FC Radio/Cassette/EQ -> Aftermarket w/o harness
09-21-04 | 05:57 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Mystical wings guide me~
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
From: Olympia, WA
FC Radio/Cassette/EQ -> Aftermarket w/o harness
Yes I searched, but most things go to something for an FD, or people just say "SEARCH" and then ya do and ya just find stuff of people saying "look what i posted before bs... anyways this is more complex and it should be easier to answer for people that knows whats up.
I bought the car, it had an aftermarket deck installed w/o a harness and the wires just electrical taped together and some had no connections. So I decided to go through, fix the bad ground that was shorting out my fuse, connect the battery/ignition wires correctly, and hook up the speakers that was disconnected.
Here is what i did.
Now my problem. When I turn of the power to Acc via the key, the deck will retain its setting for approx 1 minute, then after it loses all the settings. Did I wire everything correctly, or am I off on something?
I bought the car, it had an aftermarket deck installed w/o a harness and the wires just electrical taped together and some had no connections. So I decided to go through, fix the bad ground that was shorting out my fuse, connect the battery/ignition wires correctly, and hook up the speakers that was disconnected.
Here is what i did.
Code:
[] = Aftermarket Radio Hookup Molex Colors
() = Car Wiring Colors
[Blue] connected to (Purple)
[Blue/Orange Stripe] connected to (Purple/Black Stripe)
[Brown] connected to (Green)
[Brown/White Stripe] connected to (Green/Black Stripe)
[Green] connected to (Gray)
[Green/Yellow Stripe] connected to (Gray/Black Stripe)
[Green/Red Stripe] connected to (White)
[Green/Black Stripe] connected to (White/Black Stripe)
[Black] connected to GROUND
[Red] connected to (Red/Black Stripe) AND (White)*
[Yellow] connected to (Blue/Red Stripe)
[Blue] connected to REMOTE ON**
* To my understanding White is the turn on for the amp for all 4 speakers,
without power to this no sound would come out of the speakers
** Remote on is going to my amplifier for my subs
09-21-04 | 11:29 PM
#2
Looks like it's time for the multi-meter, thats all the advice i can offer. Sounds like your constant power wire isn't really constant. Make sure at least one connection retains power with the key out (usually yellow on the aftermaket harness)
bill
bill
09-21-04 | 11:44 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Mystical wings guide me~
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
From: Olympia, WA
Thanks a ton I didn't even think about that. *runs off to test*
*EDIT*
It reads .61v...
and in my 1st post my yellow is connected to blue/white stripe, not whatever i put...
I think i got my 12+ constant and my 12+ ign switched, but when i really did switch them nothing would come on...
*EDIT*
It reads .61v...
and in my 1st post my yellow is connected to blue/white stripe, not whatever i put...
I think i got my 12+ constant and my 12+ ign switched, but when i really did switch them nothing would come on...
Last edited by Kouta; 09-22-04 at 12:04 AM.
09-22-04 | 05:32 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Mystical wings guide me~
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
From: Olympia, WA
Ok so i found out what is my 12+ switch and my 12+ constant.. at least thats what the multimeter is telling me.
The constant is the LR (blue/red stripe) and the switched is RB (red/blue stripe) but in the haynes handbook it says the RB is from the light switch, not from the ignition switch, but with the key in off there is no power, then key on acc there is 12v. So thats my first concern. My second is the only way i can get sound to play is if i connect the W(white) and the LW (blue/white stripe) which book look like in the schematic that they are for the door amps, and the constant power, and the harness yellow together, so thats W LW LR and Harness Red. But thats a no go, because the stereo will keep playing when there is no key in the ignition. Looks like the white wire is giving power to the system, but I cant get anything to play now if i dont connect all of those wires...
The constant is the LR (blue/red stripe) and the switched is RB (red/blue stripe) but in the haynes handbook it says the RB is from the light switch, not from the ignition switch, but with the key in off there is no power, then key on acc there is 12v. So thats my first concern. My second is the only way i can get sound to play is if i connect the W(white) and the LW (blue/white stripe) which book look like in the schematic that they are for the door amps, and the constant power, and the harness yellow together, so thats W LW LR and Harness Red. But thats a no go, because the stereo will keep playing when there is no key in the ignition. Looks like the white wire is giving power to the system, but I cant get anything to play now if i dont connect all of those wires...
09-22-04 | 06:26 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Mystical wings guide me~
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
From: Olympia, WA
After re-reading the FC FAQ (should really be the wiring sticky here too.. anyways)...
Okie... I wired it like it says in the FC FAQ.. at least from what i could gather.
---------------------
LTBlue/Red= 12v+
LtBlue/White= +Accessory
LtBlue/Yellow= -power ant trigger
Red/Black=+ Lumination
White=Factory Amp Turn on
---------------------
So I wired LTBlue/Red to Yellow
LTBlue/White to Red
White to Blue (Along with the lead from the aftermarket Amp)
and i still cant get any sound out of my speakers.
Okie... I wired it like it says in the FC FAQ.. at least from what i could gather.
---------------------
LTBlue/Red= 12v+
LtBlue/White= +Accessory
LtBlue/Yellow= -power ant trigger
Red/Black=+ Lumination
White=Factory Amp Turn on
---------------------
So I wired LTBlue/Red to Yellow
LTBlue/White to Red
White to Blue (Along with the lead from the aftermarket Amp)
and i still cant get any sound out of my speakers.
09-23-04 | 02:50 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Mystical wings guide me~
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
From: Olympia, WA
Thanks everyone for your help! Finally got it fixed... My problem.. blown 20a fuse, and sony using different color for thier amp turn on wire. Wooo got my music back in all my speakers!
Trending Topics
09-26-04 | 06:30 PM
#8
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: At home in the T-dot
I realize the solution is already solved... but here is a "how-to" I already posted on another forum. For your future reference:
Disconnect the head-unit harness.
Use a multi-meter or voltmeter...
With the ignition switch in the OFF position: check all wires coming from the stereo harness... one or more will have +12 V... this wire is the CONSTANT BATT. wire. Connect this to the thick yellow wire from the head-unit harness.
Switch the ignition to ACCESSORY: check all the remaining wires. A wire will now have +12 V that didn't before. Turn the ignition to the OFF position, the wire should have lost all voltage. This is + ACC. Connect this wire to the red wire from the head-unit harness.
Turn on the car lights: check all wires again. Find the new one with +12V. Turn off the lights. The voltage should drop to zero. This is the illumination wire. Loop this wire back and tape it to the harness, you don't need to connect this wire for the basic install.
Strip the ends of the remaining wires.
With a small 9V battery, test combinations of the remaining wires to find the speaker wires. When you find a speaker you will hear it "pop" and you should be able to tell which speaker it is. Select one of the wires to be positive speaker input (it doesn't matter which one). This is now your reference speaker. The head-unit wire code is: White = front left, Grey = front right, Purple = back left, Green = back right
Once you have identified all the speakers there should only be 1 left: GROUND. Connect this to the bigger black wire from the head-unit harness. There may actually be other wires depending on the car.... power antenna, illumination... but at this point you can use the continuity test on the multi-meter to find ground. When you think you have found the ground wire, turn the car on and switch on everything that could affect the radio and make sure you are still getting a ground signal on the wire. If you are unsure... run a new ground wire to the chassis of the car somewhere.
BE VERY CARFUL! Depending on the car (for ex. 2001+ Sunfires/Cavaliers), it may have a anti-theft system built into the stereo and you may hard-code the car's computer which costs $1500 to have the dealership fix... and they are the only ones who can fix it. But if you are doing older cars like 240's you should be ok. Beware I am not responsible for any of your mistakes or damage you may do trying to do this on your own! If unsure, leave it to a professional.
Disconnect the head-unit harness.
Use a multi-meter or voltmeter...
With the ignition switch in the OFF position: check all wires coming from the stereo harness... one or more will have +12 V... this wire is the CONSTANT BATT. wire. Connect this to the thick yellow wire from the head-unit harness.
Switch the ignition to ACCESSORY: check all the remaining wires. A wire will now have +12 V that didn't before. Turn the ignition to the OFF position, the wire should have lost all voltage. This is + ACC. Connect this wire to the red wire from the head-unit harness.
Turn on the car lights: check all wires again. Find the new one with +12V. Turn off the lights. The voltage should drop to zero. This is the illumination wire. Loop this wire back and tape it to the harness, you don't need to connect this wire for the basic install.
Strip the ends of the remaining wires.
With a small 9V battery, test combinations of the remaining wires to find the speaker wires. When you find a speaker you will hear it "pop" and you should be able to tell which speaker it is. Select one of the wires to be positive speaker input (it doesn't matter which one). This is now your reference speaker. The head-unit wire code is: White = front left, Grey = front right, Purple = back left, Green = back right
Once you have identified all the speakers there should only be 1 left: GROUND. Connect this to the bigger black wire from the head-unit harness. There may actually be other wires depending on the car.... power antenna, illumination... but at this point you can use the continuity test on the multi-meter to find ground. When you think you have found the ground wire, turn the car on and switch on everything that could affect the radio and make sure you are still getting a ground signal on the wire. If you are unsure... run a new ground wire to the chassis of the car somewhere.
BE VERY CARFUL! Depending on the car (for ex. 2001+ Sunfires/Cavaliers), it may have a anti-theft system built into the stereo and you may hard-code the car's computer which costs $1500 to have the dealership fix... and they are the only ones who can fix it. But if you are doing older cars like 240's you should be ok. Beware I am not responsible for any of your mistakes or damage you may do trying to do this on your own! If unsure, leave it to a professional.
