tps and throttle stop the car will not idle over 6-700.
after a few min's on idle it pop and bangs and i've tryed leaning it out but just won't hold idle then

i then started with trying to rev off idle and all i'm getting is pop's and bang's but will not rev up off idle. i thought the trailing plugs were wrong way round or stopping it so swapped them round then disconnected them but finding all this very strange the car will just not rev or increase in rev's whatso ever and i have tryed many different acceleration wizard setting's

i know using the ms2/extra is new but any help from anybody would be most gratefull

muythaibxr

Pops and bangs are usually because of fuel being WAY off, or ignition timing being off.

To set the timing right, set a Fixed timing of -5, and then adjust the CAS using a timing light until the yellow mark lines up with the prong on the engine.

seanyt

ive set the timing as you said.
leaned the car out so a decent amount.
no popping anymore.
also changed to alpha-n to get a better base to start with.

same problems as usual car will not idle over 6-800 if i open the throttle and try rev it pop and sounds like missing up to 1200rpm.

ecu, ignitor,coil-packs could be breaking up i'm looking into it.

for fd trailing what are the pinouts for t1, t2 and leading coil-packs.
or what led triggers what coil.

It began to not spark what so ever after a while changed coil pack wires around but no difference so i reckon it's the fd ignitor.

also during cranking what coil-packs are trigger just leading or trailing also?

cranking dwell is 5.0

standard dwell setting
Max dwell duration (ms)3.1 played with 2.6
acceleration comp (ms) 1
max spark duration .5

dwell duty 50%
dwell time 1.0

How is your project going have you began mapping after idle yet?

muythaibxr

I've actually had an FC with stock ignition on the dyno without any problems... on an otherwise stock S4 NA, we gained 20-30 on low-end torque. The dyno operator wouldn't let us go above 5700 rpms though. Not sure why... HP was still climbing when we got off of it.

For FD-style trailing... LED D14 is leading, D16 is T1, and D15 is T2.

Ken

H4Inf

Hey Ken - easy question!

When you say version 2 or higher, are you referring to the CPU version, board version or firmware version?

We're wondering where to connect VR2OUT on a MS2 CPU V3Board running MS2/Extra 1.0.2.

Having done a lot of reading, we have come up with the following options:
-Should it be connected to JP4 directly which is on the MS2 CPU
-Should it go to JS10 (CPU Pin 17)
-Should it go to CPU PIN 11 (which I suspect is for MS1 CPU)

Many thanks!!!

Paul.

muythaibxr

I'm referring to the firmware. MS2/extra 2.0 will be out within the next few weeks. Right now we're beta-testing it.

For ms2/extra 1.0.2, you want JP4, For MS2/extra 2.0-beta you want JS10, for MS1/extra you want CPU pin 11.

Ken

The Griffin

Just out of idle curiousity, JS10 on V3 board is JP1/5 on a V2.2 board correct (both of those were "knock in" designated on MS1-extra)? Do you still have to add the 1K resistor inline as is the case in MS1-E going directly to Pin11 of the CPU?

muythaibxr

Sounds right.

yes.

Ken