how do i un-oxidize my paint?
12-01-03, 09:37 PM
#1
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how do i un-oxidize my paint?
my paint is shitty. whenever it gets oil or grease on it it shines nicely. I tried using turtle wax rubbing compound but it didn't do anything. can anyone give me any suggestions?
12-01-03, 09:45 PM
#2
Ho's and Cadillac Doors
get a new paint job.
You could try putting some heavy duty rubbing compound on it. Go to an auto paint supplier and pick up some **** from 3M, like a heavy scratch remover. Try using a buffer with it, then wax it after. Probably wont work, but I'd give it a shot. I don't really think you can take out oxidation.
You could try putting some heavy duty rubbing compound on it. Go to an auto paint supplier and pick up some **** from 3M, like a heavy scratch remover. Try using a buffer with it, then wax it after. Probably wont work, but I'd give it a shot. I don't really think you can take out oxidation.
12-01-03, 11:09 PM
#3
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A new paint job? What a load of crap.
Get some rubbing compound and a buffer. Dont go overboard with the rubbing compound though, cause using to much if it will ruin your paint. If you can use a little, buff. If that doesent work, repeat the process.
Get some rubbing compound and a buffer. Dont go overboard with the rubbing compound though, cause using to much if it will ruin your paint. If you can use a little, buff. If that doesent work, repeat the process.
12-01-03, 11:12 PM
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If your car has a base/clear finish, you're not going to get "the shine" without wet-sanding the clear off and re-shooting it. I don't know when Mazda went to two stage paint.
If yours is two stage, rubbing compound will only make it worse.
This is a good excuse for a new paint job.
Of course, back in the day, my crazy uncle used to put a cup of diesel fuel in his carwash water every few months and swore it kept his Cougar looking brand new. (Tech note* It might work on old solvent-based enamel paints- particularly silver & gold metallics which faded badly. The oils replaced the solvents that had evaporated. Even if the 7 has single stage paint, it probably won't work, because Mazda used ACRYLIC enamel)
If yours is two stage, rubbing compound will only make it worse.
This is a good excuse for a new paint job.
Of course, back in the day, my crazy uncle used to put a cup of diesel fuel in his carwash water every few months and swore it kept his Cougar looking brand new. (Tech note* It might work on old solvent-based enamel paints- particularly silver & gold metallics which faded badly. The oils replaced the solvents that had evaporated. Even if the 7 has single stage paint, it probably won't work, because Mazda used ACRYLIC enamel)
12-01-03, 11:32 PM
#5
I'm bastardizing my car!
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with some really good rubbing compounds and a buffer you can do wonders. If the color is faded, you cant do much. But you can make it shine again if its not oxidized to the primer. Iv never had luck with the turtle wax crap. Theres some 3M stuff that is pretty powerful, they have different grits, id say start with the over the counter 3M stuff first, the one you find at your local auto parts store, and if that doesnt cut it, you can try finding there ruffer stuff on-line.
You are going to need a powered buffer and all day to get it done.
Its just like sanding, you start with the ruff stuff (only as ruff as you need!) and work your way to the fine, then finish with a high quality wax. Clay bar the car first to remove impurities.
You know how you get swirl marks when buffing? know how not to get them? its easy, and no one knows! simply dont buff and wax the car in a swirl motion! the proper way is to go one direction for the body pannel. you also minimize those micro scratches by finishing with a really fine grit.
When you buff with a powered buffer, you only use one side of the wheel, you never lay the entire thing on the car and make swirl marks. Be carful not to overheat the surface too. use the spunge type pad, and 'unload' the pad when its really dirty and full of paint.
lets review:
1. Give the car a wash like never before, and dry.
2. move car to garage and close door so stuff does not blow on it.
3. Clay bar the car.
4. start buffing in one direction to prevent swirls with 3M compound.
5. work your way to a 'fine compund'
6. finish with high quality wax.
7. Make fun of people that got a cheap $200 paint job at macco that actually devalues there car, because it will peal in a few years, to cover there oxidized paint that could have been restored.
iv seen too many cars that could have been restored with a little TLC. I love it when they paint over trim, locks, glass, tires, and everything thats not supose to have paint!
You are going to need a powered buffer and all day to get it done.
Its just like sanding, you start with the ruff stuff (only as ruff as you need!) and work your way to the fine, then finish with a high quality wax. Clay bar the car first to remove impurities.
You know how you get swirl marks when buffing? know how not to get them? its easy, and no one knows! simply dont buff and wax the car in a swirl motion! the proper way is to go one direction for the body pannel. you also minimize those micro scratches by finishing with a really fine grit.
When you buff with a powered buffer, you only use one side of the wheel, you never lay the entire thing on the car and make swirl marks. Be carful not to overheat the surface too. use the spunge type pad, and 'unload' the pad when its really dirty and full of paint.
lets review:
1. Give the car a wash like never before, and dry.
2. move car to garage and close door so stuff does not blow on it.
3. Clay bar the car.
4. start buffing in one direction to prevent swirls with 3M compound.
5. work your way to a 'fine compund'
6. finish with high quality wax.
7. Make fun of people that got a cheap $200 paint job at macco that actually devalues there car, because it will peal in a few years, to cover there oxidized paint that could have been restored.
iv seen too many cars that could have been restored with a little TLC. I love it when they paint over trim, locks, glass, tires, and everything thats not supose to have paint!
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12-02-03, 09:20 AM
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well i don't know if i have a clear coat. i have a 91. it looks like it had been repainted, but it sure as hell doesn't shine. in the back on the bumper i can see remnants of the overspray peeled off.
12-02-03, 07:34 PM
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Originally posted by projekt
... in the back on the bumper i can see remnants of the overspray peeled off.
... in the back on the bumper i can see remnants of the overspray peeled off.
If you have them CHEAP paint job done, them classic elbow grease with rubbing compound, cleaner, and wax may not be a good idea as existent paint job may come off. No kidding.
Check first.
