Just Finished Designing My Sub Box Today
#52
Originally posted by brownmound
So if you have a complete standalone sealed sub box that simply "fits in" into one of the storage compartment spaces, can you get this space to work?
So if you have a complete standalone sealed sub box that simply "fits in" into one of the storage compartment spaces, can you get this space to work?
Last edited by mar3; 03-01-02 at 07:02 PM.
#53
Is the box completely built outside to be placed into a completely gutted bin storage area? If not, then undercoating is not gonna cut it because you don't have a true box. Any surface not 3/4" MDF that the subs airspace has contact with is going to become passive radiators of your "box" especially since it won't be ported! Where are the darn pics, ya bum? Surely by now, you've got that digital camera figured out?! Inquiring minds are dying to see!!
So if you have a complete standalone sealed sub box that simply "fits in" into one of the storage compartment spaces, can you get this space to work?
~T.J.
#54
Your OTHER house?? And you can't afford to pick up a new digital camera for us slobs here at the Forum?? Jes' teasin', bro' I'll leave you alone on the picture business and wait patiently for the pics to dribble out like fresh news from Dubya's war room!
#57
Originally posted by MIKE-P-28
Why build a box for 6X9's? If you are gonna put them in the Rex, just cut out the 6 1/2 holes in the back. My 85 has Cerwin Vega 3 way 6X9's... But those 4 way Pioneer 6X9's are SLEDGEHAMMERS! They freaking rock... By the way I can get the TSA6995 4 way 300w 6X9's for $100 / pr plus shipping. There like 180 retail...
Why build a box for 6X9's? If you are gonna put them in the Rex, just cut out the 6 1/2 holes in the back. My 85 has Cerwin Vega 3 way 6X9's... But those 4 way Pioneer 6X9's are SLEDGEHAMMERS! They freaking rock... By the way I can get the TSA6995 4 way 300w 6X9's for $100 / pr plus shipping. There like 180 retail...
BTW the 6x9s that I was using were 'T6956, with an 'X302 amplifier. Sadly when I gutted the stereo from the SECOND T-Bird that I had it in, I put them in a box, and the box fell over and one of the cones was destroyed
IIRC the speakers were $150 new, but this was in 1996... I got my first real job and spent my entire first paycheck on goodies P4400 tape deck (still workin' great, never got 'round to getting a CD changer) the aforementioned speakers and amp, and 4 megs of memory for my computer. (Back then 1-meg SIMMs were $40 apiece - $160 for 4 megs)
#59
Well, I was really hoping to get more progress on this tonight than I did...I had a small set back, my Grandmas house caught on fire . Anyway, all is well and only one room was ruined (candle left burning). Anyway, I got here around 10:45, snapped a couple pics of the car, and drew out my designs on the wood getting ready for tommorow to cut (neighbors ). Ill attach a few pic so you can see the car with the interior all torn out...Nothing cool though.
#61
Heres a shot of the nifty mahogany (sp) Grant steering wheel ($250, came with the car ). You can even see my drivers seat which is in emaculate condition . Although, the passenger seat really is mint.
#62
Heres a pic of the CD player in it's home. It was put there all by myself . The ring around it all was already broken (dont know if you can see it in the pic). When we got the car, the guy before us bought a radio from the junk yard and tried to put it in, but it came out of a 88 Maxima so it didnt exactly fit and he broke the ring . He wasnt the brightest of people...So when we got it the radio was wedged in there so tight I thought it was actually bolted in, and you could see hammer marks on the front from where he pounded it in . Anyway, I salvaged her, and heres the "finished" product...
~T.J.
~T.J.
#63
I could eat this stuff up all day...I don't know what it is about projects in the making, but I love seeing the "during" photos of a real person's project as opposed to an unlimited budget Car Craft or SuperStreet build-up...one thing, though...did you say wood? Real wood isn't even used in home systems anymore except in high-end speakers which cater to rich clientele that think there is some advantage to real wood. There is not. It might be a little more water-resistant than MDF, but it WILL resonate with a high powered system unless you cross brace the interior. There's a reason all competition systems use MDF. I tried using real wood in my first big rex sound sytem. It was quite a surprise to see bubbles forming under the vinyl skin after we got into a Texas summer. The SAP in the damn boards had actually leached out of the wood from the intense heat! Go with MDF, avoid the wood or particle board pitfall...keep those pictures rolling! And thanks for feeding an obsession!!
#64
Originally posted by FuLLsMoKe
argh... i've got a 12" sub... I think i'm gonna juat have to make a normal sealed box
any ideas?
argh... i've got a 12" sub... I think i'm gonna juat have to make a normal sealed box
any ideas?
never ever go with a single subwoofer,ill give you 2 reasons any audiphile will argue.
yes i know space is at stake,but so is money here.
here are two damn good reasons to go with 2 subwoofers over one,
1:2 subwoofers do the work of three,just like two people do the work of three,install 2 subwoofers and disconnect one,then reconnect,it will not get twice as loud,it will get three times as loud.again i have a mecp masters degree if anyone would like to challange me.i graduated from installers institute in florida.
2:any amp nowadays is capable of a 2 ohm load,chances are your 12" sub is 4ohm,so say you have an 800 watt amp,800 watt @ 2 ohm,if you run at 4 ohm your getting more like 400 watt out of it.200 rms,unless were talking about a brand like fosgate that does not rate by their max,rather their rms,but same still applies.
the best box for a 1st gen or any hatch is a hatch back box,thus its name.
with your 2 12's loaded push the box all the way back till it hits the rear hatch struts,for mounting i found removing the spare tire,then using the spare tire bolt to hold down the box works perect.
you will be amazed how any bullshit in a box system sounds in the hatch of an rx7.
true these are not the greatest cars for flawless sounds,but when it comes to raw bass the only car that is more perfectly designed is a second gen.
if you wish me to back up why i say there designed perfect i will,but right now i dont have time to take pics of my car tunes db drag racing trophys from my very first 1st gen rx7.it had 2 12"s janoba fires with 2 10" jbl gtx series woofers.it actually hit a higher db with the 2 12" alone.
#65
Originally posted by mar3
I could eat this stuff up all day...I don't know what it is about projects in the making, but I love seeing the "during" photos of a real person's project as opposed to an unlimited budget Car Craft or SuperStreet build-up...one thing, though...did you say wood? Real wood isn't even used in home systems anymore except in high-end speakers which cater to rich clientele that think there is some advantage to real wood. There is not. It might be a little more water-resistant than MDF, but it WILL resonate with a high powered system unless you cross brace the interior. There's a reason all competition systems use MDF. I tried using real wood in my first big rex sound sytem. It was quite a surprise to see bubbles forming under the vinyl skin after we got into a Texas summer. The SAP in the damn boards had actually leached out of the wood from the intense heat! Go with MDF, avoid the wood or particle board pitfall...keep those pictures rolling! And thanks for feeding an obsession!!
I could eat this stuff up all day...I don't know what it is about projects in the making, but I love seeing the "during" photos of a real person's project as opposed to an unlimited budget Car Craft or SuperStreet build-up...one thing, though...did you say wood? Real wood isn't even used in home systems anymore except in high-end speakers which cater to rich clientele that think there is some advantage to real wood. There is not. It might be a little more water-resistant than MDF, but it WILL resonate with a high powered system unless you cross brace the interior. There's a reason all competition systems use MDF. I tried using real wood in my first big rex sound sytem. It was quite a surprise to see bubbles forming under the vinyl skin after we got into a Texas summer. The SAP in the damn boards had actually leached out of the wood from the intense heat! Go with MDF, avoid the wood or particle board pitfall...keep those pictures rolling! And thanks for feeding an obsession!!
i agree 100% on this,i only use mdf 3/4" thick to 1" thick,if you cant afford mdf then at least chose 5/8 particle board over real wood.
#66
3 times as loud? time for you to hit the books again
Originally posted by V8kilr
.........1:2 subwoofers do the work of three,just like two people do the work of three,install 2 subwoofers and disconnect one,then reconnect,it will not get twice as loud,it will get three times as loud.again i have a mecp masters degree if anyone would like to challange me.i graduated from installers institute in florida........
.........1:2 subwoofers do the work of three,just like two people do the work of three,install 2 subwoofers and disconnect one,then reconnect,it will not get twice as loud,it will get three times as loud.again i have a mecp masters degree if anyone would like to challange me.i graduated from installers institute in florida........
#67
Originally posted by V8kilr
the best box for a 1st gen or any hatch is a hatch back box,thus its name.
with your 2 12's loaded push the box all the way back till it hits the rear hatch struts,for mounting i found removing the spare tire,then using the spare tire bolt to hold down the box works perect.
you will be amazed how any bullshit in a box system sounds in the hatch of an rx7.
the best box for a 1st gen or any hatch is a hatch back box,thus its name.
with your 2 12's loaded push the box all the way back till it hits the rear hatch struts,for mounting i found removing the spare tire,then using the spare tire bolt to hold down the box works perect.
you will be amazed how any bullshit in a box system sounds in the hatch of an rx7.
#68
1st gen box
Originally posted by Max7
The best location I have found, and it can rattle your teeth despite its size!
http://max7.rx-7.org/image/rear_speakers.jpg
The best location I have found, and it can rattle your teeth despite its size!
http://max7.rx-7.org/image/rear_speakers.jpg
Max7 ,
I like this idea for a box. Did you make this or buy it?
How much?
I would like to do this also. I thought about removing the stock rear 6.5 speakers and cutting the hole bigger for 8" speakers. But really like this idea better
#69
Re: 1st gen box
I was planning to make my own and just happen to see it on eBay, they were made by Zbox in the 80's and came with the 8" woofer, 3.5" mid and tweeter, I removed the mid & tweet and fiberglassed over the holes.
I looked it over and seen what was involved in making one, wow! they did thier homework, its such an exact fit, it even has indents in the back where the bolts and shafts on the tailights extend into the enclosure.
It was a bit thin for my liking, so I added a few more layers to the inside to beef it up for pressure it wasn't designed for in the 80's
nobody belives on only have a pair of 8's in there, with the cover over it, you'd never know they were there.
you do lose the jack, but it fits in the storage bin just fine.
I looked it over and seen what was involved in making one, wow! they did thier homework, its such an exact fit, it even has indents in the back where the bolts and shafts on the tailights extend into the enclosure.
It was a bit thin for my liking, so I added a few more layers to the inside to beef it up for pressure it wasn't designed for in the 80's
nobody belives on only have a pair of 8's in there, with the cover over it, you'd never know they were there.
you do lose the jack, but it fits in the storage bin just fine.
Originally posted by Fire85GSLSE
Max7 ,
I like this idea for a box. Did you make this or buy it?
How much?
I would like to do this also. I thought about removing the stock rear 6.5 speakers and cutting the hole bigger for 8" speakers. But really like this idea better
Max7 ,
I like this idea for a box. Did you make this or buy it?
How much?
I would like to do this also. I thought about removing the stock rear 6.5 speakers and cutting the hole bigger for 8" speakers. But really like this idea better
#71
Originally posted by Max7
3 times as loud? time for you to hit the books again
3 times as loud? time for you to hit the books again
max 7 im the wrong person to challeng when it comes to this,im mecp master ceritfied in auto audio installation,configuration,and advanced fabrication.
im 21 and have currently built more comp systems then i can count,i started in the biz when i was only 12 yrs old
i have won 5 tropheys under my own name,with my own vehicles.
i currently own Audio Seven,where i sell audio products,and install with nothing but my name,trophys and certs backing my professional opinions.
#73
oh yeah back to the box,a really great place to mount the speakers is right by the shock towers,face them toward the hatch for best bass response,but if your also going for highes like i do with my 6x9's then face them up.i dont need to argue this point just build the boxes then sit in the car and face them up forward and backward,you will see,yes it is a very very noticable diference.
if you really want to get into the project then mount facing up right on top of the shock towers and cut out the rear panels to fit,then leave the bottom open to get at the shocks for changing but make sure you seal all the edges.
if you really want to get into the project then mount facing up right on top of the shock towers and cut out the rear panels to fit,then leave the bottom open to get at the shocks for changing but make sure you seal all the edges.
#74
Originally posted by MIKE-P-28
I missed that.. LOL I see all these amps at work people bring in that say 1000 WATTS on them real big with a 10A fuse... C'mon people lets break it down here, a true 1000 watt amp is gonna have an 80 or 2 50 maxi fuses.
Yeah a 1000 watt, maybe 1000 watt WLS (when lightening strikes)
I missed that.. LOL I see all these amps at work people bring in that say 1000 WATTS on them real big with a 10A fuse... C'mon people lets break it down here, a true 1000 watt amp is gonna have an 80 or 2 50 maxi fuses.
Yeah a 1000 watt, maybe 1000 watt WLS (when lightening strikes)
#75
Ok guys, heres a pic of the speaker box in the car. As you can see, its already been sectioned off for the two sub chambers and the middle (where the amp will eventually sit). As you can see, in the front its cut a little big , a slight mis measurment on my part, but it doesnt matter because the two sub chambers are sealed, and the front will be carpeted, so no one will ever know .