Have y'all tried putting an amp to them? I noticed whenever I got mine that after about lvl 24 volume it just wouldn't increase sound anymore. I thought it was the headunit maxing itself out to push the speakers so I added an amp and I was correct. The stock wiring to the front door speakers is good enough to splice into and add an amp so the speakers get proper juice. I have a touring and had bose so my rear speakers had to get new wire ran to them and they sounded the exact same as the front before being amped.

 

I have not added an amp. I have not really wanted to either, mostly because of all the additional wiring needed. I've yet to see an amp install the way I would want it to be. (Hidden & out of the way. I don't want one in the trunk. I don't think you cold fit it under the seat. I can't seem to think of any other options other than the trunk.

 

There are several new options that will give you a 4 channel amp that will fit under the seat. Its not much wire to run. RCA's to the amp, a remote wire to the amp, and 8 wires from the amp to either the speakers or back behind the head unit where you can splice into the factory speaker wire. Until then your speakers will be under powered and sound like poop.

 

such as?

 

Check out the Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 or the t400-4. Both are small small amps that would fit anywhere. Just do some research man. Amps these days are getting smaller and smaller. A lot of brands make small amps. Hell the Kicker 1 channel 1000watt amp i had in my other fd would fit in the glovebox.

 

If you are trying to use the stock wiring in an original BOSE car, STOP. The BOSE wiring is signal level wiring (thin) and amplified at the speaker. Its basically the same thing as trying to run speaker level signals through a coaxial cable. Run some new speaker wire 16-12 AWG according to the length, power, and speaker impedance you plan on using. For instance, a 50 watt head unit powered 4 Ohm door speaker will be fine with 16AWG. But a 400 Watt Amp powering a 2 Ohm Sub with 10 feet of wire away should use a 12AWG.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/spe...rassistant.swf

 

Its funny cause i'm running an amp through the stock wire and when tested at the speakers end its getting the power it should and my speakers sound great

 

did your car have a bose system?

 

Yes thats why i had to get these brackets...

 

So the wire looks like it is about a 18 or 16 AWG. I suppose you could run like 100 Watts into a 4 Ohm speaker without too much power loss. Im wondering where your amp is that its easier to run the wire to the head unit area vs just down the beside the kick panels and into the doors?

I have a set of Alpine Type R components (120W RMS) running off of a 165W X 2 RMS amp into something less than 4 ohms depending on crossover settings and so on. Kicker ZX 700.5 mounted on the sub box just in front of the rear strut bar. The speaker wire runs would be pretty long to go from there to the dash and then to the doors so I have the crossovers behind the front kickpanels. Running 12AWG to them then 14 to the woofer. the tweeter has its own attached wire that appears to be 18AWG but they don't need nearly as much power as the woofer. I could easily get away with running 14 to the crossover and 16 to the woofer. The question is why would I do that and loose power in the speaker wire as heat then have to turn up the amp gain and get more distortion. To me it just doesn't make sense to loose power in the wire. Wire is cheap compared to Amplifier Wattage.

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1993 Mazda RX-7 Turing Edition with Factory installed Bose sound system front speaker installation - USA - View tons of car speaker installation photo galleries

Check this out ^
super simple step by step instructions for the ones I have from car-speaker-adapters.com
there's more than one gallery for those who do or don't have Bose