cleaning aftermarket rims...
#1
cleaning aftermarket rims...
I'm sure there are a few threads on this out there...but the search function isn't going back far enough at this point, and I'm kind of worried...
My rims are deep dish, and between the beginning of the dish area and where the rim meets the lip is a tiny groove. Crap gets stuck in there...and I don't want it permanently staining the rim. Anyone got pointers on how to clean these tight areas? I've heard of toothbrushes, etc...but isn't that too harsh? I'd think the brushes could scratch the surface, esp. if you have a clearcoat on the rims, no?
Also...in general, how do you guys keep your rims clean, what do you use to clean them, and how often do you clean 'em?
Thanks
~Ramy
My rims are deep dish, and between the beginning of the dish area and where the rim meets the lip is a tiny groove. Crap gets stuck in there...and I don't want it permanently staining the rim. Anyone got pointers on how to clean these tight areas? I've heard of toothbrushes, etc...but isn't that too harsh? I'd think the brushes could scratch the surface, esp. if you have a clearcoat on the rims, no?
Also...in general, how do you guys keep your rims clean, what do you use to clean them, and how often do you clean 'em?
Thanks
~Ramy
#3
Originally Posted by Compilez
Sounds like a toothbrush would work good. I wouldn't think a toothbrush with soap and water would harm your rims. But, if you are worried about scratching it, you could try cotton swabs. Probably a bit more tedious, but it's softer than a toothbrush.
#5
Originally Posted by darkside7
did u try a claybar????? it should be safe on all surfaces. after a good cleaning, you can put a coat of good wax, so next time it would be easer to clean...
Thanks
#6
Don't push hard on the claybar, and don't rub it on a dry surface. If you drop it on anything but the car, throw it away. If you purchase the Mother's Claybar, it'll come with the bar and a spray to put on your car while rubbing.
#7
Power Trippin'
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I'd think the brushes could scratch the surface, esp. if you have a clearcoat on the rims, no?
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#9
Thanks guys for all the info.
Horsehair brush, eh? Where you get one of those babies? And as for the Carnuba wax...like the Turtle Wax Carnuba Wax you can get at any auto shop?
Originally Posted by SpeedKing
Ramy, use a horse hair brush; do NOT use a brush with synthetic hair - *that* will scratch your wheels. And in reference to your other questions on this thread, use 100% carnauba wax on your wheels, *not* cleaner wax w/ abrasives, don't use any commercial wheel cleaner spray that you get at the auto parts store (it's acidic and will ruin the paint and clearcoat over time), and clean your wheels often, at least once a week, especially if you're using upgraded metallic brake pads. The brake dust will pit your wheels in no time.
#10
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Fikse should know how to clean wheels. This is off the website.
http://fikse.com/wheelcare.html
With proper care, your wheel finish can be maintained for years.
First, and most importantly, NEVER let heavy brake dust accumulate on the wheels for an extended period. Frequent cleaning is essential--much like a fine car finish. Most brake pad material becomes highly acidic when mixed with rain or water. This acidic mix of brake dust and water can damage any wheel if left on them too long.
Second, it is important to avoid using off-the-shelf “Wheel Cleaner” products which are typically designed for use on lower quality cast metals. These, too are usually far too acidic for high performance wheels. Fikse recommends a 50/50% mix of biodegradeable cleaner called Simple Green and cold water. Never use hot water on aluminum, and always let the wheels cool to room temperature before cleaning. Use a natural sable bristle paint brush (available in the paint department of most hardware stores) to clean the lug pockets and spoke corner areas.
Third, clean using this process:
1. Spray the wheel with the 50/50 Simple Green/water mix.
2. Let stand for 15-30 seconds, using the soft sable brush to loosen the dirt as mentioned,
3. Rinse with cold water.
4. Repeat this process as necessary to get the wheel fully clean.
5. To dry the wheel, drive the car around the block to fling off excess water, then pat the wheel gently with a soft, dry, cotton cloth.
Fourth, most of our wheels have the center section clearcoated and the rims polished but left uncoated. This means that the outer rim (if the wheel finish is TechniPolish, neither coated nor anodized) can be touch-up polished with a very fine grade metal polish.
Fifth, once your wheels are clean and dry, you may apply a very light coat of highest-grade wax to the wheels to help protect them between cleanings.
Finally, it is always advisable to test all cleaning and wheel care materials on a small inconspicuous part of your wheel to determine if the products are producing the results you’re seeking—Fikse wheels come in a wide variety of finishes and product formulations change over time. Fikse warranties do not apply to damage caused by improper care or cleaning, so testing any products before use is imperative.
http://fikse.com/wheelcare.html
With proper care, your wheel finish can be maintained for years.
First, and most importantly, NEVER let heavy brake dust accumulate on the wheels for an extended period. Frequent cleaning is essential--much like a fine car finish. Most brake pad material becomes highly acidic when mixed with rain or water. This acidic mix of brake dust and water can damage any wheel if left on them too long.
Second, it is important to avoid using off-the-shelf “Wheel Cleaner” products which are typically designed for use on lower quality cast metals. These, too are usually far too acidic for high performance wheels. Fikse recommends a 50/50% mix of biodegradeable cleaner called Simple Green and cold water. Never use hot water on aluminum, and always let the wheels cool to room temperature before cleaning. Use a natural sable bristle paint brush (available in the paint department of most hardware stores) to clean the lug pockets and spoke corner areas.
Third, clean using this process:
1. Spray the wheel with the 50/50 Simple Green/water mix.
2. Let stand for 15-30 seconds, using the soft sable brush to loosen the dirt as mentioned,
3. Rinse with cold water.
4. Repeat this process as necessary to get the wheel fully clean.
5. To dry the wheel, drive the car around the block to fling off excess water, then pat the wheel gently with a soft, dry, cotton cloth.
Fourth, most of our wheels have the center section clearcoated and the rims polished but left uncoated. This means that the outer rim (if the wheel finish is TechniPolish, neither coated nor anodized) can be touch-up polished with a very fine grade metal polish.
Fifth, once your wheels are clean and dry, you may apply a very light coat of highest-grade wax to the wheels to help protect them between cleanings.
Finally, it is always advisable to test all cleaning and wheel care materials on a small inconspicuous part of your wheel to determine if the products are producing the results you’re seeking—Fikse wheels come in a wide variety of finishes and product formulations change over time. Fikse warranties do not apply to damage caused by improper care or cleaning, so testing any products before use is imperative.
#11
NICE! I like that writeup! Thanks tobecontinued!
Now...for some real world questions...how long is "an extended period of time" ?? During the year, not only do I not drive my car often, but sometimes it's only once a week or even every two weeks. In the winter, it's practically never. So in such a case, since I'm not using the brakes, I wouldn't have to clean the rims every week, correct? Cuz I'd prob only get around to washing the car and cleaning the rims every month or maybe 2 months (time is real tight).
Now...for some real world questions...how long is "an extended period of time" ?? During the year, not only do I not drive my car often, but sometimes it's only once a week or even every two weeks. In the winter, it's practically never. So in such a case, since I'm not using the brakes, I wouldn't have to clean the rims every week, correct? Cuz I'd prob only get around to washing the car and cleaning the rims every month or maybe 2 months (time is real tight).
#12
The Cause of Death
could also get a thin pointed tool, about the size of a punch, but solid
wrap the pointy end in masking tape and cover it with a rag
use that to clean inside the groove...
good luck
wrap the pointy end in masking tape and cover it with a rag
use that to clean inside the groove...
good luck
#13
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I use to use shirts, i would ripp them, and slowy go around the whole rim to get all the little things that get stuck between the lip and spokes.I also had multi piece rims i had the gt-c's.As for the lip a would clean them with windex and like speedking said you could use 100% carnauba wax(mothers) but you dont have to use the wax everytime you clean them.
#14
Power Trippin'
iTrader: (4)
FDNewbie: You can get a horse hair brush from any hardware store. Also, when cleaning your wheels, have two buckets handy - one filled with soap water, the other with just water. Clean a section of a wheel, swash the brush in the bucket of water to clean it, dip it back into the bucket of soap water, clean another section of the wheel, etc., etc. I also do the same when washing my car. Try it one time, and you'll see a LOT of dirt in the bucket of water-only that would otherwise end up in the bucket of soap water if you didn't clean your brush or sponge or whatever you use to wash your car with.
And BTW, here's a tip I got from someone who details concours cars. This is **** (no pun intended), but you use toilet paper (the softer the better) to clean/wax your wheels.
And BTW, here's a tip I got from someone who details concours cars. This is **** (no pun intended), but you use toilet paper (the softer the better) to clean/wax your wheels.
#15
SpeedKing, thanks for the tips. I'm a dork...I shoulda been using the two bucket method when I'm cleaning my car!! I've noticed how dirty the soap water gets!
Oh and about the toilet paper, I actually, I know a couple of people that use diapers! I'm serious...cuz baby dipers are super soft! hehe
I just picked up a spray bottle of "Turtle Wax Express Shine, Carnauba Blend." Can that work, or do I need a 100% Carnuba wax that has to be applied and wiped off? Cuz this stuff you can just spray and wipe (I'm lazy!)
1revn3rdgen, I actually use shirts when I glaze the car (better than wax)
Oh and about the toilet paper, I actually, I know a couple of people that use diapers! I'm serious...cuz baby dipers are super soft! hehe
I just picked up a spray bottle of "Turtle Wax Express Shine, Carnauba Blend." Can that work, or do I need a 100% Carnuba wax that has to be applied and wiped off? Cuz this stuff you can just spray and wipe (I'm lazy!)
1revn3rdgen, I actually use shirts when I glaze the car (better than wax)
#16
Originally Posted by SpeedKing
FDNewbie: You can get a horse hair brush from any hardware store.
Since I can't find them around here...you know of a place online I can order one?
Also, when cleaning your wheels, have two buckets handy - one filled with soap water, the other with just water. Clean a section of a wheel, swash the brush in the bucket of water to clean it, dip it back into the bucket of soap water, clean another section of the wheel, etc., etc. I also do the same when washing my car. Try it one time, and you'll see a LOT of dirt in the bucket of water-only that would otherwise end up in the bucket of soap water if you didn't clean your brush or sponge or whatever you use to wash your car with.
Last edited by FDNewbie; 12-07-04 at 01:51 PM.
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