That won't work. You'll be getting double the fuel as soon as you turn on the second set of injectors.

The staged injection code scales the amount of fuel being delivered by the primaries down based on how large the secondaries are in relation to the primaries.

You'd end up having to reduce the amount of fuel being injected by at least half exactly when the power to the secondaries comes on. I think it'd be really difficult to get that to work smoothly.

Ken

 

I'm not sure those injectors will be big enough. A stock NA 13B needs 460cc injectors... 24lb injectors are about 252 cc/min...

Ken

 

You mentioned the Secondary fuel issue last time i was over. Ill be using 4 of the Injectors. According to a website i found theyll hand the power. thats if i dont go above what it calcutled to 128HP. There free thought id try them out. And if i need ill get bigger ones. I havnt been able to find 550cc like i wanted for a decent price yet

 

Yeah, the problem with the rotary is that you have less time to inject the fuel, so they tend to need bigger injectors for a given amount of power.

That's why the stock S4 NA 13b comes with 460cc injectors (4 of them) even though it only generates something like 140 HP (don't remember the exact number).

Ken

 

Well dammits. Ill look around for 550cc. If i cant find any by the time i get everything ill do what i can to run the 250cc. Ill keep you posted. As its gonna be soon. Ill be waiting on the TB. Ill get in touch to test the MSII I got the Zeal board in. I think i got it right. Also what type of Idle controle is on ur corolla? Im think of using something like that. Make it easier and a lill less costly

 

Stop guessing or reading what is good to use on the failure prone interwebs and start modeling / designing based on the science.

http://not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml

http://not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/t...orDutyCycle=85

 

FWIW if you came to me as my mate to help you set up your car (for free/dinner/beer). I would not even touch it before putting CLEANED and tested (and then PERSONALLY TESTED in the backyard sprayed petrol into the air ) 195500-2020 injectors 550cc from 89-91 FC turbo 2.

 

Alright i ordered the TB itll be here hopefully by friday. And depending on what I can do i may have a lift to get this installed.

 

Alright. I have the TB the MSII is done. I did some home bench testing. And so far everything is working good. Ill be picking up the injectors tommorow or friday. There 680CC. Ill be having the MS control my fan also got that hooked up. The only thing That i am unsure about at all is the tunning. That is where i will fail. Ill use Aaroncakes maps as a base. And go from there. Cant wait for this to happen. I have the car running the best shes ever ran so i hope with all this done shell run even better. I also upgraded to a 105 amp alternator to help out. That and my new one took a ****. Well almost new 1 year and around 20K miles later.

 

i like this. your car will be somewhat similar to my brother's car when all is said and done. i hope your road is less tumultuous than ours though. this spring will be about a year since we started it, and it's still not running yet. when he gets it out of storage in a few weeks, we'll be at it again though.

perhaps by then you'll be up and running, and i'll start picking your brain to get some ideas.

 

Subscirbing to this thread, I'm planning on doing basically the same thing, autonomics TB and all!

 

^lol. Im becoming very popular...Now i just really need to get my Twin turbo idea off the ground...Im picking up(hopefully) the right injectors today. There 350CC at 39 psi. So i may crank up the pressure to 60 Psi to try to get them to flow enough. But ill do some testing. With me moving tommorow and moving my roommate saturday I really doubt that ill be able to do much if anything this weekend. But I can wait to get it in and tuned. Ive been reading some tunning stuff and all i can say is this is gonna get me stressed out lol. The tunning is gonna be hard and take a while but if i get it right i think she will scream. She screams pretty dam well for being a stock port with just a full exhaust and direct fire ignition.

 

 

Just a lill mock up of my spare plates and housings

 

looking good there!

i'm curious. where did you get the fuel rails?

 

The TB comes with the fuel rails:
http://www.auto-nomics.com/cgi-bin/s...part=12168-001

 

wow. well, i won't swear to it (because it was about 5 years ago), but when we started getting the parts together for my brother's car, i don't think the TB came with rails. they were probably an option that we decided not to get because at any given time, i have blank rails in my possession. so i was probably the dumb-*** that said, "oh, let's just make our own. it'll cost less." - and while it probably did, i must say they were quite a pain in the ***. on the positive side, i've learned enough from that experience to hopefully make it less painful the next time around.

anyway, i don't think we broke $400 on our order and i DO recall having the TPS added as an extra charge at the time. if i remember the next time i'm over there, i'll check his receipt. either way, whether my memory failed me, or things did happen how i remember them, i think this offering as it stands (in your link) is great. i just wish we had the car running already.

 

I cant get this thing to do ******* nothing. No tach signal. I followed everything in aaron cakes write up. I dont ******* get it. Pulling my hair on this ****. Ive checked everything the wiring from the cas to MSII. Its jumper-ed following aarons write up. But im not getting anything.

 

Are you absolutely sure that your CAS is hooked up correctly. When I started my MS1, I had the Main Trigger and Home Trigger switched and did not get a tach signal. I used a ohm meter to trace the wiring from the CAS all the way back to the circuit board on the MS1.

From: http://stuff.pw.cx/Megasquirt%20MS2%...azda%20CAS.pdf

"Wiring up the CAS to your Megasquirt DB37 Connector
It’s recommended that you use a shielded cable to connect to the CAS. Earth the shielding braid at the
Megasquirt end only! (You can earth this to pin#9 (pins 8, 9, 10 and 11 should all be grounds and connected together))

CAS wiring standard colours:
o RED – Main Trigger Ne+
o GREEN – Home Trigger G+
o WHITE – Main Trigger Neo
o WHITE/BLACK – Home Trigger G-

Main trigger (24 tooth) connection to built-in VR circuit:
o RED Ne+ connects to Pin24 of the DB37 Connector
o WHITE Ne- connects to Pin7 of the DB37 Connector

Home trigger (2 tooth) connection to added VR2 circuit:
o GREEN G+ to PIN31 (on the DB37 connector)
o WHITE/BLACK G- to PIN36 (VR2 Ground)"

RXDad

 

every place i look at say to wire the cas completly different. I have the home trigger coming in on pins 3 and 4. And i have the zeal daughter board jumeped to spr1 and spr2. Dams i read that walkthrough. WTF. Aaron cake and Diyautotune all say something different. I quess ill try that and see what happens. Thanks RXDad

 

They say to wire the CAS different probably only on the G sensor.

The Ne+ wire should go to pin 24 on the mainboard, the NE- wire should go to one of the ground pins. Where you wire the G sensor depends on where you jumpered the lm1815 board to the db37. The G+ sensor should end up on the lm1815 input, and the G- should end up grounding to the ground via on the lm1815 board.

You should be methodical about your testing.

You're not getting a signal from the CAS, so what can be wrong?

It could be wiring, or it could be settings.

So test each wire in the CAS with a multitester for continuity to the point where it's eventually supposed to go. For example, for the G sensor, test continuity to the via on the lm1815 board where it terminates, etc...

If you have continuity, post your settings, we'll make sure they're correct.

If everything is correct and you still don't have a signal, use the composite logger in tuner studio to take a look at what the signals coming in from the CAS look like, and send us that information.

Ken

 

Composite logger shows no signal. I've traced the cas wiring all the way to the db37. I have two wires for the g sensor coming to the board. Im thinking that I have the ne- in the wring spot. The setting im using are the ones u sent me.

 

OK, settings are probably fine then.

For the Ne signal, make sure both mainboard VR pots are turned fully counter-clockwise.

Assuming that is the case, then check the wiring for the main VR sensor, and make sure it's connected to the correct pin.

Ken

 

The pots are turns ce. Ill double check the pinout and I use the guid Rx dad put up. I think I wired the gsensor wrong on the zeal board

 

so fixed issues that i noticed that where wrong and tryed to see if i could get a cranking pulse still nothing. Idk what going on gettin frustrating now lol