thanks for the feedback.... youre motivating me to finally tackle doing the swap myself... except i only want to swap the tach, leave the rest of the guages stock.

i hate taking apart the dash, so ive been procrastinating

 

I think once you mess with the cluster and start cutting, the rest of the gauges stop functioning. I could be wrong. I was still able to keep the turn signals though

 

You can do just the tach. It is actually pretty simple since all you need is trim the opening to make it fit.

 

Might be a stupid question, but do you have a rev limiter in place since that gauge goes up to 11k?

 

The rev limiter is set by the ECU

 

awesome stuff, looks great! deff gonna do this when the time comes for it.. better yet wanna make one for me? hahahaha

 

Just let me know when

 

tach ordered today

GR4-TACH-03
Revolution 4 in. 10,000 rpm Tachometer (w/memory) (in-dash mount)
Red dial // black font (Red Glow)
Font Style = Eurostyle
Graphics = NONE
Logo/text = Nothing
Pointer = White (Glows Blue)
Bezel = Revolution Silver

http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-608.htm

the only thing im second guessing is the pointer... daytime its white, night it glows blue... so it will be the only thing thats not glowing red on the dash... my plan is that it might be cool to have the tack needle stand out easily in the dark, since its the most crucial thing to notice during wide open pulls... i just hope the pointer doesnt glow TOO brightly and become annoying.

 

I found that my battery does not charge with the instrument cluster removed. It happened after I had the alternator upgraded to 150A by IR Performance. When I re-installed it I found my voltage was staying at 12.6v with the car running. I traced the problem to the alternator and even went so far as to send it back to Ivan, where it tested good. They even installed it in a car and drove the car with no problems. I got it back, installed it....same thing. Finally, after several days of scratching my head, it occurred to me to plug in the instrument cluster...viola!, voltage went to 14.4v. Unplugged the cluster...battery voltage 12.6v. I still haven't figured out why...according to the FSM it shouldn't make a difference. Anybody got any ideas?

BTW, I am REALLY interested in doing this myself.....and all my gauges work just fine.

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

That's odd that your battery doesn't charge with the cluster removed. I drove my car with the cluster removed for over a month without no issues.

 

got a shipping notification from speedhut finally....cant wait till it gets here!

 

Do you possibly have any pictures of how you mounted the gauges and kept the rear PCB? I may be interested in doing this, but don't want to go as far as Lane went. Sounds like the way you did it might be the ticket.

 

I mounted the PCB board like it would normally go. When you gut the inside of the cluster make sure you leave the plugs alone. There is plenty of room anyways. Then cut a hole on the top and bottom of the white plastic to route your wires out.

 

Bad ***. Did you still use the speedhut screw on rings to hold the gauges to the fiberglass piece you made?

 

I used the back ring.

 

That looks really sharp I'll see if I can scrounge up pictures of the cluster I made.

 

Nice

 

almost done... finally lol... poor guage sat in my house for months before i got around to getting it installed

 

I curious about the motion of the gps speedo. On any gps device or phone or the like, the speed only updates every few seconds instead of giving a smooth "constant" feeling. Do the needles update quickly so they don't appear digital?

 

Never had an issue with that.

 

Here is my setup I went with the 4 1/2 inch tach and 4 inch GPS speedo http://i48.tinypic.com/2m7dmyh.jpg" border="0"

 

Im having a hard time trying to upload pic from phone

 

There you go.

Looks really good. The 4" Speedo and the 4.5" Tach was a good call. My smaller Speedo was a little halo'd in my original conversion.

Lane

 

Damn the 4 1/2" Tach does look better. NOTED!!!