custom13B

Before I desolder a 14 pin chip I will use this d card as target practice. That is soo great that all the D card info disappeared. Im thinking about removing the D card alltogether and cutting 2 teeth out of the CAS. Should have done that the first time to simplify things. I am not buying any more shade tree boards. I just have to find info on restabbing the CAS with the teeth removed and where the shielded CAS wire goes on the db37 connector. If any jumpers need to be added etc etc. I just tried the 1,3,7,9 settings with no luck. I also adjusted the pot very slowly while cranking to watch that LED to blink...nothing. Im thinking this ckt is shot. So to keep things simple and not order anything and wait for days I think the CAS 2 tooth removal is worth a shot. I have a die grinder and can easily remove too opposing teeth. Im just confused on the restabbing procedure and where the shielded cable goes on the DB37. Then if I get spark I can celebrate and take a pic of this daughter card with a shot gun blast thru it! Then I can light the daughter card on fire and launch it to MD with a bottle rocket. I feel better already...lol.

custom13B

200 posts of nothing but problems now. Muy I see a huge market for your plug n play system.

Rex4Life

This may help. The file this was in is dated 8-29-05, not sure if any changes happend since (I don't even have one). Hope it helps.

Connections and Wiring
----------------------

+5V Power and GND
+5V - +5 Volt from MS (Powers: Seq. Shift Lights, Nitrous Control, Launch Control, Dual VR Conditioning, and BOTH Table Switching)
GND - Ground for whole board

Dual VR Conditioning Circuit
T1 - VR Sensor #1 Input (To Base wheel - i.e. 24pin Wheel in rotary)
T5 - VR Sensor #1 GND /w Load Resistor
T3 - Conditioned Output for VR Sensor #1 [Pin 6 of U4 on MS Board]

T2 - VR Sensor #2 Input (To Reset wheel - i.e 2pin wheel in rotary)
T6 - VR Sensor #2 GND /w Load Resistor
T4 - Conditioned Output for VR Sensor #2 [Pin 11 on U1 on MS Board]

Sequential Shift Lights
T7 - Input #1 [Pin 11 of U1 on MS Board]
T8 - Input #2 [Pin 10 of U1 on MS Board]
T9 - Upper Limit LEDs
T10 - Med Limit LEDs
T11 - Lower Limit LEDs

Outputs 1 to 4
T12 - Output 1 [X4 Jumper on MS Board]
T13 - Output 2 [X5 Jumper on MS Board]
T14 - Output 3 [Top Leg of R14 on MS Board]
T15 - Output 4 [Right Leg of R26 on MS Board]
T16 - Output 1 Relay
T17 - Output 2 Relay
T18 - Output 3 Relay
T19 - Output 4 Relay
T20 - +12V Power for Relays [To Battery]

Table Switching (Active High Input)
T21 - 12V Switched from Clutch Switch or Knock Circuit
T22 - Output [JP1 pin 6 on MS Board]

Table Switching (Active Low Input)
S1 - Active Low Switch Input [Toggle Switch to GND]
T38 - Output [JP1 pin 6 on MS Board]

Boost Control
T23 - Output [X4 Jumper on MS Board]
T24 - To Fast Acting Solonoid Valve

Water Injection Control
T25 - Output [X3 Jumper on MS Board]
T26 - To Fast Acting Solonoid Valve
*You must use one of the outputs in the Output circuits to X2 Jumper on the MS Board

Nitrous Control
T27 - Output [Pin 6 of JP1 on MS Board]
T28 - Anti-Lag Switch
T29 - Relay 1 Contact
T30 - Nitrous/Fuel Solenoids
*You must use one of the outputs in the Output circuits to X3 Jumper on the MS Board

EGT Logging
T31 - To K Type Sensor (Alumel [Red])
T32 - Cromel (Yellow)
T33 - Output [To X6 Jumper on MS Board]

2nd O2 Sensor Input
T34 - Output [Jumper X6 or X7 on MS Board]
T35 - Input from 2nd O2 Sensor

Launch Control
T36 - Output [Pin 4 of JP1 on MS Board]
T37 - Clutch Switch (+12V Switch)

The Griffin

This is from error* on page 3 of his D card sales pitch.https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-forum-153/msns_extra-daughter-board-available-soon-aimed-rotary-application-users-458179/page3/
That is dated 10-26-05 and in the same post he attaches a notepad attachment that is different to the above also.



I'm a little confused .I'm just in the process of figuring out how to wire the D card up and finding conflicting info.Muythaibxr, can you go through the correct way to wire the ignition to the error* D card...cheers

custom13B

Yea Im not too impressed. Each document conflicts the other. Guess were on our own to figure out the wiring. I will try and read ohms with the board populated and determine the 82k resistor lm1815 ckt. I wouldnt suggest buying this board I would personally cut two teeth off the CAS if I were to do this again. Just my opinion,Shawn

muythaibxr

The board works fine if everything is set up properly... I've got 2 in working installs right now, and will soon have several more. I have gotten in touch with error* to get him to repost his circuit diagrams and such, so I'll confirm the wiring with the instructions above later.

The conflicting info is because error* messed up on his original document... I edited his post where he messed up, so it's correct.

custom13B

Too late but thanks anyways. I ditched the daughter card and am going with cutting 2 teeth off the CAS method at least when I get it set up right theres nothing to break. Thats why I decided to do this. The other reason is if theres a problem in the future I know its within the MS itself. Im working on posting pics now,wish me luck.

custom13B

Hope this worked its a picture of the top view of the Daughter board.

muythaibxr

err.... looks like it got a bit hot

custom13B

And heres the car. Kidding it was a parts car.

custom13B

The board had a accident my20 ton hydralic press accidently crushed it. And I have no regrets either.

custom13B

The car this summer before I repainted it.

muythaibxr

if it makes you feel better, my rx7's stock wiring harness is a POS... completely toast.

The stock ECU won't even start the car... and it screwed up my spark plugs... But the last time I started it on the MS, as soon as I got rid of cranking tach spikes, it fired right up no problem...

I won't be able to tune my rx7 probably until I kill the current stock harness and get a new one... I'm sticking with stock harnesses so I can test the plug 'n play units before shipping.

Oh well, I only tried to start it on the stock computer so I could take it for state inspection... but now since my MS is more reliable and doesn't kill my spark plugs, I'm going to replace the harness, and get it started on the MS before starting it on the stock ECU...

custom13B

Well I feel a lil better after the press incident. I've set a time limit for the MS if it dosnt spark again its next. On the 2 tooth removal thing...do you only hook the base 24 pin wheel to the bd37 and do nothing with the reset wheel? Also what changes need to be done..like the VR jumpers etc etc? I changed the trigger settings to 1,3,7 and 9. I also changed it to a 12-1 wheel and set it for missing tooth. I restabbed it using the yellow pulley mark and 3 teeth off from the first missing tooth. I can restab as needed later. Thanks Muy.

custom13B

Also I removed the stock harness it was crusty and had cracked insulation in many places. I didnt trust it basically my car is new and I didnt want a 20yr old harness causing problems. I made a complete new harness with relays,really wasnt that hard. The perk is now I know what every wire does and where every connection is. I think I mentioned earlier Im a commercial electrician so I had sheilded cable and lots of wire,heat shrink,crimp terminals on hand.

muythaibxr

I have no problem making a new harness... but since it's the test car for plug 'n play units, I need to test with a completely stock setup. I don't want to take any chances that my rebuilt "better" harness would change some small detail that would make a difference.... Tofuball already has another harness for me so I'll just go over it and test it before putting it in. I could just megasquirt it and be done with it, but it also still has to pass MD state inspection since I just bought it... (I bought it specifically to test plug 'n play units...) It won't pass state inspection on a full standalone ECU with most of the emissions crap taken out and a non-stock harness....

For the CAS stab.... yeah, you only hook the 24 tooth (Ne) wheel sensor to the db 37... you can cut any 2 teeth opposite of each other from the CAS, and when you line it up and stab it with the tooth that's 3 teeth to the right of the missing tooth lined up with the VR sensor. It'll need a slight readjustment once you start it, but very slight.

custom13B

Thanks Muy,
I already modified my CAS and stabbed it..found a old post of yours. I changed the trigger setting to 1,3,7 and 9 and set it for missing tooth. Anything else have to be changed? Also on the 12-1 wheel its actually a 11-1 as you remove 2 teeth..is that a problem? I still have no spark..next I'll put a dizzy back in if this dosnt solve the issue.

custom13B

Muy,
I had no doubts your more than capeable of building a custom harness,I was just telling you so you completely understand my arrangement. I cant sleep and have a light day tomorrow,back to the garage.

muythaibxr

12 is the number of base teeth, so you want to set it to 12-1... it's not a problem.

You still need to post an MSQ and logs... I wouldn't go to a distributor yet ... Let us get a look at all the settings and stuff first...

It seems possible also that your processor is faulty....

Anyway, you've got a PM.

Ken

custom13B

Muy,
Im wondering worse case scenario if the processor is bad how much do they cost to replace? I have the HC908 chip,but you already knew that. Thank you,Shawn

muythaibxr

I think it's $12 for the chip, and like $5 or 6 for shipping.

custom13B

Ok Im confused.
Muy, I was beginning to think my main chip was bad. Today I tried starting the car just for the hell of it and it had spark again. It almost ran but my timing is way off so it wouldnt. The CAS is stabbed way different with the 2 tooth removal. Im working on that. But I played around for a while and then no spark again. Im thinking if the main chip was bad it wouldnt work at all...am I correct thinking this? Im also considering buying another used CAS . What are your thoughts on this?, Shawn

muythaibxr

There are so many things that could be wrong... it could be something in the MS, it could be the CAS (unlikely but possible), it could be the wiring, could be the ignitor, it could be the coil....

If the main chip is bad, there could be some intermittant problem that's causing it... If you don't have any more advanced testing equipment, it'll be hard to tell... An oscilloscope would be very useful in telling what and where the problem is. In fact, I do all my bench testing with an oscilloscope.

pmrobert

Shawn, go you have or, have access to, an oscilloscope? You certainly have a very fundamental problem, something as simple as an inconsistent CAS signal, etc. You certainly sound as if you have the harness construction details and structure down solid and have done all the usual actions (reflow, flux wash, etc) to the PCB.

-Mike (don't forget the fuel fouled plugs possibility!!!!)

custom13B

No I dont have access to a scope. I have a friend with one and will be sending it to him asap. I just havnt had time lately. Its definately not fuel fouled plugs I've checked them often and replaced them several times now. This problem is one of 2 things.... a bad CAS which I think is unlikely...or a problem inside the MS itself. The daughtercard is out of the picture now. I really appreciate everyones time on this one but I think the MS needs to be bench tested before I can go any further. Tonight it has spark...thats 2 days in a row thats a record! Until I get this thing bench tested with a scope Im afraid Im stuck,Shawn