I have as follows.....

1.Phoneix Gold zx 400TI amp
2.Phoneix Gold EQ
3.Mb Quart 4,6 and 6 coax for the rear might not yous them 4s and tweets in kicks9(getting installed in a week or so) .
4. 3 way comp crossovers
5.CVA 1005 Head unit Tuner/T.V.
6.PS2(its all about Grand Tourismo 3)
7.2 JL 10W3 At 4ohms
8.Alpine CD changer
9.Phoneix Gold Accesorys

What do you guys have in your rides feel free to show pics..

 

Alpine CDA-7875

Polk EX 4" front, 6 1/2" rear

Kind of rigged at the moment trying to think of a good way to make sealed enclosures for them, as well as a single or dual 10" sub box in the hatch that looks somewhat stock

 

nice pheonix gear
Got pictures?

 

2 - Diamond Audio competition 10's
ARC 400w performance amp
Memphis audio 6"
satalites
JVC Head unit

soon:
DVD Player & PS2 in Dash

 

I have
Kaption Audio 10 inch sub
MTX pro50x2 amp
Pioneer DEH-P746 HU
Stock front speakers
Fusion rear 6 1/2 inch 3 way

 

Clarion Pro audio 715
Son5 5ch amp 405-ex
Memphis audio 4" compoents in custom kick panels at feet with tweeters in the doors

Memphis Audio Studio coaxs 6 1/2 in rear

donated 12" explod woofer

amp on box sub in the 3/4" box firing against hatch,

need to figure a good way to get either 2 10's or 1 10 in the car and a way to hide the long sony amp,(or get it out of thw way) I don't wanna get rid of the storage bins or take out my spare tire. I could use some ideas

 

Here's what I have in my 89 Convertible:

- Sony CDX-M770 Black Panel head unit
- Phoenix Gold XS6600 6 channel amp
- MB Quart 4" coax under dash
- MB Quart 6.5" coax in doors
- Rockford Fosgate 10" subwoofer
- Stock headrest speakers with stock controls on center console

Everything is entirely hidden (except head unit) - the Quarts are behind the factory grills - the sub and amp are under the spare tire cover on a custom "floor" with a sub box attached underneath.

 

-POS SOny head Unit
-JL Audio 6" Above rear struts
-Polk Audios in doors and dash

Nice and light w/ decent sound. I plan on getting a new headunit, though. The system I had in my old truck cost me damn near $6K, so I really don't want to go down the audio road again!!!!

 

Clarion VRX815 head unit
Clarion DVS9755Z (In Dash DVD)
2 JBL P23T Components (center channel mounted in the rear view)
Infinity Perfect 6.1 components (doors)
Pair Infinity Kappa 42.1 (rear fill)
2 Fosgate Punch HX2 12" (rear box)
2 Fosgate Punch 250.2 amps (center and rear fills)
1 Fosgate Power 360.2 amp (components)
2 Fosgate Power BD500.1 amps (subs)
1 SVR Battery
2 1 Farad caps (digi readout)

 

Head: Pioneer DEH-P7300
Front Speakers: Memphis 6½ Mid-bass, 2 sets of Memphis 1" Tweeters
Rear Speakers: Memphis 6½ Mid-bass
Amplifier: Memphis Belle ( 5 channel; 75x4 & 1100x1 )
Subwoofers: Memphis DVC HP 12's
Signal Processor: Memphis 3-Way Crossover

Optima Yellow-Top, Stinger 1.5F Capacitor

Currently working on Fiberglass box for the 12's

 

let's get some pictures

 

WOW! You guys have like 200-300 lbs of stereo equipment! My biggest thing w/ systems, is they jack up the 50-50 weight distrubition Mazda worked so hard to get on our cars! Oh well, different strokes, right?

 

Naa I weigh 240lbs so it evens out.

 

Since acquiring my base 86 N/A in September, which had inadequate factory cassette, no rear amps, only front passenger amp, and with the left side working intermittently, I decided to upgrade. My budget for the project was around $600 and all I wanted was some decent sound I could hear at speed with a little bass at the bottom end.

I wanted a 'stealthy' setup'. The car had no spare, but I wanted one and did not want to put anything else back there. I picked an OEM wheel with tire up on eBay for $21, $15 shipping. I spent alot of time looking at all the posts here as well as all over the net looking for information and alternatives. I can definitely say I don't have as unreal a system as the all the ones I viewed, and that was very many, but it sounds good to me and thats what counts. I paid particular attention to the types of head units, amps and speakers within my budget and tried to match all the specifications together. Power draw with my 70 amp alternator was also of some concern. I set out to build with all this in mind. Just finished this weekend and here's what I ended up with. Don't laugh, like I said it sounds good to me. By the way, I purchased the HU and speakers from Crutchfied to obtain the properly matching wiring harnesses and the HU trim (which includes the pocket). Power antenna had been disconnected, all I have is a standard mast. No cut-outs for door speakers, just used dash and rear towers. No storage bins (why not???)

--Kenwood KDC-316S Head Unit, $169.95 on sale for $149.95 (with free remote). 2 sets of pre amp outs, 45 x 4 watts, reads CD-R, CD-RW (no MP3)
--Kenwood KFC-1068S, $49.95, 4" used in dash. 90watts, 18 rms, 45hz-22,000hz,90 db sens
--Kenwood KFC-1668S, $49.95, 6 1/2" in towers, 140 watts, 35 rms, 35hz-22,000hz, 92 db sens
--US Acoustics USX-4065, $138.00, 65w x 4ch, 80w x 4ch, 160w x 2ch all at 12.9 volts input, S/N 100db, hi-pass 12hz-200hz, lo-pass 40hz-200hz
--Kenwood KSC-WA62RC, $137.00, powered sub-woofer (WooX), 5 1/4" active + 6 1/2" passive speakers, 100w, 60w x 2, 30rms x 2, lo-pass at 60, 80, 120, 160hz, 35hz-1,500hz, with remote control
--Wire, connectors, RCA cables, miscellaneous install stuff, $60.00
--Shipping charges from Crutchfield, $9.95
--Total of above $614.80

After installing the HU and the speakers, all going in with a modest amount of work, and using the factory spkr wiring, I tried it all out. Improvement over what was there, but no volume or clarity without distortion. At speed, not real good. I knew I needed the amp and the introduction of some kind of bottom end. I wanted power to drive the speakers and some excess for future speaker upgrades as well, thats why I chose the amp above. And for budget it seemed to be pretty well rated.

I opened up area where bins should have been, installed amp on driver side, WooX on passenger side. Ran new spkr wire, power down driver side, spkr wire down passenger side. Drilled holes for air circulation and to let out some of the bass from the WooX. Hooked all wiring up. Re-nstalled carpet. Re-connected (-) negative battery cable after cleaning both battery terminals. Turned on HU, inserted CD tuned Xovers and levels. Prior to amp volume control max was 'bout 21-22. After amp max now 35. Clear sound, volume when required, bottom end (tunable with amp Xover, Woox adjustments) is there. All in all a vast improvement over any factory OEM eqpt. And right on budget. And I am satisfied with the result.

Thanks to all who post here with info that was useful in my installation.

 

My sub + box and amp only weights 40lbs.
I took my spare and jack out in favor of a CAA card. Weight distribution stays the same, so does overall weight of the car.

 

We still going to post up pics?
Anyone interested to see my setup?

 

To enclose the 6 1/2" in the rear you could get some of the tubs that came with the factory sterio in some of the models.

see pics in my post
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=46682

My system now has

4" dash speaker with seperate tweeters mounted up high. 6 1/2"s in the rear with a 10" free air sub in the spare tire all Fed thru a couple of amps and some cross overs. Can't remember all the details. Head unit is stock though I have altered it to have RCA preamp outputs to feed the amps (love the equalizer and the real volume ****).

 

alpine head unit
2 12" DR. crankenstine subs in custom box
4 5 1/4 alpine mids
2 MTX crossovers
2 750watt kenwood amps (really old but still work.)

 

I will post pics soon of my old temp setup (i just got a digitl camera)

 

Interesting. I tried using the stock tubs like you said but, with my speakers at least, they lost a lot of both punch and loudness. I compared with one tower tubbed and the other untouched and the one without the tub sounded much nicer.
I have no idea if this was because the speaker had more air flow or what, but you might want to try it on your setup because the original reason I didnt use the tubs was I didnt think that size speaker would have enough air.
Maybe porting the tubs for better air flow?

 

My puny little sound system consists of the following:

1) AIWA MP3R-CDR as deck
2) 2 120W Magnat midrange in the door panels
3) 2 20W Magnat tweeters on the mirror covers
4) 2 4way 200W Kenwood on the trunk cover
5) Working antennae ..........actually not so "working" now

 

Could be... Never tried it both ways. However, with the sub and the front components I don't have speakers in the struts doing much. I actually thought of leaving them out all together. I have a high pass filter on everything but the sub.

I'll give it a try though. Always trying to make things better =)

 

From Engine to trunk

(2) Optima Yellow tops
200 Amp Alternator + Silinoid
0 Guage Wire + 4 Gauge wire
HeadUnit: Clarion DRX9575rz
Processor: Clarion DPH-7500z
Speakers: (2) Pairs MBQuart PKC 116 + X-overs
(1) Pair MBQuart DTC 169
Subwoofer: (1) Digital Design 9515 Dual 1 Ohm
Capacitor: AudioBahn ACAP35X
Amplifiers: (2) AudioBahn A1300HCX
(1) AudioBahn A6601X
Box: ~9.0 Cubes

And lots of wiring.

 

Just started the install on a competition system. I will post pictures as they become available.

Head unit: Blaupunkt Honolulu CD Receiver, Blue
Amps: Orion HCCA 225 x1, 250 x2
EQ: Audio Control EQT x 2
Crossover: Audio Control 4SX
Sound Processor: Audio Control Epicenter, ESP2
Speakers: Orion HCCA 5s X2
Subs: Orion 12NT2 X 4
Batteries Optima Blue top under hood, 2 red tops in tubs
Cap: Alumapro 15 farad

 

Nakamichi CD-45Z indash - dual burr-brown DAC's
CDT Audio HD642-DT 3 way component set
OZ Audio 250L 10" DVC sub
Aura MR-4150Q amp - 2x150 and 1x330 @ 12 volts
Teflon Cat5 for speaker wire, teflon twisted pair RCA's

Pictures to follow