yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

I want to start prepping my fd for paint it has two paint jobs on it and there is no dents what grit sand paper should i start with and go down to?

Sideo

When we repainted my Honda he had me use like 100 grit to fade the big chips then we finished with 320

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

yeah that sounds about right

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

no one can answer this question based on the information you provided.

sideo says 100 then 320, that would work for single stage paint.
Basecoat/clearcoat that would be too aggressive especially a metallic color

You dont say if the car is getting primer, you dont give any information.
If you are having someone ELSE paint the car after you prep go ask them because different paints and primers require different grits.

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

It Had a dual stage paint on it. I will probly just go with a solid color not a matalic cuz i have heard that you can not wet sand a matalic paint. I am planing on painting it myself i have done bumpers and some other stuff but never a whole car thats why i would like the option of bein able to wet sand cuz it wont be perfect.

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

im going for a dual stage for my paint job as well.

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

You can wetsand any 2 stage paint. If your car is perfect sand it with 400 grit then you are ready to lay you base/clear.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

by dual stage you mean basecoat/clearcoat?

you can use any base, metallic or solid, then clear it, then polish it.
If you have not sprayed larger items stick with the solid colors, they are easier to spray

if all you are doing is "scuff and shoot" then you will want to sand with 500 grit for basecoats, gray scuff pads where it is hard to sand with paper

cten

iTrader: (8)

I would use 600 grit over the whole car and like Rob XX7 said, use a grey scuff pad in hard to reach places. If the car has already been painted twice, you might should look into taking it down a little further. too many mils of paint may cause cracking...

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

Yeah i am probly going to just go with a jet black. base and clear. I am a little worried about the fact that it has two prior paint jobs now though. I will scuff it up with 500 everywhere then come in with some 360 in the places where there are some cracks and things that need to be blended.

I have all winter to prep the car and want to do the best job possible. I was going to block sand the whole thing i think that is the best option that i have heard. then i would like to use a primer sealer then go back over and sand any high spots then shoot it.

Part of me wants to cemicaly strip all the metal but i dont know. Could find some bad stuff who knows. I have also used the aircraft paint stripper on my urithane bumpers but that crap sucks.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

You said you already have cracks? Sounds like you already have too much paint or an adhesion issue. Or both. "Scuffing" probably won't do it.
Also, if your going to change colors you need to do door and hatch jams, edges and under hood and engine compartment. Otherwise it will look like *** IMO.
Remember any flaws...clouding, too dry, too wet, dirt etc. in the base coat will be permanent with clear over them.

yourmom23

iTrader: (4)

well the cracks are on the front bumper from it hitting stuff. I dont think the paint is all that thick. I dont know maybe i will have someone else spray the car at a paint shop. I just dont have a ton of money to spend with having a family. it would just kill me to look at it another summer instead of driving it.

13bpower

Are you saying that the car has 2 resprays or just 2 coats including the factory paint? If it has the factory job and then 2 resprays already I would be a little worried. I realized my car has 1 respray last night when sanding the doors.