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rubber door seals

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Old 04-23-07 | 11:43 AM
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rubber door seals

Folks, I replaced the rubber door seals on both the drivers and passengers doors. These were replacement seals from Mazda...they installed with no problems, however I ran the car through a brushless carwash...you know just the sprayer type...and I got a FREE shower! I was soaked! when the wash cycle finished...I hit the dryer...like I was in the middle of a hurricane! when the door is actually closed I can easily slip 6-7 sheets of 8.5 X11 bond paper between the rubber seals and the roof of the car! Can anyone tell me if these rubbers came in different sizes for different years?...is there aftermarket ones that would seal better? or does anyone happen to have an extra set kicking around?
Soaked in Nova Scotia!
Paul
Old 04-23-07 | 11:46 AM
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Try black dragon, I need to get a set meself.
Old 04-23-07 | 11:51 AM
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The black dragon parts work great, but the factory seals should as well. Are you sure you've got the seals in the grooves in the doors correctly?

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/new-door-seals-every-25-years-603830/
Old 04-23-07 | 12:12 PM
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Yeah, they just slide in the groove and plud in the provided holes. do you think there are different sizes for different years
Old 04-23-07 | 12:18 PM
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don't know about your seals but are there any good RX7 mechanics In NS?
I'm in fredericton and can't find one.
Old 04-23-07 | 12:19 PM
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If your leak is only at the tops of the doors, it's often because of the way people open and close them. Chances are the window frames need to be bent back into place. It's not hard to do, but it does take care and practice. Do not tweak the frames with the glass up, it's a good way to shatter them.

Before you adjust anything, close the door and check the door gaps all the way around. If the gaps are askew between the front/rear and top/bottom, the the hinges need adjusting. Then try the paper trick around the entire door gasket. If it's only gapping only on the window frame, bend that back in. If it's gapping at the door panel itself, then the striker and hinges will need adjusting.
Old 04-23-07 | 12:22 PM
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^ what he said. And I've never had a problem with factory seals, uh, sealing.
Old 04-23-07 | 12:23 PM
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Hey Thunder, I havent really found one here locally...I did hear that one of the Mechanics at City Mazda in Halifax used to race 7's and is pretty around them...I'm still trying to track him down. I'm looking at wanting to get my R.B Holly flow tested as I think it runs way too rich. that being said...a Holly is a Holly and if you can track an old drag racer down he should be able to assist me in this...as for the other stuff...I just do it myself...plugs oil etc.
Old 04-23-07 | 12:39 PM
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thanks litre eater, i might have to track him down also.
Old 04-23-07 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 litre eater
Yeah, they just slide in the groove and plud in the provided holes. do you think there are different sizes for different years
I don't believe there was ever a part number change.
Old 04-23-07 | 09:11 PM
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I'd take it down to a local body/paint shop. Shouldn't take them long to have a look and either re-set it on its hinges or adjust the window frame, and they're more used to doing it.

At least, that's what I'd do... having fought with hanging a set of doors on a friend's 7.

Jon
Old 04-24-07 | 10:29 AM
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thanks Jon,
Paul
Old 04-24-07 | 11:48 AM
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If it's serious and the hinges and door need adjusting the shop is probably a good idea, but it only takes a few minutes to loosen and ajust the door latch (the hook part, on the body) so you might want to try that first. I was getting a lot of wind noise and could see some daylight around the top edge, even with a new set of seals. Just moving that latch in a few mm made it nice and tight.

Also the door seals sold by A1 on ebay are not as expensive as the Mazda ones (about half as much as I recall) and they work fine.

Ray
Old 04-24-07 | 12:33 PM
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In my case the doors where missaligned and they also fell down when you used to open them
Old 04-24-07 | 12:42 PM
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I was getting a lot of wind noise and could see some daylight around the top edge, even with a new set of seals. Just moving that latch in a few mm made it nice and tight.

Also the door seals sold by A1 on ebay are not as expensive as the Mazda ones (about half as much as I recall) and they work fine.

Ray


A1 is good stuff...good info, Ray, thanks! I've got a little whistle in the 84 and I have no idea why I never thought about adjusting the door itself...lol

Old 04-24-07 | 01:58 PM
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i got mine from parts america pretty much the same stuff as A1 auto but i got them 10 bucks cheaper.
Old 04-24-07 | 02:41 PM
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Here's a photo of the latch to adjust to make the door fit tighter, just loosen those two large phillips screws, move it in a bit and tighten it back down:



If you move it in too far you'll have to slam the door to get it to latch, so it might take a little trial and error to get it "just right" but still it's easy and only takes a few minutes.

Yeah Mario, I don't know why I didn't think of it sooner either, I had fixing that wind noise on my list of things to do for months. I had all kinds of scenarios going through my head about what needed to be done, but it turned out moving that latch did it. Sometimes I wonder how I can be so dense and still fix my own cars and teach biochemistry.

While we are on the subject of door rubber, does anyone know of a good source other than mazda for the outside rubber seals for the windows? Mazda gets about $20 each, I bought them once and have been moving my good set from car to car (easy to take off and install) but if I could get some cheaper aftermaket ones I get some for each car.

Ray
Old 04-24-07 | 03:23 PM
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AND THE LIGHTS CAME ON!
I had my car repainted last fall and everything was stripped....glass, door handles LATCHES!
Why the hell didn't I pick up on this
Folks, can't thank you all enough...I'll get back to taking showers in the house as opposed to the car wash.
Regards,
Paul




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