suganuma

how heavy is this stuff??

work well??

darkside7

iTrader: (12)

Depends on the dynamat you get. There like 5 different kinds made by them. The originals are not that bad, as long as you don't put on too much.

SlowAzz95stang

I bought some sound matting, you will have some trouble keeping it on your trunk. Make sure you use spray glue to keep it on or it will be falling out in pieces shortly. It isnt too heavy, less than 20 pounds for 60 square feet. It makes a difference around trouble spots. Mat your license plate with a layer or 2, and put it behind the bolts that hold in your tail lights. Significantly reduces external rattle and all the internal.

suganuma

that sounds kinda heavy....
guess i'll just keep it loud for now

rynberg

don't pay the money for the dynamat...

just get any "mass-loaded vinyl" product made by dozens of companies, the most common densities are 1/2 and 1 lb/square foot. The 1/2 would probably be adequate for trying to reduce noise in an FD as you can only go so far

suganuma

what has best effectiveness to weight ratio?

rynberg

I think for the application of trying to quiet an FD down, the 0.5 lb/sq ft would be just fine. Obviously, the 1 lb/sq ft will be more effective but you start hitting a wall. Sound transmission through the windows, door/sunroof seals, firewall, and just general overall structure-borne noise that the treatment won't stop.

You might want to try a mixed approach, although you will be adding a bunch of weight either way. Something like:

*use 1 lb/sq ft for the hatch bottom/spare tire well

*use 0.5 lb for doors, and side walls

*use 1 lb for floor beneath carpeting

These are just guesses as I have never extensively measured the inside of the car. Maybe I will make that a project one of these days.....

suganuma

on one hand i say, i can add a little more weight and make the car a little "nicer" inside......i.e. be able to hear someone if they call the cell phone and them hear me, etc
and that would be ok with the additional power....

another side wants to go rip everything out....

and another side thinks that even if i do this project, one day the "make it lighter at all costs" side will win over and then i will have to go back and rip all this **** out....

decisions decisions.....

this stuff you're talking about is the most effective stuff or the lightest stuff??

Icemark

remember you are only adding a little less weight than the sheet or box of the vibration reducer.

So if you get a 10 lbs box and use all that, you have only added a little less than 10lbs

suganuma

nic realizes this.....its still 10 lbs

-Nic

rotobiatch

all i can say is dont use E-Dead!!!!!!!!! it sux so bad!!!! it wont stick to any thing you put it on and it pells off no matter what you do to it!!!!! AAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!!! sry about that i just had to get that out of my system

Icemark

well the big key with any sound deading material is to make sure the surface is very clean before appling.

You should swab and wipe the whole area down with acetone before applying anything like dynamat or e-dead of any other sound deading material.

SlowAzz95stang

He was referring to my car. I cleaned the area before i applied it. I used a blow drier to heat it up after the first time failed. The blow dried layer fell off in 12 hours. I then tried super 77 spray glue, and it had the same result. E-dead is crap. Dont buy it.

RonKMiller

Use Super 90 instead. I know it's $20 a can. It will make an ice cube stick to teflon.

Spray both surfaces VERY LIGHTLY, less is more. Let it tack up for 5 minutes. It's on forever.