I have a woofer and amp, what layout do I use?
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I have a woofer and amp, what layout do I use?
I have a RF amp 451S and a JL Audio 12" W6 4/8 ohm woofer. I thought it was a 3ohm woofer but a guy told me it had to be either a 4ohm or 8ohm speaker the way it looked. It's just the basic w6 12" woofer that has the white JL insignia on the woofer cap. Any whooo, since this is only a 1 woofer set up. I was told to bridge the amp 1 channel 4 ohm in a paralel set up. Is this correct?
I was told to get a capacitor also. With the limited amount of power I'am suppling the woofer do I really need one?
Also I'am building a custom sub box for this bad boy since nothing out there will probably fit in the hatch of my FD. Should I go port or sealed box? I have always had sealed boxes cause I love the sound, it just takes a lot of power to get that sound. Since I'am not feeding this sub a lot of power should I go for a ported box that requires less amp to achieve a good thump from the woofer. I'am not looking to rattle anything in my car.
I was told to get a capacitor also. With the limited amount of power I'am suppling the woofer do I really need one?
Also I'am building a custom sub box for this bad boy since nothing out there will probably fit in the hatch of my FD. Should I go port or sealed box? I have always had sealed boxes cause I love the sound, it just takes a lot of power to get that sound. Since I'am not feeding this sub a lot of power should I go for a ported box that requires less amp to achieve a good thump from the woofer. I'am not looking to rattle anything in my car.
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http://63.74.14.171/ourstore/prods/451S.html
115 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
225 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
450 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
stereo or bridged mono output
4-ohm stable in bridged mode
Tri-Way capable
variable 50-250 Hz high-pass/low-pass crossover, 24 dB/octave
preamp outputs for convenient daisy-chaining of amplifiers
REMOTE Punch Bass boosts bass up to 18 dB at 45 Hz
11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
It's a 2 channel amp by the way.
115 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
225 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
450 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
stereo or bridged mono output
4-ohm stable in bridged mode
Tri-Way capable
variable 50-250 Hz high-pass/low-pass crossover, 24 dB/octave
preamp outputs for convenient daisy-chaining of amplifiers
REMOTE Punch Bass boosts bass up to 18 dB at 45 Hz
11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
It's a 2 channel amp by the way.
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that amp should be more than sufficient to drive that w6 in a sealed enclosure if you bridge the two channels. They are pretty efficient subs and sound great in a tight box.
Make sure you get the airspace correct and avoid using a ported box.
Make sure you get the airspace correct and avoid using a ported box.
#5
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You don't necessarily need buku power to get killer sound from your subs. I've got an older RF 100x2 pushing 2 Eclipse 8101s (8 Ohm) bridged in parallel. Custom sealed box specifically sized for the characteristics (sp???) of the subs. It sounds sweet as hell and can really pound. Caps will help out a bit, but retail ones are SOOOO overrated. I've got a computer grade .125 farad going and it's plenty. Plus, you're lights won't dim as much when it hits. See if you can get the specs of the box and see what the recommended size box should be.
#7
Whoever told you a W6 is a 4 or 8 ohm sub done bumped their ****** head.......It has dual 6 ohm coils....go tohttp://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html this should help you with your problems There are also several other tutorials on the site for enclosures and power handleing of your sub.....JL probably knows best when it comes to their subs
Last edited by yayo420; 04-22-03 at 09:55 PM.
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yeah yayo420...i was thinking the same thing. i had a w6 that i tried to get fixed one time and the speaker guy couldnt do anything with it because of the ohm load and the way they coils were laid out.
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Originally posted by yayo420
Whoever told you a W6 is a 4 or 8 ohm sub done bumped their ****** head.......It has dual 6 ohm coils....go tohttp://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html this should help you with your problems There are also several other tutorials on the site for enclosures and power handleing of your sub.....JL probably knows best when it comes to their subs
Whoever told you a W6 is a 4 or 8 ohm sub done bumped their ****** head.......It has dual 6 ohm coils....go tohttp://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html this should help you with your problems There are also several other tutorials on the site for enclosures and power handleing of your sub.....JL probably knows best when it comes to their subs
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Originally posted by RX-7racer88
I have 2 JL w3s 12" in my fd. I went with a closed box and them facing strait up. Sound good with it reflecting of the glass.
I have 2 JL w3s 12" in my fd. I went with a closed box and them facing strait up. Sound good with it reflecting of the glass.
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personally street king if I were you I'd try and sell the RF amp and get a JL amp, I have 2 jl 12w3's used to run a RF amp with them and then borrowed the 500/2 JL amp from a friend. Needless to say I got rid of the RF amp, I'm of the mind set if you can get the same brand amp as sub you're better off and in this case it sounded better. That's just my .02
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Ive got 3 JL 8w6's running in my FD in a sealed box fireing up to the glass. They are running in series and makeing a 1.33ohm load i beleive with a Orion 250HCCA amp and they pound pretty good. I would just wire the amp bridged and in series to get a 3 ohm load and youll get alittle more power out of that amp than a 4ohm mono.
just my 2¢
Laterz
just my 2¢
Laterz
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I have tried making boxes for my 15' JL sub facing forwards, upwards, sideways, parallel to hatch and backwards on a 45degree angle. The 45 degree was easily a clear winner by a hell of a margin.
All the boxes were ported and this was in a series 3 watever you guys call them.
All the boxes were ported and this was in a series 3 watever you guys call them.