FearNoPiston

iTrader: (17)

isnt depth going to be an issue??? guess not since some of you have them in yours...are they 5 1/4 or 6 1/2?

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

dept wont be an issue with 5 1/4.

BOOSTD 7

None of what really matters if you're using the passive xovers? Any why does a DIY setup require you to actively cross them?

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

using a passive crossover basically defeats the purpose of going DIY, people go DIY for the flexibility of crossover points and being able to easily adjust them. When you go passive you are stuck to one crossover point and limited or no flexibility. I dont want to go into a half page explanation of everything has it has been covered extensively over at diymobileaudio.com , some really good reads over their.

BOOSTD 7

That's ridiculous ... you do realize it's not that hard to build your own passive crossover don't you? DIY does not mean actively crossed over.

All the magic of any good speaker system is in the crossover. Notch filters, Zobels, response shaping, adjusting phase and time alignment ... that can all be done with good 'ol capacitors, inductors, and resistors. All the guys on diymobileaudio only talk about active crossovers, very few over there realize they can't do anywhere near as much as passive components can - unless you have FIR filters, which NO auto active crossovers do. I build home speakers, so I know better.

RX-7's are the perfect spot for DIY, because unless you know that the crossover point to the tweeter is low, you're going to have problems.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

Not to argue or disagree with you but your looking at it from a home audio perspective. You will never see a home audio active crossover, or very rarely, because you have a non-changing environment, this is much different to a car audio environment. Maybe crossovers are easy for you to build, but they are time consuming and very very few people are able to properly set up and make one. Then say you want to change frequency points or have the frequencies over-lap, you have to re-design your passive crossover. With an active crossover its one button away to do anything you want. So using active is just more convenient and enables you to adjust things on the fly. You can sit in you car and tune away until you find whats acceptable to you, instead of having to keep changing the passive crossover. Now for people like you and I who have audio as a extreme hobby we wouldnt mind taking the extra time and designing crossovers and playing around, but for 99% of people its easier for an active set-up. I have been around the block, like i said in an earlier post, i have done genesis, focal, dyns, morels, and even diy combos consisting of scanspeak mids and lcy 110 ribbons. I do hope to diy home audio but am really satisfied with my dali speakers so feel no need to upgrade.

bmwrx7man

iTrader: (2)

jl, kicker , focal , and alpine are the only ones i would buy i think there the best

BOOSTD 7

There's no difference between a home audio perspective or car audio perspective. There are plenty of home audio active crossovers too, and they're far more advanced than the typical crap people use in cars. A crossover is FAR more than just textbook 12db/octave slopes, which car guys don't realize. A crossover is also impedance compensations, response shaping, notch filters, resonance traps, phase and time alignment, steeper slopes when the driver necessitates ... get my drift? And ALL that stuff is important in cars too. I see 6 1/2" aluminum driver component sets that cross at 3500hz and use textbook 12db/octave filters ... I can only imagine how horrible that must sound, but because of cars guys aversion to thinking about the crossover, they sell.

Crossovers are easy to build, period. All the software is free and pretty simple to learn. Any custom car install is going to take some time and effort, and just like home audio, the crossover is extremely important to the final sound - equally important to the drivers chosen. Why do car guys just throw that fact out the window? The active crossovers used in cars do NONE of the important things passive crossovers do, other than cutting of frequencies.

My point started because ESPECIALLY in an RX-7 it's important to know what's going on in your crossover. You need a tweeter that can handle low crossover points so that you can keep out of the range where the midrange starts beaming, because you'll never be within 15 degree off axis of the mid, and beaming will cause a deep suckout from around 1800hz to whatever the xover point is. Even if you don't build your own crossover, you better be familiar with what's going on in it, and what the confines of a RX-7 necessitate.

Red'vert

IMNSHO, you can't go wrong with speakers from Harman International, this includes the JBL and Infinity car audio lines. (Many of these products are made on the same production lines and are quite similar across the brands. They mix and match well.)

Harman is a monster, they have the best engineers, the best R&D and the best development tools. What's more, they produce in volumes which result in affordable street pricing. You pay higher margins for Peerless, JL Audio, MB Quart and their ilk and ultimately may not match the high-end Harman product performance regardless of price.

The JBL GTi Pro series is great stuff, and the Infinity Perfect subs are some of the best in their class.

You do want to put the best component set you can afford up front. Also, if you're buying an amp, get more channels than you need and consider adding Aura Bass Shakers down the road.

6.5" JBL GTi in FC door:


JBL GTi component crossover and titanium tweeter (mounted on dash):


Infinity Perfect 10" subs:


-Rob

Red'vert

How right you are. The challenge in a car is balancing the fact that component elements, (woof, tweet, mid), want to be close together, but generally as far away and as forward as possible.

Then there's the issue of axis. Best results for proper imaging and reduced beaming are often achieved by placing components in pods down at the driver and passenger side kick panels. Fine in a truck, another story in a sports car. So it's a matter of weighing compromises.

Most people don't set up their home speaker systems properly despite it being physically easy, though perhaps not visually pleasing, to do so. Placement is critical, and in a car, very compromised. Hence, custom tuning the installation is essential.

Aftermarket* head ends will soon be integrating digital "room" correction to help address these issues. You plug in the measurement mic, hang it on your headrest and press a button and the system plots eq, imaging time delay, even custom xover settings and individual driver time alignment. You still want optimum driver placement, but this stuff can really help. (*OEM systems like the Mark Levinson and even the FD's Bose are carefully tuned to the car)

-Rob

Cars are for loud sound first, accuracy second. I do accuracy at home, of course, that's loud too...

actionhank

So I was thinking about it, and my thought was to get a component set from Zapco and a coaxial set from zapco as well.

Now, along with that I was going to get another set of crossovers. I was thinking about using the other crossover I bought on the component set, and the crossover from the component set on the coaxials. Bad idea, good idea, doesnt matter?

actionhank

Anyone?

Red'vert

The Zapcos don't come with crossovers? The crossover is matched to the components or coaxial drivers.

-Rob

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

most coaxial drivers do not come with crossovers, my old rainbows didnt.

purerx7

iTrader: (61)

So your telling me that, wind, bumps, road noise, engine noise make no difference in sound? Im sorry but their is a difference between home and car none of those external factors are their in a home audio system.

Red'vert

My experience with coaxials has been that on the lower quality models, the "crossover" is often integrated into the unit itself, and is merely a bypass cap.

Higher end coaxials these days have external xovers.

-Rob

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

True, some have a little capaciter in line with the power wires going to the tweeter but I think the woofer still gets all the frequencies which makes little to no sense...

ItalynStylion

iTrader: (1)

Get yourself some of these......

BOOSTD 7

What do any of those factors have to do with creating a fundamentally accurate system? Nothing ...

If you want to create an accurate system in a car, you apply all the same philosophies that you use in creating an accurate home speaker system. Of course road noise creates problems, but you're still better of than you would be had you created an innacurate system to begin with.