Never knew a system could do this...
#26
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
But if the teacher wrote a little note by it saying "nice try dumbass" or "what an idiot," I'd be liable to introduce his jaw to my right fist...
#27
Originally Posted by DamonB
Anyone who uses the words "Bose" and "crisp bass" in the same sentence should be shot You cannot get something for free in audio either and there is no real technology involved in Bose systems, they just have better commercials. Bose systems are nothing more than (poorly) implemented ported and/or bandpass systems.
(again WTF is that? Who and claims this is needed and where are they?)
If you think I'm crazy ask rynberg. My understanding is that he gets paid to know stuff like this.
Originally Posted by DamonB
I should start doing that. My responses everywhere on the forum would be much shorter and save me a lot of time
~Ramy
PS: Thanks for the clarification. I think you should know by know I'm not afraid of being wrong as long as it helps me learn what's right
#28
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Wow...I guess I learn something new everyday. I was under the impression that it (Bose) was pretty solidly engineered stuff.
http://www.intellexual.net/bose.html
#29
Originally Posted by DamonB
Waves do not mature! WTF is that??? Somebody somewhere is inventing new terms to describe things they don't understand. The wavefront is created at the speaker cone and from that point on it is constantly decaying. It has to; you can't magically add power to the wavefront after it's been created.
Originally Posted by DamonB
This is true of ANY environment, it's noT somehow different in cars and it's not somehow harder or different to fix. What matters is the relative position of speaker and listener in the environment and that's why we always come back to placement, placement, placement. There is no way to fix an inherent placement (interference) problem other than to move the speaker or listener or use true digital DSP that allows altering of the phase response.
Originally Posted by DamonB
You CANNOT prevent waves from bouncing off surfaces unless you are inside an anechoic chamber
Originally Posted by DamonB
You also CANNOT fix interference with any sort of equalization because the interference problem is fundamental to the phase domain and equalization only makes changes in the power domain.
Basically, I learned my lesson about posting an incomplete response...if I want to be informative I have to be more thorough. I am still wondering about your old mobile setup, though. Any info on how you ran that?
#30
Originally Posted by DamonB
That's why in the very beginning I built a simple enclosure with a single 10 incher. The entire enclosure, driver and amp mounted to it can't weigh over 30 pounds and it doesn't eat up the trunk space either.
You don't need 600 watts to be loud or have great sound quality, in fact you don't need near as much power as everyone will insist. 600 watts in the enclosed cabin of a car???? Crazy! When we had a mobile DJ in college we were shaking entire gymnasiums with 800 watts. Not merely playing loud, shaking. If that amp really put out 600 watts you'd be pulling 50+ amps through it's power cable...
You don't need 600 watts to be loud or have great sound quality, in fact you don't need near as much power as everyone will insist. 600 watts in the enclosed cabin of a car???? Crazy! When we had a mobile DJ in college we were shaking entire gymnasiums with 800 watts. Not merely playing loud, shaking. If that amp really put out 600 watts you'd be pulling 50+ amps through it's power cable...
#31
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Originally Posted by Corusco
Sorry for the misnomer. I should have said that a wave requires distance to complete its cycle.
Waves "maturing" or "completing its cycle" is complete and utter nonsense. It's merely an attribute of the frequency.
Last edited by DamonB; 03-28-06 at 09:15 AM.
#32
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Originally Posted by blackangst
You are like most people who believe more watts = louder. Partially true, but more importantly more watts = cleaner.
A watt is a unit of power that equals volts X amps. If a car audio amp were truly making 600W and the battery of the car could sustain 13 volts (highly unlikely that the voltage wouldn't sag) then the amplifier is pulling 46 amps through its power cable. Actually it's pulling more than that because amps are not 100% efficient; they waste a lot of energy to heat. So if it were to actually make 600 W at the output it would be pulling somewhere over 50 amps of current. Anybody with a clamp on amp meter can tell you that amplifier isn't pulling 50 amps. Oh! you say, but music is dynamic! It only pulls that amount of current for an instant in time! True. But if the amp is only capable of putting out 600 W for a tiny instant you don't have a 600 W amp.
The only "groundbreaking" stuff in amplifiers to hit car audio in the last 10 years has been the idea you need 1000 W. It's complete horseshit. There are movie theaters that run on 1000 W! In the "old days" when people spoke in real power ratings and the best stuff was built by A/D/S, Soundstream and Precision Power nobody built anything nearly that big and car audio was just as loud and sounded just as good (or better) than it does now. Don't believe everything you read in the little glossy brochures.
You can very easily and cheaply design a speaker that won't blow up when you put 1000 watts through and that means absolutely nothing other than impressing the consumers who have decided that more, more, more is always better.
Last edited by DamonB; 03-28-06 at 09:14 AM.
#33
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As far as subwoofer frequencies are concerned, there are virtually no concerns over reflections and boundary interferences in a car. In most car cabins, there is no wave propagation below 70-80 Hz. Instead, the entire volume of the car is pressurized -- just like the inside of a speaker enclosure. This results in a "room gain" of approximately 12dB/octave, which is why a 10" driver in a small sealed enclosure can still provide good response down to infrasonic regions. That same driver/enclosure in your living room would be well down in response by 40 Hz.
#34
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Oh, and Damon's right about Watts.....if the sub in my home theater can generate over 110 dB at the listening position with only a 250W amp, how much power do you need for a car system?
#35
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Hmmm... didn't mean for this thread to turn into something like this...
Just to let you guys know, the 10W7/box is going to be sold if the guy on here still wants it. If not, then the beginning of my fiberglass box/amp rack/false floor has already started, I'll start a new thread on it, once I get started.
Just to let you guys know, the 10W7/box is going to be sold if the guy on here still wants it. If not, then the beginning of my fiberglass box/amp rack/false floor has already started, I'll start a new thread on it, once I get started.
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