You have to run 2 power wires? What about remote wires? You can't splice off the other one or anything?

 

Both amps can share the same power wire. Just make sure the wire is big enough to handle both and that you most certainly fuse it near the battery.

The remote leads can be spliced no problem, it's a very low current signal.

 

Ya I figured the remote wires would be no problem. Now the power, what gauge do you think is necessary? I already have one amp hooked up and am going to run another 4 channel amp for highs and mids.

 

how many watts? get the monster cables, they work fine. Oh, and larger the better.

 

I am currently running a 2 channel 500 watt amp for the 12" but only using one channel because I don't think its bridgeable. And the 4 channel amp I am going to be adding is 560watts.

 

Get a distribution block, and make sure the cable is the right gauge for the power, I have d-blocks in stock call me at 7818261500 if u have questions

 

Explain like "audio for idiots." What exactly is a distributer block and what gauge power am I going to need? How much is a distributer block anyways?

 

distribution block is a piece of audio equipment that accept will accept one large gauge input 1/0 or 4 gauge, and has 2 lower gauge outputs like 8gauge or 4 gauge. This is so you only have to run one power wire back and then you can split it, they usually are very nice show pieces, will platinum or gold plated blocks and they screw to the floor. Some are fused, some arent thats a choice.

 

In my old grand am I ran 4 guage from the engine bay to the trunk, to a distribution block that ran two 4 guages out the other side, one to each amp, and then there is a splitter for the rca cables that you can find at any audio store. worked great for me and 4 guage is plenty big

 

So a distribution block just saves you from running 2 larger gauge power wires right? How much do they run? What if I already have one power wire thats like 8 gauge, is that good enough? How did you run 4 gauge wire, thats huge.

 

well this is what you should do . first off get a distrubution block . if you have 4 gauge run that to it . then run a 4 gauge out to the sub amp and a 4 gauge to the mid and high amp mids and highs dont take that much power to run you could use 8 gauge . but you are better oof running 4 just for safe measures . always run 4 to a sub amp . you will have no problem running these amps in your car it aint that high powered of a system you should be fine doing this . if you want add a cap for some more bass . and to help the amps perform right . hope i was of some help

 

I believe 8 guage is too small for your application. $ guage wire looks big, but its not too bad. I had 4 gauge going to a distribution block in mine, with two 8 guages going into my amp (it has two power inputs). Ive since gotten a capacitor, and I use it to distribute my wires. Ive got a block if you need it. I Cant remember who makes it, but its a good piece. I paid 30 for it, ill sell it for $15 shipped. If youre interested, ill go get it and give you some more info on it.

 

Ya I am interested. Could I run 4 gauge to the block, 8 gauge to each amp and use a capasitor? I know some blocks will go right on top of the capasitor too. If not can I put the cap. before the block? How's this sound?

 

You can put the cap before the block, but it probably only needs to be before the amp powering the subs. The block has 1 input that will accept 2 or 4 gauge wire, and has 4 outputs for 8 gauge wire. It also has a nice cover if I can find it.

 

In order to determine the Gauge of the cable, yoou need:

- Max Ampr draw (the sum of all amps\X overs\eq's) to that specific cable.

- Lenght of the cable (Ex. If you are running the cable from the Batt to the rear of the car, about 15 feet on a FC)

- Those two numbers will tell you what gauge you need, based on a table (Total Max Amps draw & and the Lenght of the cable)

You don't do this by guessing, and remember a 4 gauge cable might be cheaper than another 4 gauge cable, but remember you get what you pay. Compare the Cable strands" between brands before forking $100 on a gauge 4 cable!!

I'll try to get that table for you....

BTW - Most cables going from the fuse panel ( junction block with fuses) aren't longer than 3 feet, so there is no need to run anything larger than a 8 gauge cable from the junction\fuse block to the amps (8 gauge cable per amp that is); unless your total amp dra\lenght of cable requires it

Elio (not an installer anymore, but still remember my stuff )

 

Here I found "the chart"

http://www.teamamp.com/papers/wirechart.html

and another

http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/cablecalc.html

Although the bigger the better for the main power cable (the one from the batt to the fuse\junction box) applies in this situation.

I DON'T recomend using a 8 gauge cable for the main one, even if that's what the table says. The reason to this is that later on you might (and if you are a car guy, YOU WILL) want to "upgrade" or add on. I've seen it too many times.

Hope this helps!!

 

Thanks for all the help guys. Hey Tony, if I get a cap. then I don't need a block? Because I might get one because if my GFs lights start to dim and stuff she won't like that(I wouldn't either).

 

A cap won't help you there....

BTW - If you do get a cap, connect it to the fuse\junction block.

 

What do you mean it won't help me?

 

If the lights start to dim, the cap won't help you in that aspect. For a better understanding of a cap:

http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm

Its hard for me to explain this in my own words in my second language

 

Here is where I read up on them before:

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...95LS05&o=m&a=0

 

It will actually help your amp, but not the lights. Crutchfield is basically implying that it will help your dimming lights problem, but it is not saying word by word that it will solve the problem.

Call them and have them state that the cap will solve your dimming lights problem in, so that you have proof when you try to get your $$$ back.

In my experience, caps will somewhat reduce the dimming lights problem, but not by much. You will still see the lights dimm.

 

Alright, well I won't get a cap then. Why exactly would I need one anyways? That site had a little too much info, lol.

Oh and Tony, you got the block right? I am definitely interested. What kind of shape is it in?

 

Don't get me wrong, a cap might be usefull, but it is not a dim light solution. Solutions fall under either a better batt, better\bigger alt, etc.

Does your amp has built in fuses? If not a fuse block might be a better idea than the block itself.

 

Ya both amp have their own fuses and I have an inline fuse too.