havenst bought any yet! Cant decide...NO ONE WILL HELP ME!! I put a couple posts in the audio forum...but got no respose...anyway, the money went different ways, but ill have more soon. Im thinking MTX Thunder 8000's. also i started to carpet the amp box, ill post pics when im done ( i got distracted)

~T.J.

 

pm and well talk,if i dont have what you need then pm mike p.

 

Read your PMs, I had some stuff in there as alternatives that still bump most mightily and are very cost effective...don't let your new B-Day present render this project dormant...

 

funky looking kick panels to hold large mids and tweets
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ndexURL=0&rd=1

 

Ok I have to ask why? There are plenty of places to put speakers in a RX-7 .. Why go with a kick panel like that?

I mean you can already get a 5 1/4 in the kick panel with no metal cutting, just make a new front piece and mount it on the outside of the panel and use their grills, then put the tweeter in the air vent. I just understand the point of putting a tweet 5 feet down below the driver. Not mention getting dirt in it, kicking it by accident etc.. Just my opinion...

 

Funny looking is right...oof, those are ugly...you've got curves all over the exterior and interior of the car and then suddenly, these horrendous right-angles-only boxes in the corners...I like my solution better ...





Freakin' dirty interior...I gotta get a new shot where it's all clean, this is almost embarrasing...

 

its for imaging mike,its called point source.

oh here ya go
click me me click me me me me click on me you wanna click me CLICK ME ALREADY

 

Yeah thanks, I had read them when you sent them, I was just looking for other alternatives as well. I was just trying to gather as many opinions as I could. Aslo, unfourtunatly, my new b'day present IS going to set back my sub box a while . See, I have no job (GOTTA GET ONE!!) so the money I had for the subs and amp is now going into the engine because I'm fairly sure it needs rebuilt .

~T.J.

 

Imagining? Ok let me remove my ears and put them on my feet, oops maybe my waist there angled a little

 

I can't seem to get my ears to stay on my feet... Plus now I can't put on a shoe...

 

There is always going to be a fight on where the best place to put speakers in a first gen, its does come down to personal preference/easy of placement.
Most people will use 4" speakers in the stock location, maybe have some tweeters elsewhere.
some will build out a bit and put 5.25 or even 6.5 down there.
you can also use the doors to mount them, I just don't like the idea of slamming the cone everytime you close the door, and you have to protect them from weather a bit more than kickpanel speakers.
you can put your tweeters in the kicks, on the dash, in the vents, or up on the a pillar.
Some will have more sound coming from the rear, than the front.

Now how I like my stereo (Personal choice)
I have my subs all the way back in the taillight area (2 8's)
I have 5.25"s in the stock rear location, very low volume for fill.
I have 6.5" in my kickpanels (Modified Qforms)
http://max7.rx-7.org/image/left_speaker.jpg
http://max7.rx-7.org/image/right_speaker.jpg
they were coaxial, but the new ones will be componets, with the tweeter in the kick for now, I might experiment with the tweet in the corners of the dash, I just don't want to slap them on there, so I will need to build them into the bottom of the a pillar or sumthin.
I like the sound of my system, its very loud from the front. and has good clean sound to it, I don't have many issues with my leg blocking the sound. its seems very balanced left to right.
also some will find issue with the missing dead pedal, I've rarly ever used one, so its no biggy for me.
and they have grills to protect from the ocasional foot.

Try experimenting with differnet placements, your ears will know what you like.

 

Damn, I've been looking for this thread. ******* search being off.

I don't think slamming the door will have any effect on the cone, I used the same 6.5'' in my doors in each car except one, delivering pizza, over three years. I alwyas mounted the same one on the drivers side when I changed them out (kinda doing my own little test), and I never had any problem out of either of them. They are in the doors of my Protege still.

 

Wellll...
I waded through the "My thirty years experience tells me otherwise, and I'm almost 25, whipper-snapper..." ****;
and the "Lowes sucks 'cause they don't have buttons on their vests..." ****,
And mar3 being a silly wabbit turning Trix for kids in rexes_

I have'nt learned a ****** thing here! (I'm totally kidding!)

RotorMotorDriver...Get a shorter ****** NAME, man!
I think you did a great job, dude. I always applaud the efforts of the pennyless, even if it turns out crappy; But I really like the job you did!

I just got done two days ago with the two-day-long nightmare of installing my new $140 Sony "no-bullshit...just a disc" CD player along with a Jenson two channel 300Watt amp.
Still stock speakers in the front, hooked up to the stereo internal amp, and RCA cables from the rear non-amped channels from the stereo to the Jenson, and then to two 10 inch Peavey speakers. (I play bass, so I yanked them from one of my cabinets...I thought it would be cool to take a bass amp head and install it in the car... "BooomBooom-RYCE BOYEEE!" - No man, I'm way ****** kiddin! Get a grip!)

Anyway, the speakers did'nt look all that big till I set them in the car! They're ****** HUGE! See, I was gonna make aluminum doors for the stow-boxes, and just mount the speakers in, but they are too big. Plus the battery is in one.
They are just laying in the corners in the back.

Problems I'm having...Ignition noise...Read the Jenson manual - afterwards, of course; and I ran the amp input and amp power wires too close together, and parallel. Is that really what's going on? Any quick remedy or trick other than taking my friggin seat out again and all that **** just to re-route the wires?

Also my power antena does'nt want to work with the strereo, even though there is a lead for it. The damn thing it tired and heavy anyways, so I might just yank it for a simple light one. But is there something I'm missing? I raised it, and disconnected the power to it at the motor, so it's always up.
Not the biggest deal, really.

Now the Amp...
How good is a Jenson? (XA 3022Lx model)
I got it as a gift from my brother. I usually go by the advertisement on the box - crossreferenced with the "specs" chart when I decide if a product is fulla ****. But I don't know this stuff at all. It says:
@ 4 ohms, it's 75 watts per channel RMS,
@ 2 ohms, it's 100 watts per channel RMS.
@ 4 ohms bridged, it's 200 watts per channel RMS.
I'm just running two woofers; nothing bridged.
Crossover is set to "Flat".
There is this "Input Sensitivity Control" ****. I don't really understand what it does at all.

You guys surely can help, right?

In the booklet, it says that bass sound can be improved by reversing the polarity of one of the woofers.
What happens dynamically when you do that (waves and that ****?) Does one become less responsive to the bass? Is the revesed one being worked harder?

 

Dude I used to run power wire seperate of the rca's. When at work, I loom everything together now, I havent had a problem with engine noise in over 8 years. Of course amps are way better than they used to be. And I wont install cheaper brands at work cuz of this problem. Well anyways, with Alpine, PPI, Sony, Kenwwod, JL audio amps, MTX, Pioneer, and Rockfords I never have any problem... Now as far as Pyramid and stuff like that, I just tell people im not really interested in doing them, if they insist I tell them about noise problems and if they still want me to do, I do w/o a guarantee on that or anything else. Too many people here just bring crap in and expect it to be 100%, guess what you pay 100 bucks for an amp that is rated at 1000 watts, thats what your gonna get a 50 watt amp with noise... Just my opinion after messing with them...

By the way Jensen seems to be OK, at least the new amps. I do a lot of them from the local Wal Mart store

 

Thanks...anyone on the other stuff?
I've come up with a few more, too:
I don't know what resistance the 10 ichers are, but the cabinet that they came out of was for my bass amp. They were in with an 18 inch speaker (which I now just use that to play bass with). But in the back, you could patch the amp into just the 18 incher, or to all three speakers bridged (I guess). The only thing it says on the back of that crossover is that it is 4 ohms when all are in use.

Can anyone tell me from that what the resistance in ohms is of my 10 speakers is? (also, I can't remember if those two were hooked up in parallel or series. Give me "either" scenerio, and the most likely one. please)

And about the ignition noise; I currently run direct fire system as per Jeff20Bs instructions. I have no doubt that this is a contributing factor.
Remedies?
I don't understand how sheilding works; like in a shielded cable, ect. The noise does'nt increase with volume, but sometimes I like it low through town.

 

...they simply bite, 'nuff said...

_


where's the love, man??



Go back and re-read the section dealing with the sound waves being able to go around an unboxed speaker and cancelling themselves out...gotta box it, man, somehow, and you don't want to mess with any material that can, itself, become a vibrating surface, ie. aluminum, plywood, real wood, plastic....stick with tried and true MDF, particle board as a last resort...


It is a distinct possibility. Try running a choke near the alternator and see if that doesn't solve all of the whining..


Is i stock? I've seen examples that run ground back to the stereo via the plug...when you put in the Sony, that grounds to chassis, so the antenna now needs to be grounded to chassis in order to close the loop with the antenna lead from the Sony...by the way, damn good choice for a headunit...


I'm gonna let the sleeping dog lie on this one, but I will say this much...any good amp will be able to almost double its output wattage when the resistive load is halved....

Set it now to "LPF" or low pass immediately, silly rabbit...if you,ve got a rotary x-over dial, set it to about 150 Hz for now...



It's just like the "gain" on your Peavey amps. Set the gain to 1/4 full and then crank your headunit until you hear distortion. Turn down the headunit a little past the point where the distortion disappears and then turn the gain on the amp up until you hear distortion again. Set it back a little from THAT point and you're in the rough ballpark until you can get an oscilloscope like I dones got!!


If only one of the speakers is reversed and they are, indeed, in the corners, the two wave forms will cancel each other out...what I think they meant was to reverse the polarity on both speakers so they'll be in phase with your front soundstage. This is something you just have to experiment with to see if you do get an improvement...


Quit killing us with these monster posts that require too much thought and time to read as well as reply to!! I've gotta get some work done here at SBC...I just got stuck on the Saturday shift... Hope all this helps, sterling, now go get that turbo! They say a TII manifold will fit a 12A!! Hoorah!! Throw that Eaton away!!

 

7 pages and counting...

I hate these monster posts too! Too much to read... Most of the time i just skip them

 

I'm with FuLLsMoKe, this thread has become too long, I find myself skipping alot of the good info all too often. Oh well, it beats having noone respond.

 

Thanks, wabbit!

 

I'm so proud that I actually started something this large ...Anyway, when I actually have the money to finish this project, complete with amp and subs, 100% done, Ill start a new thread "Just Finished Designing My Sub Box Today...Part 2" What do you all think? Im sure itll be a while before I can actually finish it because I need an engine for my car right now .

~T.J.

 

http://www.geocities.com/gslguy/12sbox.jpg

that's a pic of the box we designed a built about 3 or 4 years ago for 2 JL audio 12w4's

the box was built to replace the bins and the drivers were angled in the box to face the hatch glass. aiming the drivers directly at the glass allowed us to effectively use the hatch as an addition to the ported box we built. the box was glassed into place and the port took some work to get the right length on... with the two twelves and 600 watts provided by one PPI PC2150 dedicated to the subs i was able to hit 147db - at the time that was quite a bit of noise to be making with only 2 12's and 600 peak watts! :-)

good luck,

Ray

ps, the entire system was stolen not too long ago and unfortunately that's all i have in the way of pictures.

 

Could you post this Pic? GeoShitties won't let me see it.



Thanks

 

Geocities scrapped it because it was a heavily massaged photo, I heard from a bird....

 

Geocities sucks for pictures, you have to copy the link and paste it in the address bar...

 

What size are those?