smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok guys... one more issue.
now with easy therm i think.
i did the whole easy therm thing... using stock sensors, and copied all the files. in the third step, in megatune... it says to reload the configure file and i should get the right values. but im not. not exactly sure what to reload... so i reloaded everything and saved all the settings in the configurator. everything went down with out a hitch. till this step. the onlything i was unsure of, was when setting the easytherm up was when the box comes up with the resistor settings in ohms, the rx7 file had one set to 2490 and one to like 24000 or something... but i still set them both to 2490 as said in the instructions. maybe i messed up here but dont know for sure. or maybe i just dont know what to load as the config file. please help me... again...

v3.0 stock sensors

thanks

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

you will need to change the air temp sensor's resistor with a higher value one. In easytherm there are presets for the 7, and you will see what the resistor value that automatically pops up is. Also, when you load the stuff, are you connecting the boot-loader jumper thing? (the two holes above the 5v source and proto area on the V3 board).

renns

Did you swap the bias resistor to one of higher value? If you use rx-7 defaults in EasyTherm, you'll see the air temp bias resistor changes to 47k or so. You need to swap in a resistor that matches. If you have one anywhere in the 20-60k range, you can use it and just change the bias resistor field to match the actual sensor you used.

Are you using the default 'car1' project in MegaTune, or did you add a new one?

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

renns-im using a new project for my settings that are going onto the megasquirt. and when i loaded the rx7 presets... the iat bias resistor jumped to 47k and i changed it to 2490, like the instructions that came with my easytherm download. i have done everything except my megasquirt config. in a new project file. the onlything i did in car1 was the original config. i think. i have kinda been flying by the seat of my pants on this whole thing. because i really have had no idea what ive been doing. but im learning.

topless-no i didnt do the boot loaded jump... i chose option b in my supplied instructions that didnt require the jumper method. pretty sure it work right. the coolant seems to read properly.

both-also i am using the rx7 sensors... 88na. its likely that i will be impatient and try to redo the steps using the supplied preset for the rx7 iat bias resistor to see if this works. this has been a 5 month project and today is my scheduled start up day. if i cant get it to read proper... i will wait for startup, till i hear back from someone.

renns

You need to change the bias resistor on your board, and leave rx7 defaults alone. Be sure to copy the .inc files created by EasyTherm to the Megasquirt/YourCarProjectName/mtCfg folder. That's where MegaTune looks on startup. If it doesn't find the .inc files there, then it uses GM default lookup tables.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok... well i thought the bias resistor that was on the board was the right one for the stock sensors... now i assume it isnt... i have to look and then go to radioshack and find one. solder it in... guess i can find the location on the board through the megamanual online. thanks in advance... i hope.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

the bias resistors (R4 and R7 IIRC) that come with all the kits are for standard GM sensors. The CLT sensor on our cars is close enough to the GM sensor in resistance range that the normal bias resistor can be used, but the IAT sensor is order-of-magnitudes different, and thus needs a different than normal resistor to bias it in the wheatstone bridge setup.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok... i have another problem now. i went ahead and pressurized my fuel system and some other things... yesterday i think i was getting a tach signal. but today....no. i messed up i think and played with those blue boxes i think are called pots. i think they control some kinda noise in the tach signal. but now i get none at all. i have to go into megamanual and find r4 for iat because i cant find it labeled on the board. i will start thread hunting to find resolutions to my tach signal. if there is any direction you all could give that would be great too. stock harness except my wbo2 tapped in to nbo2 signal. i believe i got this ms from sircignus in the na form. also all of a sudden today i seem to be getting a bad signal from the map... yesterday i was getting like 98kpa and today, it was like 189 or something. i guess this is what i get for buying a second hand ecu. stupid me.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

sounds like its just not your day... Those pots (short for potentiometer, variable resistor) do play with noise and signal strength of the tach sig. Try turning the pots back to the position limiter, and then go about a turn or so away from it. (the limiter is hard to find, you just need to listen very carefully for a small click, nothing actually stops the pot from turning)

R4 and R7 are easy to find, in my kit (from DIYautotune) they were sky blue in color compared to the tan for the other resistors. They are also closer in tolerance to the nominal resistance value (so the bar at the end will probably be a different color than the rest)

I dont know about the map sensor, it should be integrated into the board, and i dont know how it would actually see 189 kpa.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

i dont know whats up with the map. maybe its correcting for the wrong iat signal. still have to do that. im looking for a diagram of the harness and will check out the wiring to make sure its right. i kinda just grazed over it when i bought it. i adjusted the pots initially counterclockwise till one clicked. and left it there so i will adjust that one clockwise one turn. the lower one never did click and i spunt the hell out of it. we will see. like seriously considering buying the harness kit from glenns.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

no, theres no correction applied to the map signal for IAT, what you see is what it is (or should be). the correction is applied to the ve map (and to other things if you have the right options turned on), but you wouldnt see that on megatune's pressure gauge.

both of the pots should click, but they do require quite a few turns to do so

A new harness isnt going to help you with the CAS signal tho, since that runs through the engine and interior harnesses to get to the ECU, not thru the emissions harness. Plus, the stock CAS wires are run thru a shielded cable, which i dont think you would get with the glenn's harness. Since the MAP is incorporated on the board itself, you arent going to affect that signal with a new harness either, so im not sure what it would accomplish

T2GTUS

hopefully those pics will come up ... double-check your harness and grounds just to be sure(grounds always seem to be an issue), make sure the mods are right as well (I have seen a couple boards with issues there alone), and check for flux/solder bridges ...

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

nah i meant new harness for the one i have. ie eliminating the stock harness because this one is all boogered up. and then i would know that everything went where it was supposed to. but anyway, i got around to checking the r4 resistor... and it is a 47k 5%+/-... this one is the iat temp i believe. and i assume the light blue one on the board is the coolant temp, and i could leave that one alone. only megatune is reading coolant at 45*F and iat at 42*F now and both should be at outside temp... prolly like 80-85*F right now. hell id accept 65* in the shade. but not 40. i have done something seriously wrong. i will head back to the shop in a bit and see if my pot adjustment worked for my cas signal. i think my grounds are all good. i just rebuilt this car, and check all the grounds in engine bay. sanded and tightened. there has to be a common factor im overlooking for the sensors. iat and h2ot. my resistors are correct and i reran easytherm with the rx7 defaults, and rewrote the incs and s19 and such.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok im a complete loser. this harness im using isnt even wired for spark. its got no cas input. what a moron. any way. still dont know what to do with the stock sensor problem.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

well, the cas is run through the engine (with the battery connections, fuse box, drivers side of the engine bay) and interior harnesses, so it wouldnt be a part of the emissions harness (the one with the injector plugs, pass side of the engine bay). is your MS and emissions harness hooked up to the interior harness at all?

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

hmmm. i need to edit that last post. i do have crank input on pins 7 and 24. so i should have a timing signal. right? but i see nothing driving my coils. i guess this was a fuel only unit before. i also have wires to pins 3,4,5. not sure what that is supposed to be in the diagram above, in the upper left area. coils? my db37 has nothing to pins25,27,29,31. only thing i can figure. ive been searching but cant find anything helpfull. if those are the coils then i dont know which wires are what.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

my harness utilizes all three harnesses<---? and the db37 has connections to all three. all the db37 connections that i cant identify (3,4,5) go to the biggest harness. which ever that is. the dash? prolly outputs? and i dont know where pins 25,27,29,31 go on the stock harness. to which ones.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

ok 31, 27, 29 are coils... anyone know what 25 is? and any help with my sensor problem? there shouldnt be any mods needed to convert this fuel only unit to sparking too is there, beside wiring it to the harness?

AC LINKS

MS factory harness
pin 19 ground harness ground
pin 26 TPS 2A
pin 21 water temp 2I
pin 20 intake temp 2L
pin 23 o2 sensor 2D
pin 33 rear pri injector 3C
pin 35 rear sec injector 3F
pin 32 front pri injector 3E
pin 34 front sec injector 3H
pin 28 main relay 3I
pin 22 throttle sensor 2G
pin 8 ground 2C
pin 9 ground 2R
pin 10 ground 3A
pin 11 ground 3G

pin 2 VR2 ground CAS -G 1P
pin 3 VR2 CAS +G 1N
pin 7 CAS -Ne 1Q
pin 24 CAS +Ne 1T

pin 37 fuel pump check wire fuel pump test connector under hood

led 14 pin 25 or 4 IGt-L 1V
led 15 pin 27 or 5 IGs-T 1U
led 16 pin 29 or 6 IGt-T 1X

That should help you make a plug & play harness

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

thats what i was looking for. makes sense. thats the cause to my iat sensor readings. no connection there. i think... i have to clean this harness up

AC LINKS

Glad I can help

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

The IAT position on the DB37 should be standard, but not all of the rest are. Pins 25, 27, 29, and 31 can be used for anything (altho 3 of them are generally used for coil controls. I believe that pins 2,3, and 4 are also generic (or at least 3 of them in that cluster of 1-5), so your specific wiring may be different. It should be pretty straightforward to trace the wires back from the LEDs for the coils, and back from the second CAS sensor signal (if you use the second wheel & LM1815N and havent shaved 2 teeth off of the 24 tooth wheel)

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

alrighty then... here are my concerns. after going throught the harness, i think everything should work. 3I, the main relay doesnt go to pin 28, its on 11. dont know about that one. pins 8-11 are grounds. can the harness ground be used on one of these? i assume yes. my cas is right so hopefully it was the pots. pin4 is used for igt-l. should be ok. pin3 is used for igs-t. generic tach out right? should be ok. and the tough one. on the factory harness 1X is for igt-t, what is 1W? same thing? this goes to pin5, and i have no wire on 1X. if 1W and 1X are interchangable, then the generic outputs should do the trick right? is there a specific configuration for the board to run 1-5 pins for ignition instead of 25,27,29,31?

oh and im using missing tooth wheel. i know this is a pita. and im an ******* for not building my ms myself. i know better now. i never realized there were so many variations. but i appreciate all the help. looks like it comes down to these last few wires im not too sure about.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

wait, so the 12v feed from the main relay is going to pin 11? That cant be right if the MS is powering up and working. if the main relay wire actually went to pin 11, it would be a massive short and youd be blowing fuses and burning out components and traces on the MS board.

With the ignition system, there are 4 wires stock used to control it, the MS only uses 3 of these. IGt-L (IGnition timing - Leading), IGt-T (IGnition timing -Trailing), and IGs-T (IGnition switch - Trailing). The leading sparks are run in wasted spark mode, so they both fire at the same time off of the leading signal. The trailings cant be run this way, so there is the switch signal which tells the FC coil to switch between rotor 1 and rotor 2 trailing, and the timing signal actually fires the spark on the selected rotor. The IGs-T signal is also what the tach uses. Double-check the wiring with the FSM pin-outs for whatever ECU was in the car stock, and then the wiring back to the LEDs. Then, if anythings still wrong, correct it according to the chart that AC Links posted.

smackhead999

iTrader: (5)

well my igt-t is wired to 1w, which is the heat hazard switch. according to my haynes manual pin layout. maybe it was a different ecu code. so i will switch this to 1x, which is the igt-t properly. is it ok that igs-t goes to pin3 and igt-t goes to pin5? im seriously thinking on resoldering those to pins 27 and 29.

my fault on the main relay... i dont know how i messed that up. its wired to pin 28. i have not slept in almost 4 days. 12hr days at work and trying to get this car running is wearing me out.

thanks a lot topless