Megasquirt All leds on ecu stay on
#1
All leds on ecu stay on
Ok I got my rpm signal and I was trying to start. I was trying to play with settings to get it going. I turned it off and came back to it and was trying to start again, and smelled fuel. I looked at the leds on the ecu and they were on steady. I shut it off and looked under the car and saw a fuel puddle. I was coming from the exhaust manifold. I the injectors are staying open the whole time I think. So what happened? On the stim all the leds stay on and I cant see an rpm signal anymore, and the accel led on the stim is not working and the injector led as well but the fuel pump led come on and goes off as it should. So where do i look?
oh yeah. Ms2/extra2.1.0o code. modded cas, stock ignition. HHHHMMMMM
oh yeah. Ms2/extra2.1.0o code. modded cas, stock ignition. HHHHMMMMM
#2
With the stock ignition setup, all the LEDs should stay on.
If the injectors are staying on, most likely you've got a wiring issue or some kind of short circuit.
Send your msq so we can at least check your settings.
Ken
If the injectors are staying on, most likely you've got a wiring issue or some kind of short circuit.
Send your msq so we can at least check your settings.
Ken
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#8
Here's what I found:
1) You have Injections per Engine Cycle set to 1, you will want 2 if you want decent throttle response.
2) What do you have TSEL connected to? VROUT or VROUTINV?
3) You may want to start out with the noise filter off. The noise filter is the kind of thing you only turn on if you need it.
4) Your wheel settings are incorrect. You have 12 teeth with 1 missing tooth at cam speed. With this configuration (12 teeth) you want crank speed.
5) your ignition table is probably not going to work well with the rotary. There's WAY too much advance at high load, and probably too much at idle.
6) your cranking advance is 5 degrees. I'd suggest 0 or lower.
7) Some of your lag factors are too low. I use 85-90 for MAP, 90-100 for RPM, 90-100 for TPS.
8) your revlimiter is probably too low.
9) your cranking fuel pulse rate should be "every event"
10) you should probably multiply your accel enrich TPSdot threshold, and the rates by 10.
11) You have staged injection turned off. That should probably be turned on. For an NA car, I'd suggest using duty-based, and setting the duty to around 70, turn on staging gradual transition, and turn transition events to 25, primary reduction delay to 0, and secondary enrichment to 0, and tune from there.
That's all I found at a glance. The wheel settings are likely what's keeping the engine from firing up. Assuming timing is set right, the 5 degree cranking advance will make starting difficult.
Ken
1) You have Injections per Engine Cycle set to 1, you will want 2 if you want decent throttle response.
2) What do you have TSEL connected to? VROUT or VROUTINV?
3) You may want to start out with the noise filter off. The noise filter is the kind of thing you only turn on if you need it.
4) Your wheel settings are incorrect. You have 12 teeth with 1 missing tooth at cam speed. With this configuration (12 teeth) you want crank speed.
5) your ignition table is probably not going to work well with the rotary. There's WAY too much advance at high load, and probably too much at idle.
6) your cranking advance is 5 degrees. I'd suggest 0 or lower.
7) Some of your lag factors are too low. I use 85-90 for MAP, 90-100 for RPM, 90-100 for TPS.
8) your revlimiter is probably too low.
9) your cranking fuel pulse rate should be "every event"
10) you should probably multiply your accel enrich TPSdot threshold, and the rates by 10.
11) You have staged injection turned off. That should probably be turned on. For an NA car, I'd suggest using duty-based, and setting the duty to around 70, turn on staging gradual transition, and turn transition events to 25, primary reduction delay to 0, and secondary enrichment to 0, and tune from there.
That's all I found at a glance. The wheel settings are likely what's keeping the engine from firing up. Assuming timing is set right, the 5 degree cranking advance will make starting difficult.
Ken
#9
VROUTINV
K ill change it all to your recommendations and let you know what happens.
Since your heping me may I ask if the wheel settings are why I lost the tach signal?I may have changed it not thinking about it.
Thanks
K ill change it all to your recommendations and let you know what happens.
Since your heping me may I ask if the wheel settings are why I lost the tach signal?I may have changed it not thinking about it.
Thanks
#10
wow reloaded the code and set what you told me to , everything looked fine then i turned off the computer and plugged into my car and all the guages in megatune are stuck not working. CRAP
What keeps happening?
My computer said megatune was not responding? hmm wonder if my laptop is crapping out?
What keeps happening?
My computer said megatune was not responding? hmm wonder if my laptop is crapping out?
#11
Ok so the new news is if i reflash firmware and make my settings and save it. Shut off megatune and reboot msII ecu and bring up megatune all the settings are there but the tach is stuck at 65535 rpm and nothing on the gages work. I swear. Its like when power is removed and reapplied it freezes. All the megatune settings are still there. possible power supply issue?hmm
#12
That means there is a settings conflict. Turn off the ms and open the mini-terminal in megatune, then turn the ms back on. A message should display in the mini terminal that tells you where the conflict is. If you want post the new msq and I'll see what is wrong as well.
Ken
Ken
#13
Im going to look to but also load the msq here. Ok I put up two just in case for some reason one of them looks fine but if there is a settings problem bet you will find it.lol Sorry to trouble you. But thanks for your time
#15
Wow your badass. I went to staged injection and was looking and found the threashold and hysterius was 0 and 0. Set those to 4000 and 200 for now and the config error is gone about to hook up to my car and check it out.
#16
Those staging params are ok if you selected RPM for staging.
I usually recommend just duty for NA rx7s (set to 70 for the threshold and 10 for the hysteresis), or duty for the first parameter (40 for the threshold and 10 for the hysteresis) and MAP for the second parameter (90-100 for the threshold, and 10-20 for hysteresis) and set the Secondary staging logic to "OR."
Ken
I usually recommend just duty for NA rx7s (set to 70 for the threshold and 10 for the hysteresis), or duty for the first parameter (40 for the threshold and 10 for the hysteresis) and MAP for the second parameter (90-100 for the threshold, and 10-20 for hysteresis) and set the Secondary staging logic to "OR."
Ken
#17
One more question , The engine is trying to start and does for a few seconds but roughly. SO I figured check timing on the cas. Well I hooked up the timing light and I see nothing. I made sure it worked and my friends old camry and it works fine. So a timing light should be working right? I know I should use the light. And I pulled the wires to check spark and its there for sure blue spark and it shocked me too.lol So ? Thanks for all your time Ken.
#18
Yeah, the timing light should be working. Sometimes with thicker wires it's hard to get a timing light to work right though in my experience. You have to make sure the pickup is really on the wire well.
If it's trying to start, or it's running rough after it starts, get someone to keep their foot on the pedal, and check the timing while it's running. Also, if it's the first time you've started, your fuel is probably pretty far off, so you'll want to try to adjust that.
Ken
If it's trying to start, or it's running rough after it starts, get someone to keep their foot on the pedal, and check the timing while it's running. Also, if it's the first time you've started, your fuel is probably pretty far off, so you'll want to try to adjust that.
Ken
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