smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

oh yeah and my leds go to pins 3,5,7. so my leds 14, 15, 16 go to 3, 5, 7 respectively. but 3,5,7 are wired u,v,w and it should be v,u,x. now i understand. must have been a diff. ecu. i will switch these around and see what happens. still dont know if my h20 or iat will work. ill get back

renns

Open the MS box, and follow the signal wires from the three leds out to the db37 connector. If the builder of that box decided to use pins 3 and 5 to pass the ignition signals out, that's just fine. Arbitrarily changing pin locations on your harness without knowing what's in the box will only cause you further grief.

If unsure, open the MS box, and take a nice clear picture (no cell phone snaps!) of top and bottom of the board, and post them up here.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

one of them goes to pin 7? thats a sensor ground for the CAS, that shouldnt go there (i dont think that theres even a way to get a wire there to try to pass a signal out). Are you numbering the DB37 pins correctly? Are the stock harnesses in the car for an NA or Turbo or 'vert?

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok. i understand this must be as frustrating for you as it is for me. i was writing down what i had when i posted last and incorrectly listed 3,4,5 as 3,5,7. sorry. my wiring is correct now. i finally made sense of it. traced the leds to 3,4,5 and rewired the harness to match my harness. one of the trailing coil wires was wired to some overheat switch. thats all behind me now. just got back from the shop after hooking it all up.

i have some issue with my megatune i believe. i have some settings wrong or something. i set easy therm up for rx7, have the proper resistor for iat. when i connect the ms to mt my sensor display shows 189kpa (@atmosphere), 43*F(h2o), 42*F (iat) and finally no crank signal. i unplugged all of these sensors and the readings dont change. the car hasnt run in 5 months due to build up. outside temp right now is about 85*F. when i tested the stim before install, everything functioned as it should as far as i could tell except for h20 and iat because i had not yet done easytherm mod. at that time i was recieving very high temp readings due to resistors. i think mt isnt recieving the right sensor info from ms. so i unplugged and went back to stim. changed the stim setting in mt to "on for stim." still no rpm and the sensor temps are still the same.

either i set something up wrong or i seriously dont know what im doing.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

so even with the stim plugged in and "stim for wheel" turned on, you cannot get an RPM signal from the stim? is the little switch below the rpm pot turned off? did you burn the settings and re-check them afterwards? do the pots for CLT and IAT change anything? You may want to try re-flashing the chip with the version of code that you're using, and then reload the msq. mine got corrupted once and had connectivity issues, but its been fine since.

Also, just for peace of mind you might want to check continuity of the sensor wires from the plug where they connect to their respective sensor back to the DB37 connector.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

yes for "stim for wheel" on. no rpm at stim. didnt know there was a switch below rpm pot. 99% sure i burned the settings. not sure how to check them. dont know if i need to load my file in megatune first or just open my project car("new bitch"). i think if the settings file is loaded and fetch my settings too, they would look alike. would i just not open my settings file and try to fetch from megasquirt? the pots for clt and iat dont change anything. the second attemp at testing the megasquirt on the harness did give caution that the controller was not same code type. 29q instead of 29v. but it has functioned on 29v up till now. after that message i restarted megasquirt and megatune and no message.

the harness should have continuity. when i started to tear the car down it was driving and well. i will do this though. as well.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

the only thing that looks like it works with ms on harness or on stim is fuel pump. fuel pump flashes continuously. megatune says im connected and i have tested several times.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

i feel like i have to rule out the code, and the megasquirt, the sensors and plugs, unless everything is fried. but that doesnt explain why my map reads 189kpa and doesnt respond to vaccum or pressure, harness or stim. i feel like it has to be in megatune somehow. i have a connection but no activity. when cranking... no guages respond... pulse width, timing,map, afr, rpm. nothing.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

whats the basis for thinking its the connection? when it cranks, do you hear the fuel pump turn on, or do the injectors or spark plugs fire, even tho the screen doesnt do anything? If you really think its a connection problem, try reloading the firmware onto the MS (use the option that involves the bootloader, it's more complete), and reinstall megatune and see if you still have the same connectivity problems

The fuel pump shouldnt flash, I think that a pulsing fuel pump is an error message. Checking it on msextra.com, it means a configuration conflict. Here is more info on it. Try correcting this first (although it shouldnt affect the sensor values), see if it works, and if not, reload the firmware and reinstall megatune.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

i will do all this tonight

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

so i checked what the error message and pulsing fuel pump were. i used the mini terminal and got a crank problem and spark outputs. couldnt figure out whatwas wrong if a settings problem. so i tried to reinstall everything. i reinstalled megatune setup for ms-extra29v, my firmware code. did that and solved the sensor problem temporarily, but using the stim, had an erratic rpm signal. all over the place. so i checked my settings again. it still looked ok. i just loaded my file from before that i saved elseware. so i then tried to reload the firmware. it wouldnt work without errors. and at the end of the comm window it said something about signature: tra code 29q******. i dontknow what to do. i am so lost, iam starting to regret my choice in ems

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

ok, how erratic was the RPM signal? Of of the stim mine usually jumps around a little... moreso than when its actually connected to the car. As a first step, download the pack (firmware, version of megatune etc) for code version 29w or higher, since before that there was a problem with trailing split code (and i think a few other things, 29w is working well for me, but 29y1 i hear has some compensation for unintentional spark retard at high rpms). Make sure you have LED17 set to spark output A, LED18 to spark output C, and LED19 to spark output B, just to avoid potential spark output conflicts there, and re-do the settings from scratch. This may seem a bit tedious, but theres something wrong with the settings that you have saved that keeps causing a conflict, and this could be the easiest way to not do it again.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok, i chilled out. reloaded my firmware. and mt2.25. and still got the same signature tra 29q, even though i downloaded 29v. started to redo all my constants and settings. now i gotta go track down all the posts that i got my settings base from, but what ever. i didnt notice that when configuring megatune, when you have to chose the ini file in settings of your code type, the most recent it lists is like 29s. so i chose msns-extra. i did some looking around and figured this was best choice. couldnt do the copyini file thing, because i did get mt2.25-29v file and my firmware29v seperate, months ago and saved it to disc. my laptop is no longer online. not enough ram or memory. and i just bought a new $1300 desktop. so if i still have to do it i will do it through disc again. i was able to go this far and not have too many problems. rpm is stable now. befor it was like " 0, 4k, 200, 19k, 0, 36k, 18k..." hence"all over" and like stupid fast too. it would change so fast you couldnt read the last three digits. so im in the middle of setting things up AGAIN. on the stim, the clt seems to operate normal on the pot, but the iat is still only reading a min of like 156*F. and up from there. i even redid easytherm AGAIN. we will see. ill keep [lugging tomorrow morning.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

well, if you do (and load) easytherm, it will make the IAT's weird, because the stim is designed to simulate stock GM IAT and CLT sensors. With the settings for our IAT, it will not read the GM IAT correctly because they operate in two drastically different ranges of resistance (thus needing to change the bias resistor for IAT as well). The coolant sensor is similar enough to the GM one that its not a problem. Before you do any more tho, save your settings, and upgrade to the latest code version. If you download megatune and the firmware from the same place (a matched set for 29v is available at the top of the msextra manuals index page, http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...ual_Index.htm), they should work together fine, they'll be for the same version. I think there was a link in this forum for 29w, i dont remember where I got it from.

turbo2SE

iTrader: (1)

can someone take a pic of there ignotion switch cause im having trouble where to solder the wiring into .and the diagram is not clear to me. how does it start ?

ignition switch, battery,20 fuse?
then bridge the relays with a split with a Y in the line?

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

you dont touch the starter or that wiring at all. Theres no need to. Basically, the MS turns on when you turn the key to the "on" position (cause thats when it gets power). Then, when it sees that the engine is spinning (rpm signal), it starts the fuel pump, starts injecting etc. It knows that you're cranking if the RPM was just 0, and then starts spinning at below a value that you specify (usually 350 to 400 rpm). So it determines on and cranking purely by the sensors that it already has, you dont need to touch the starting system at all.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

aight guys... i thought i had it all figured out. got everything redownloaded, and put in all my settings again. tested on stim. all good. plugged in to car. sensors read correctly now! but no rpm reading. i tested continuity of the cas both NE+ and Ne- read ok. with the ms installed on the harness, at the 7 and 24, that should be cas, i get voltage on both with a multimeter while cranking. originally with the suggestion of adjusting the pots. i turn counterclockwise till it clicks. then around again till just before it clicks and then i adjusted clockwise one full turn. after i tested cont. and voltage, i adjusted the pots out one more turn. approximated two turns clockwise. no change in rpm signal.

v3, missing tooth, decoder setting12, off, -1)(1,3,7,9)(normal, 024s9style)codebasegeneric wheel)(idle, sparkA, sparkC, sparkB, normal, h20 inj., output1, output3, shiftlight, Knock input) sparksettings(60, 0, timebased, -0, 1, no, no, -0, 0)

hopefully some one can say " oh, just switch that one around!" doubtful, but hey.
any ideas?

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

oops stupid smileys.. those are : and ( not

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

well, for spark settings, I think you want the "fixed angle" down at the bottom to be -10 so it will read from the spark map instead of using a 0* angle for everything. That wont affect your signal though. With the stim in, and stim-for-wheel turned on, do you get RPM signal? If you do, then its probably an issue with the wiring from the cas to the MS. If not, its probably internal to the MS

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

i can fix the fixed angle. but the wiring shouldnt be an issue. like i said, i have continuity on both ends of the cas harness. and i have voltage leaving ms through the harness and returning to the ms while cranking. with the stim for wheel on, using stim, i do get a good consistant rpm signal. i doubt its my grounds. i grounded good when i pulled the motor out and put her back in. is it possible the pots for rpm noise are not adjusted out enough. i have about two turns open. i saw a thread about missing tooth and having noise in upper rpms, with pots open more and when turning down the noise in the pots that the rpm signal disappeared. while cranking and getting voltage it seems low, but i dont know how fast my multimeter is reading. i was seeing like .33v up and down. but it never went over 1v. is this normal or should i be seeing more like 5v or so. maybe my cas isnt toleranced good enough to get a strong signal?

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

i havent used missing tooth, so any info i provide on what I did or my pot settings prob wont help a lot. Even tho the CAS pretty-much never fails (not too much in it that could fail), try pulling the plug wires off, plugging in another CAS (doesnt need to be missing tooth), setting it to 2nd trigger (instead of missing tooth) and spinning it. You should still get an RPM signal, it just wouldnt have a reference point for figuring out spark timing. Could you also post up pictures of what your CAS looks like inside, and the grinding job on the teeth? Also, to clean up noise, muy has suggested in other threads to put a .001 uF capacitor across the G leads where they reach the MS, and if that doesnt seem to help, try a .01 uF cap. you could attach the .01 uF cap in parallel with the .001 cap, because in parallel, capacitors are additive.

So you are using the 2nd gen harness, or at least shielded cable for the CAS signal, right? Do you have one end of the shielding for the cable grounded? (in the 2nd gen harness, the side near the ECU is already grounded in the harness)

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

uh i guess. this is an unmodified harness originally from this car. the shielding at the cas isnt grounded to anything but i figured the ecu side is. ill try to ground the cas side too. for this cap, solder it across the leads? like one lead on the cap goes to cas+ and the other lead goes to cas- ?

im going to try and move the cas "pick-up" closer to the teeth. and try this. after i use my stock cas to test in 2nd trigger mode. if i do get rpm with stock cas i will try the cap mods. i maybe open my pots up more if still no signal in either case. wondering tho if i am adjusting just one of the pots or both. im unclear. ive been adjusting both. and i guess i can try to reground my engine bay grounds again. i guessi should ground my shielding to the ground formerly of the "vaccum clutter"? i used wire brush when i regrounded and now i will use a grinder and make sure i get good metal contact. that way no questions. as always thanks topless. this is so frustrating. i have a 400hp car just sitting here. grrrr.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

if its a stock harness, the shielding should already be grounded by the ECU, DO NOT ground it again at the cas, you dont want it to be a potential path for current to flow through. The grounds should be good if you cleaned them with a wire brush before re-bolting them. I havent heard of a problem with the pick-up being too far away from the teeth. Do you have/could you take a picture of the two teeth that you ground off of the 24 tooth wheel?

Good luck, although at this point it may be just as easy to make the second LM1815 circuit, use the stock CAS, and be done with the signal noise issues

T2GTUS

If you ground the cas shield wire at the ecu and cas ... it wont be a shield anymore ... I would check the cas shielded ground at the ecu ... iirc it's under some copper foil ... iirc muythai's .01 cap mod was done from the g+ and g- at the lm1815 itself ... since you are on missing tooth you could try that on your ne+ and ne- ... I have had some success in getting a cleaner signal moving the pickups closer (just dont go too close) ... you could also try setting the lm1815 into "mode 2" which iirc is connecting pin5 to 5v ... it raises the noise threshold ... I know there is a thread on that here ...

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

I'm in the same boat as well, if anyone's read my posts they'll see i'm having issues with both tach signal noise and no starting, but I'm using the second VR circuit. Can anyone shed some more light as to wear I can find the stock S4 CAS shielding ground? I can see the shielding around my 4 CAS wires, but I don't see it connected to anything... thanks.