I am using Crisco as an assembly lube (you can see it in the pic). It holds the seals onto the rotors when flipping upside down better than Vaseline and the like. I wanted something besides Crisco in the coolant seal grooves that would be more permanent and would help to fill the little pits in the housings.

 

crisco?!?!?!?!?!??

 

Yep. it's a popular engine builder's grease. It can be packed into a syringe and dispensed more easily into grooves, crevices, etc.

 

I can see your point there, i just dont like the mess it makes during tear down. Plus I'm using the RA reusable seals so i dont want anything holding them in to possibly break them.

 

Your point is good also. When it comes to a modded engine that has reusable seals, I wouldn't want to risk stretching them or breaking them during teardown either. The one I'm building is completely stock, so longevity is the main goal with the Hylomar. The bottom of the seal grooves were pitted in some areas.

 

I think these little tips and tricks confuse people and start talk in the neighborhood about each engine builder. I have some guys that will only have me build there engine because of some things i do and others that avoid me like the plague because they dont like some of the stuff I do.

I never guarantee mileage because I almost always use used parts but I stay within spec from the FSM, some guys want new stuff and think i have this stuff laying around and when i tell them they need to shed cash they get mad.

Almost every engine I build is free assembly because I do it for the labor of love. And if an engine pops during break-in what can you say unless you gave me next to new parts to start with?

Another guy in town charges a start of $600 for assembly and is very picky about what parts he uses, I respect him, and his engines last longer. What can I say? Am i a hack?

 

well i just got last weekends project done this weekend. Now i need to start with wires..

 

Close to finishing my MS mounting. Everything in the engine bay is done. Just need to clean up all of the wires a bit and re-install the cover plate.

 

^^ Nicely done GP....that white wire reminds me of British cars. You know why the Brits drink warm beer don't you?
Because their refrigerators were wired by Lucas haha.

 

My fuel system is pretty done

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MFQLTEf9ic

 

AND NO I WON'T PUT A 13B IN IT!!!!

 

lookin good there jobro please let me know how it runs ive been wantin to do the same setup for awhile. props

 

it runs poorly really need some assistance in the tune department!

 

I got it to run today, i ran into a small problem for some reason my main relay wont kick on giving main power to the coil packs. I hot wired it for the time being. Check out the short video i took. "and yes, i know the belts are way lose"
http://jaxrotaries.com/rx7/MVI_4352.AVI

 

Sounds like a very healthy motor in the Porting Department. I just got my customer's engine running last night after all of the small problems with plastic parts breaking, leaking pulsation damper, etc. There are always a handful of little bastard problems that crop up during a rebuild/install, ya know?

 

I hear ya, I'm having the same problems right now, my oil cooler lines are now leaking from the raised oil pressure, my coolant cap is leaking, I forgot I needed new front breaks, etc...

I took a better video today check it out!
http://jaxrotaries.com/rx7/the%20trueth.AVI

 

I had to add my pictures, My home boys and I hit it hard today and got the front end back together! What do you all think about my megasquirt sticker?

 

I forgot about this till i went back and read it, I wanted to show how I did the oil return. And yes, my oil meter is fixed wide open.

 

Much better video. I like it. Good idea for the oil return when using an NA housing. I don't need a tII front cover, but I do need a good s4 TII front iron. Your car looks great! We need to compile several videos eventually into a sticky thread for those who are new to MS or are considering going standalone, would you agree?

 

That would be cool

 

nice job quasar i like it let us know how it drives when you get her tuned up

 

has any one combined megasquirt and a carb.,,,,?i do a few scca road race cars and would like to add a programable ignition to better fine tune the motor to my Pi pipe expansion chamber thus the idea was born to add a tps sensor to a weber carb connect th e map sensor and water temp sensor but just run the ignition side of the megasquirt running a moddied 2nd gen crank angle sensor.... any one have some ideas?

 

i have found from tunning the 2nd gen test car running my Pi pipe that a change in the timing split between leading and trailing can be worth 3-6 hp and a change in total advance worth anoughter 3-5 .i really think the megasquirt wil be the way to go ....plus i hate electramotive

 

Hey Gross Polluter....are you wiring up your engine bay???....any pics of that???

 

Yes, I had removed the stock engine harness and built an entirely new one from scratch. I'll dig around and see if I have any pictures when I get home, but by the time everything came together in the engine bay I did not stop to take pics. Now, you can't tell the difference.

I had left parts of the stock harness in the car. I still have to do emissions tests here in CA, so I left the stock emission control harness attached in the rare case I can't get the car to pass with MS.

I have shifted my focus lately, with the MS running flawless in the FC, I have started the new MS project: My 68 Mustang fastback with a 351 Cleveland.
It's currently carbed with distributor ignition. That stuff is getting ditched in favor of injection via MSII 3.0 running MS2/E 2.0b21 taking care of fuel and wasted spark ignition.

I sourced all of the parts out of the junk yard so far for the project, except the 36-1 trigger wheel that my Dad made one night.