I bought an ic duct last night from a local rx-7 owner. He had this battery from rotary extreme. And while I've seen this battery on many cars http://www.rotaryextreme.com/minibattery.html chucks polished battery tray is just a work of art. I think $250.00 is a bit $$$ for any battery, but damn this thing was so sweet and you can see your radiator fan!

I've decided this is my next mod. This is 100 pct complete Bling Blingness.

 

Yeah, I really want one of those myself, although I'd prob get the tray only (non-polished) and polish it myself + d my own pc680. The thing holding me back other than funds is the fact that there is no tie-down. Chuck had told one of my friends to use a rubber cement-type material to hold it down, as the sides do not come up high enough to keep the battery from wanting to come out
I guess it wouldn't be too hard to bend a piece of alum & drill some holes, but ya know...

 

you're dumb zerobanger, you blacked out all that stuff under your hood, and now you want bling?

make up your mind!

 

 

too bad it drains if not driven daily

 

Yup, That's why I have a battery charger.

 

Just dont let it sit for a week...

 

i would recommend going with the other battery tray that some guy on here was selling a while back that lets you use a honda battery. i was running a honda battery in my fd for a few months, and i had no problems with drainage or cold starts. its not as bling, but its only about 1/5th the price.

 

I already have a 51R. I want this small battery.

 

100$ optima battery, $125 or so for the summit kit. The engine bay looks nice w/o a battery.

 

7-sins, that is definitely a good alternative to the rear bin that people usually relocate it to, BUT a prob that comes up for SoCal ppl is that we need an external kill switch for all relocated batteries if we want to hit the 1/4 mile Do you happen to have one?

*Similar to the rear diffuser, this is an easy target for ***** to f*ck with the car when you aren't there...

 

Yeah I have a kill switch not external though, that black box... its a 15 amp breaker or something. Damn I thought I had it bad in VA with laws against car stuff...

 

I used a PC680 for over 2 years with the car often sitting for 2 weeks at a time. Never had a problem. Now if you sit and listen to the stereo with the engine off, it would drain pretty fast.

After setting the battery up for several months while changing motors it died, called Hawker about the 3yr warranty. They referred me to the local dealer and got me a new battery free of charge - no pro-rating.

As for $250 from RE or $240 fron N-Tech, go to batterymart.com and get the PC680MJ for $95 (comes with a metal box, btw - Hawker uses silicone to hold the battery in the box) and weld a bracket on the bottom of the box for mounting. Paint it, polish it, whatever and walk away with some cash in your pocket.

Jack

 

actually you get the battery for around 115< included shippin>
you will also need another fee to get the post on the positive and negative. now if you know how to operate a cnc machine, i got one in my house, took almost 1/4 of my garage. you will make a battery tray by yourself, then spend another few dough on the polish..
my car can sit in the garage for a week as long you dun have any aftermarket alarm dat drain hells of cell from ur battery. um..juz do it THE WAY YOU WANT

William

 

Roar629: I don't have the slightest clue what you are saying ....must be Norcal lingo

Trout2: Thanks! I just checked up on their website, and here are the current costs:
$85 for the battery/metal tray
$15 shipping
$12.95 for the automotive terminal adapters

SWEET DEAL! I'mma have to get this in the next month or so, and prob keep it in the engine bay so I can go dragging when I'm ready to again.

 

yea...so forget bout my post..it's stupid..i dun even get it myself lol

 

It was your battery and tray that I saw that makes me want one!!! Looks so nice!!!

How is your car? Any updates?

 

idle.. it was jumpin up and down on my way home, then a bog from my exhaust, then she went dead..tryin to figure it out..

 

7-sins, that's not track legal

 

did you do any work in the engine the day before? it could be a vaccuum line or map sensor....

 

no... i start the car and it went dead from a jumpy idle, then start again, same thing happen. sigh

 

One day I was tried to take my manifold off and I broked a check valve or some selenoid. My car would idle jumpy, it was really bad. IT would stall if I didnt' keep my revs above 3000.

It acted the same as when my engine went out.

How many miles did you say you had on your engine? You said that the 3000 RPM startup did not happen when you started the car. Maybe that means some vaccuum hose came loose? I dunno.

 

Didn't have a problem at Spring MADS

 

I don't get why a 51R in the stock location with turbojeff tray is not good.

The FD is a tad bit lighter in the front and even more weight bias in the rear with full tank and full passenger load.

That does not make any sense to me to install the battery in the rear of the car.

 

The 51R battery wouldn't fit with my Blitz FMIC and I am not too sure if it would work with any other FMIC. I guess when the radiator is in the upright positioned; it take up a lot of space especially if you have a koyo or a Fluidyne.