I'm still fiddling with my 13b REW MS2 v3.57/Zeal daughtercard on 2.1.0 firmware.
Noise issues are pretty much gone, Fuel Cut settings sorted and we have made it to idle and take the throttle.
I used Aaron Cakes settings ignition wise:

•Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
•Trigger angle: 60
•Ignition input capture; Falling Edge
•Spark Output: Going Low (Normal)
•Number of coils: Wasted Spark
•Spark A Output Pin: D14
•Dwell type: Standard Dwell
•Maximum dwell duration: 3.6
•Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel
•Trigger wheel teeth: 24
•Tooth #1 angle: 5
•Wheel speedL Cam wheel
•Second trigger active on: Rising Edge
•And every rotation of: Crank
•Enable rotary mode: Rotary on
•Output mode: FC mode

Made it run but we had some noise issues, and while I was searching this forum for clues, I found the "Sticky" post, where Guru Cake tells me NOT to use his settings if firmware 2.x.x. because of timing issues, and to use DIY's settings.
DIY's settings are:

•Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
•Trigger angle: 0 ?????
•Ignition input capture; Rising Edge?????
•Spark Output: Going Low (Normal)
•Number of coils: Wasted Spark
•Spark A Output Pin: D14
•Dwell type: Standard Dwell
•Maximum dwell duration: 3.0????
•Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel
•Trigger wheel teeth: 24
•Tooth #1 angle: 0?????
•Wheel speedL Cam wheel
•Second trigger active on: Rising Edge
•And every rotation of: Crank
•Enable rotary mode: Rotary on
•Output mode: FC mode
•RX8 mode: Disabled

The red Q-marks indicates the difference...
Since I've got the crank-wheel/dual VR-sensor setup from a FD, I am unable to move the ignition by turning the CAS.

Anybody with experience or advise?

 

Honestly, either setting is valid. You just need to bump the CAS a bit more for 0 degrees. However since you don't have a CAS, use whatever settings get your timing pointer closest to the mark (probably tooth angle 5) and then adjust the trigger angle to line them up

Whether you trigger on rising or falling depends on whether your VR circuit is configured to invert.

 

No toothed wheel should be using anything but 0 in the trigger angle setting. I'm not 100% sure it even does anything to the timing with the toothed wheel decoder.

With a stock CAS stab, a tooth #1 angle of 5 degrees is correct.

I use a lot less dwell than either of you based on some work a LONG time ago done by the forum user "renns" showing that above a certain amount of dwell, the ignitor just goes into current limit mode. He also showed that actual dwell was longer than what you were actually setting by a significant amount.

I use 2.6 ms as my dwell number and have never had any issues with it.

Ken

 

Was something in the code changed so that trigger angle doesn't effect the "base" timing?

 

Seems like it? Haven't had time to really test it but it didn't seem to move the timing mark (seen with timing-light) when changing from 60 to zero degrees.
Will test it closer in the next few days.

My VR-circut is NOT inverted (J1 in pos. 3-4) How shoul my settings be?
This is how it looks in Aaron's write-up:
•Ignition input capture; Falling Edge
•Second trigger active on: Rising Edge

This is DIY's receipe:

•Ignition input capture; Rising Edge
•Second trigger active on: Rising Edge

Using the MS-II V3.57 ECU

with MS2/Extra 2.0.1 or later code

•Set up the ECU to trigger from the VR Input. Place JP1 in the 2-3 position and J1 in the 3-4 position.
•Remove the jumper going from JS10 to the center hole of Q16, if fitted.
•We will need three ignition outputs, each with a 5 volt pull up. These directions use the built in pull ups on the LED circuits.
◦Run a jumper from PAD1 to PAD16.
◦Run a jumper from PAD3 to PAD14.
◦Run a jumper from PAD2 to PAD12.
•Now it's time to connect the daughterboard to the main board. Use these connectionsaughterboard connection Main board connection
12V S12
5V S5
GND Proto GND
GND SG
VR2 + PAD15
VR2 - PAD13
VR2 Out JS10
IN1* JS11
OUT1* PAD11

 

Yeah, with ms2/extra all the way back to 1.0.2, you really should never have been using that setting with the wheel decoder. Only the tooth #1 angle.

I'm not even 100% sure it does anything even as early as 1.0.2. I'd have to go back and look at the code, but it should always be 0 with the wheel decoder.

Ken

 

Is there some way to disable the trigger angle in the ini? This comes up again and again.

 

okay aaroncake:

for your DIY what is the exact version of firmware and megatune software version because I'm still having ignition problems.

I dont even see in any megatune or tuner studio that has advanced ignition options tab

Im about ready to ditch megasquirt and revert to stock harness w/ Rtek because this is getting ridiculous...

 

What type of problems are you having with the ignition exactly?

 

It is disabled in later versions of the code.

Ken

 

Have you loaded the correct ini file that came with the firmware?

Ken

 

I do not have an MSII, so the settings I presented were based on some old maps I had from 1.x versions of the firmware. Yes, I am aware that they are VERY out of date but for the most part (things like trigger angle excepted) the settings are valid for newer firmware.

When I get an MSII, I'll certainly load newest firmware onto it and update my writeup. But it will be a while before that happens. I'm not thrilled with just making a map in Megatune then posting screen shots without testing it on a vehicle first.

 

I just checked today, and the trigger angle setting can be used to a point to "trim" the timing from what's in the tooth #1 angle setting. However that only allows for a little adjustment. With 60 degrees in that field, timing is almost certainly not right.

So the best way to set timing is to stab the CAS as stock, then set fixed timing to -5, make sure the trigger angle is 0, set the tooth #1 angle to 5 degrees, and adjust the CAS until timing lines up with a timing light.

Ken

 

•Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
•Trigger angle: 0
•Ignition input capture; Rising Edge
•Spark Output: Going Low (Normal)
•Number of coils: Wasted Spark
•Spark A Output Pin: D14
•Dwell type: Standard Dwell
•Maximum dwell duration: 3.0
•Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel
•Trigger wheel teeth: 24
•Tooth #1 angle: 0?????
•Wheel speedL Cam wheel
•Second trigger active on: Rising Edge
•And every rotation of: Crank
•Enable rotary mode: Rotary on
•Output mode: FC mode
•RX8 mode: Disabled

Well, THESE settings work with the FD trigger setup. Fixed timing at 0 degrees, and it is spot on!!

New strange thing, though...
When the engine is cold it is stable as a rock. Revs nicely all the way from 1000 to 6000 rmp without a glitch! BUT when it gets warm the rpm signal gets irratic and jumpy at +3500ish rpm. Its fine at idle and up to 3500, and then all hell brakes loose!

 

Have you checked the AFR or anything like that? Might just be running lean and misfiring.

Ken

 

it gets to much fuel now cause we havent find the right AFR/VE Table yet.
but will get there in time but that dosnt seems to be the problem (atleast not for me)




Here is a picture of logging the Composit..
the thing here is that the "Sensor 2" (blueline) is one thick line, my guess is that it couts 3 times more then the first trigger.

and what is the Red line that got them "jumps"? is that the synch line?

i have also uploaded the tooth logg.
http://www.faudo.net/bilder/MS/logger.csv if someone could have a look and see if there is something wrong?

 

Funny thing... When the engine is warming up it seems fine. Revs nicely, and running like a baby (a bit rich still, haven't tuned the fuel quite yet).
When the engine gets to about 185-188 degrees, I get a failure in the rpm-signal when I revv it.
At about 3500-3700 rpm, the tach in Megatune falls to zero, and then picks it up again...it is fine from idle all the way up to 3500 again, and the same thing happens. Bad misfires when I loose the signal!

When I let the engine cool down, I can revv it all the way again a couple of times, but then the same thing happens at a lower temeratur (water-temp). Tried it earlier today, and got misfires and jumpy signal at 165 degrees.
(I guess the coils and triggers were still warm

It seems like noise in the VR-signal, but I cant figure out why it doesn't occur before it gets warm.

I am running MSD LS1 coils. Could it be that they are causing this if they are no good, and they "leak" when they get hot? If it is noise to the VR-sensors, or bad ground, why does the thing work when it has lower temp?