Body Kit Help: Which One Is This ??
07-19-02, 07:26 PM
#26
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Aight thanks.
And i came here to learn.
I've been here every day and I dont get my car till Monday. I knew it wasnt a regular car so i came here to learn a few things so I didnt mess it up. People were just making it hard.
And is FB = First Gen.
FC= Second Gen.
FD= Third Gen.
????
And i came here to learn.
I've been here every day and I dont get my car till Monday. I knew it wasnt a regular car so i came here to learn a few things so I didnt mess it up. People were just making it hard.
And is FB = First Gen.
FC= Second Gen.
FD= Third Gen.
????
07-19-02, 07:35 PM
#28
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Oh, I was just asking though.
But what I meant by that was people who wish they had an rx-7, period. I've seen a couple on here.
But is that right about the FB, FC, & FD ??
But what I meant by that was people who wish they had an rx-7, period. I've seen a couple on here.
But is that right about the FB, FC, & FD ??
07-19-02, 07:43 PM
#29
yea but there are a couple stories that i dont knwo off the top of my head on why first gen is fb , i think cuz like it started out as FA and then went to FB and then just went on from there. and they git those "titles" from there vin numbers and its actually FD3S for 3rd gens. i believe most of what i said is right but even i am still learning. and the search function can act like a dictionary....that or this site: enjoy
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...efinitions.htm
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...efinitions.htm
07-19-02, 07:54 PM
#31
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Originally posted by TpCpLaYa
....everyone on the forums knows a few things, and one of the things we knows iz...there is more than one type of generation...theres fb,fc,fd...and previous ect....ya betta learn dat!
....everyone on the forums knows a few things, and one of the things we knows iz...there is more than one type of generation...theres fb,fc,fd...and previous ect....ya betta learn dat!
hahaha. yeah excel, sorry about the hard time earlier. it's nice to hear of someone wanting to learn as much about their car as they can before they screw something up...
just like everyone says, search and that will answer most of the common questions, i.e. "what intercooler/radiator/intake/blah blah blah" most of the problems are fixed before they even occur just by reading around on here and asking *smart* questions...inform people as much as you know about the problem and they will be able to help you out better and faster...
...
i was reading this thread earlier today, TONS AND TONS of good info for first-timers and the like. read up and it will help you out a great deal. i copy and pasted it into a word document for quick reference...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=92695
no hard feelings buddy and good luck with the car. keep us updated.
07-19-02, 08:10 PM
#33
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Does that mean that if u modify 3 different parts in attempt to do something you need to upgrade the ECU ??
I read that somewhere else that if u add 3 bolt-on applications to increase air flow u need to upgrade you ECU and they were claiming that was the 3 Mod Rule.
Is that correct ??
I read that somewhere else that if u add 3 bolt-on applications to increase air flow u need to upgrade you ECU and they were claiming that was the 3 Mod Rule.
Is that correct ??
07-23-02, 03:36 PM
#37
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hey man...
let me just give you something that i got when i first started that made a world of difference to me.....
Here we go!!
1) Boost gauge. You would be surprised how much diagnostic information can be attained
from an accurate unit as this. This will give you an idea of your engine health, performance,
and your 'looks cool' factor. There are many different boost gauges, and I recomend going to a
digital unit. Stay away from Autometer if possible. Those tend to be off +-1.5psi.
I recomend Greddy/Defi/Hks/Apexi etc. Go with a name brand. You can choose the face color,
position, etc. This is a reliability and in your case, a looks modification.
2) Water/Coolant Tempature. I would put this in the same time as the boost gauge. Again,
this gives you all the benifits as above. The stock gauge only has three settings:
A) COLD B) OK C)SCREWED. Your car wont run correctly in two of those settings.
Its nice to have some sort of information, unless you have a money tree in the backyard and
don't care.
3) Vacuum Hose. This is a frustrating task, but one well worth it. Those damn black snakes that cover
your car can cause some leathal bites if one decideds to be mean. Since you noted you are a
'body/looks' guy, this is a great chance to pick up some color silicone tubing to customize your
engine bay. Use zip ties! Also buys some worm clamps, and dump the stock ones. Use zip ties to
hold the silicone on the nipples. Doing this mod will provide reliabilty.
4) Air Intake. I recomend a custom one. You can fabricate two pipes leading off your inlets with
a K&N Filter on it. This is the cheapest way to go, and provides flexability. If you want to be
more elaborite, you can fabricate some cold-air induction unit where the oil-cooler would normally
reside on the 'R' models. This will open up your breathing for your engine. This would also be a
good time to remove your airpump. Doing this will add power.
5) Downpipe. I recomend this as your second, if not first step. This is considered a 'safty' mod,
but does add power. Depending on how many miles your car has, these precats tend to clog up, causing
all sorts of problems; primairliy heat exchange. Dump the stock downpipe, and pick up a downpipe from
either HKS (199), Pettit, or someone. They all usually run in the same category. This will add
power and reliability.
6) Catback. Removing stock exhaust is always a good thing when considering power additions. There
are many routes to go on this one, but it all depends on what you are looking for. You noted you were
a 'looks/body' guy. Are you a 'sound guy' too? One of the best flowing HP exhausts would be the
Apexi GT. Your decision here. At most, you are looking at a minimal rwhp between the different setups.
This will add power.
7) ECU. Some people may note that I am throwing this into the equation too soon, but I would do
this early in the game. You have MANY options here. Since you commented that you are a 'body/looks'
guy, rather than 'tuner/mechanic'; I would recomend you stay away from these: Haltech, Wolf, PowerFC,
TecXX, Motec or anything that is somewhat of a stand alone system. With that out in the air, I
recomend you do not get a Peter Ferrel PMS unit either. What I would recomend, is Pettit's unlimited ECU.
Simple plug and play, and allows you to run boost up to your map sensors capability (17.5 psi).
Doing this modification will provide reliability and power.
8) AST Modification. Now would be a good time to remove the stock (plastic) Air Seperator Tank.
These things are prone to becoming brittle due to the heat & pressure. Last thing you want is to be racing
and having this thing bust on you. Go with Pettit's AST. Great choice. Doing this mod will provide reliabilty.
9) Grounding Straps/Battery Relocation. You should do this now, since the next two steps will be most
difficult if you don't.
10) Radiator. Some may say "go with the midpipe!!", while others may have said "You should have gone
with a radiator 1st!", I believe responcibility is the key. By this point, you will have the technical
information infront of you to be a safe (for the car) driver. Before jumping into the next few steps,
it is a good point to continue with the reliabiltiy. Most everything else from these next few points will
start adding horsepower, while knicking your reliabiltiy. Grab a good radiator, don't be cheasy.
I would recomend Fluidyne. The mounting location depends on what decide to do on number 8.
Use watter wetter with your coolant as well. Doing this modification will provide reliability.
11) Intercooler. Well, here is a chance to define how you want your car to be. What do you do primarily
with this car? Is it a weekend warrior/drag racing killer? Or is it an AutoX or RoadRace car? The difference
is which intercooler you go with. An upgraded Stock-mount or CWS intercooler is best used with a
RoadRacing/AutoX scenario. In these types of usage, you want the radiator to be up front collecting that
cool air first. For street warrior/drag racing, grab a front mount intercooler. Which brand depends on
what you are doing. If going with a stock-mount intercooler, I would recomend Peter Ferrels unit.
It works well.As for a FMIC, in your case, I would go with an Apexi unit. Don't be confused in buying the
'biggest of the biggest'; meaning, don't buy a Greddy 3 row, since your boost will be 16 and below.
These intercoolers are for high-boost scenarios.
12) Piping Because your redoing your intercooler configuration, now is the chance to clean up some of those
bottlenecks/weird bends. I would recomend going with a greddy elbow (even one with a BOV flange), and an
Efini Y-Pipe. Then, get some nice 3" or 2 - 2/3 piping fabricated to the sections. Buy some matching/contrasting
silicone piping connectors.
13) BOV Since you have the flange for it now, it would be a good turbo saver on unwanted backlash pressure.
14) Turbo timer Ok... here is the deal on this one. Get one, but don't use it for a turbo safty application,
rather an engine application. In all reality, if you drive your car hard you should drive some cool off laps.
But, in the cases you cant, use the timer. Take notice: The stock turbos are oil cooled, and water cooled;
therefore the turbo timer really doesn't help as many people think they do.
15) SparkPlugs. Again, I would recomend changing your plugs to some 'racing' plugs by this point.
It never hurts (except maybe mpg economy.. But thats not what we are here for is it?) and offers safty.
I would also recomend you go with some thicker plug wires while your at it. Stay with NGK plugs. Doing this
would be a reliability and power gain (not much power, but it helps!).
16) Fuel! As you start to reach into the heavy power delivery, fuel upgrades are recomended. At the mininum,
I would at least get a new fuel pump. Upgraded injectors/rails depends on you. If you do go with upgraded
injectors/rails you will have to decide how you want to control them, in which this relates back to the ECU you
choose. Remember, you can always buy a fuel controller seperatly, but I recomend against it. This will enable you
to run more power reliable.
17) Fan Mod. I would do the FAN mod at this point to provide you with that extra tad bit of cooling. Basically,
this modification forces your fans to run in high-speed mode all the time, vs the other speeds. Doing this mod will
provide reliabilty.
18) Thermostat Change This depends on your car. You may not need it in the region you are in. But, if you drive
the car hard, its recomended. Go with a colder thermostat, or drill yours out. This will push the coolant
through earlier in the game. Doing this mod will provide reliabilty.
19) Mid-Pipe Hang-on baybee! Thats what you will be thinking when you take your cat out of the car and put a
straight through pipe on the car. If you do each piece individually, this will be the component that you will recognize
the most power gains. Watch the boost creep! Doing this modification is a power gain, and -1 off on reliability.
20) Boost controller. With open exhaust and intake, your boost is going to start to creep and spike upwards.
There is a lot of controller units out there on the market. Depending on what your goal is, decide on the product.
I will let you do the research here. Basically, if you are looking for something to completly tune every 500 rpm
increments of boost, delays, etc go with the Apexi AVC-R. If your looking for a good twist and turn go type, grab a
Greddy ProfecB.
21) Pully kit. Well, we are getting down to the little things that are needed. A Pully kit will give you a little hp.
But anything works. Do some research on this, and choose the appropriate kit.
22) Ignition Amp. I recomend you go with a unit that DOES NOT REQUIRE splicing into the coil harness. Some units do,
and this is a nono in my book. It seems that once you start cutting into the resistance of the wire, bad things COULD
happen. Either way, my recomendation is the HKS Twin Power. Easy bolt on. This will give you more power.
23) Removing the AWS. Removing the Accelerated Warmup system should be done next. I recomend you should cut the
butterflies in the manifold out as well. Since you are disabling this, the butterflies sit in there in an 'open' state.
Removing these, and capping the holes has actually shown RWHP gains. Coincident? Maybe. But, anything to remove
turbulance going into the engine must help. Doing this mod may provide more power.
24) Short Shifter kit This would be a good time to start doing the driveline/other sections of the car. Go ahead and
get a short shifter. Everyone needs one! heh
25) Clutch. Your going to need a clutch real soon with all these modifications. Remember though, we are only running
at 12 psi max right now. Why? So your damn car doesn't fall apart. Grab a good clutch. ACT/BONEZ is an excellent clutch
that will last you a good period of time. I would recomend staying away from centerforce. Some people have had good
things to say, but most I talk to don't. I didn't. Also, you don't need a clutch that is 'on/off' either, unless you want
to look like a fool driving around town lurching everywhere.
26) Lower weight flywheel. Any recipicating mass that you remove helps. This happens to bring your RPMS up a little
quicker too. As you will start to notice, we are just about done with performance. Now we are getting into the little
things that do make a difference.
27) Suspension kit. If you are making 397 rwhp with the stock suspension, throw a suspension kit on there. You will then
make 397 afterwords, yet your car can be faster. Suspension tuning can counter the horsepower blues. Have fun playing!
28) Beefy rear end!. Throw a KAAZ 1.5 LSD in there. This will help on those 7k launches. Trust me, it is no fun
braking the pumkin in two. Its very costly I might add.
29) 4.33 gears Well, changing the gearing always improves some sort of time. Generally, people that have changed
to these gears don't notice a 'speed' increasement, but rather the 'correct' rpm in racing. Depends on your application.
30) Upgraded power plant frame. Mazdaspeed sells a nice one. Its red too.
31) Upgraded axles. No one likes a week link in the equation, and your axles will be it. Grab some nice chromoly
ones. Hope you have some money left over.
32) Weight Reduction. Again, if you are at 397 rwhp, take some weight off and stop eating the McDonalds breakfast.
This will make the car seem as though it has 410 rwhp. But in your case, it will just bring the car down to the weight before you added all the body kits.
33) What ever you do!........ Dont let your girl touch the damn thing... take it from somone who knows...
ps. thanks to Mike for supplying the info to me in the first place...
let me just give you something that i got when i first started that made a world of difference to me.....
Here we go!!
1) Boost gauge. You would be surprised how much diagnostic information can be attained
from an accurate unit as this. This will give you an idea of your engine health, performance,
and your 'looks cool' factor. There are many different boost gauges, and I recomend going to a
digital unit. Stay away from Autometer if possible. Those tend to be off +-1.5psi.
I recomend Greddy/Defi/Hks/Apexi etc. Go with a name brand. You can choose the face color,
position, etc. This is a reliability and in your case, a looks modification.
2) Water/Coolant Tempature. I would put this in the same time as the boost gauge. Again,
this gives you all the benifits as above. The stock gauge only has three settings:
A) COLD B) OK C)SCREWED. Your car wont run correctly in two of those settings.
Its nice to have some sort of information, unless you have a money tree in the backyard and
don't care.
3) Vacuum Hose. This is a frustrating task, but one well worth it. Those damn black snakes that cover
your car can cause some leathal bites if one decideds to be mean. Since you noted you are a
'body/looks' guy, this is a great chance to pick up some color silicone tubing to customize your
engine bay. Use zip ties! Also buys some worm clamps, and dump the stock ones. Use zip ties to
hold the silicone on the nipples. Doing this mod will provide reliabilty.
4) Air Intake. I recomend a custom one. You can fabricate two pipes leading off your inlets with
a K&N Filter on it. This is the cheapest way to go, and provides flexability. If you want to be
more elaborite, you can fabricate some cold-air induction unit where the oil-cooler would normally
reside on the 'R' models. This will open up your breathing for your engine. This would also be a
good time to remove your airpump. Doing this will add power.
5) Downpipe. I recomend this as your second, if not first step. This is considered a 'safty' mod,
but does add power. Depending on how many miles your car has, these precats tend to clog up, causing
all sorts of problems; primairliy heat exchange. Dump the stock downpipe, and pick up a downpipe from
either HKS (199), Pettit, or someone. They all usually run in the same category. This will add
power and reliability.
6) Catback. Removing stock exhaust is always a good thing when considering power additions. There
are many routes to go on this one, but it all depends on what you are looking for. You noted you were
a 'looks/body' guy. Are you a 'sound guy' too? One of the best flowing HP exhausts would be the
Apexi GT. Your decision here. At most, you are looking at a minimal rwhp between the different setups.
This will add power.
7) ECU. Some people may note that I am throwing this into the equation too soon, but I would do
this early in the game. You have MANY options here. Since you commented that you are a 'body/looks'
guy, rather than 'tuner/mechanic'; I would recomend you stay away from these: Haltech, Wolf, PowerFC,
TecXX, Motec or anything that is somewhat of a stand alone system. With that out in the air, I
recomend you do not get a Peter Ferrel PMS unit either. What I would recomend, is Pettit's unlimited ECU.
Simple plug and play, and allows you to run boost up to your map sensors capability (17.5 psi).
Doing this modification will provide reliability and power.
8) AST Modification. Now would be a good time to remove the stock (plastic) Air Seperator Tank.
These things are prone to becoming brittle due to the heat & pressure. Last thing you want is to be racing
and having this thing bust on you. Go with Pettit's AST. Great choice. Doing this mod will provide reliabilty.
9) Grounding Straps/Battery Relocation. You should do this now, since the next two steps will be most
difficult if you don't.
10) Radiator. Some may say "go with the midpipe!!", while others may have said "You should have gone
with a radiator 1st!", I believe responcibility is the key. By this point, you will have the technical
information infront of you to be a safe (for the car) driver. Before jumping into the next few steps,
it is a good point to continue with the reliabiltiy. Most everything else from these next few points will
start adding horsepower, while knicking your reliabiltiy. Grab a good radiator, don't be cheasy.
I would recomend Fluidyne. The mounting location depends on what decide to do on number 8.
Use watter wetter with your coolant as well. Doing this modification will provide reliability.
11) Intercooler. Well, here is a chance to define how you want your car to be. What do you do primarily
with this car? Is it a weekend warrior/drag racing killer? Or is it an AutoX or RoadRace car? The difference
is which intercooler you go with. An upgraded Stock-mount or CWS intercooler is best used with a
RoadRacing/AutoX scenario. In these types of usage, you want the radiator to be up front collecting that
cool air first. For street warrior/drag racing, grab a front mount intercooler. Which brand depends on
what you are doing. If going with a stock-mount intercooler, I would recomend Peter Ferrels unit.
It works well.As for a FMIC, in your case, I would go with an Apexi unit. Don't be confused in buying the
'biggest of the biggest'; meaning, don't buy a Greddy 3 row, since your boost will be 16 and below.
These intercoolers are for high-boost scenarios.
12) Piping Because your redoing your intercooler configuration, now is the chance to clean up some of those
bottlenecks/weird bends. I would recomend going with a greddy elbow (even one with a BOV flange), and an
Efini Y-Pipe. Then, get some nice 3" or 2 - 2/3 piping fabricated to the sections. Buy some matching/contrasting
silicone piping connectors.
13) BOV Since you have the flange for it now, it would be a good turbo saver on unwanted backlash pressure.
14) Turbo timer Ok... here is the deal on this one. Get one, but don't use it for a turbo safty application,
rather an engine application. In all reality, if you drive your car hard you should drive some cool off laps.
But, in the cases you cant, use the timer. Take notice: The stock turbos are oil cooled, and water cooled;
therefore the turbo timer really doesn't help as many people think they do.
15) SparkPlugs. Again, I would recomend changing your plugs to some 'racing' plugs by this point.
It never hurts (except maybe mpg economy.. But thats not what we are here for is it?) and offers safty.
I would also recomend you go with some thicker plug wires while your at it. Stay with NGK plugs. Doing this
would be a reliability and power gain (not much power, but it helps!).
16) Fuel! As you start to reach into the heavy power delivery, fuel upgrades are recomended. At the mininum,
I would at least get a new fuel pump. Upgraded injectors/rails depends on you. If you do go with upgraded
injectors/rails you will have to decide how you want to control them, in which this relates back to the ECU you
choose. Remember, you can always buy a fuel controller seperatly, but I recomend against it. This will enable you
to run more power reliable.
17) Fan Mod. I would do the FAN mod at this point to provide you with that extra tad bit of cooling. Basically,
this modification forces your fans to run in high-speed mode all the time, vs the other speeds. Doing this mod will
provide reliabilty.
18) Thermostat Change This depends on your car. You may not need it in the region you are in. But, if you drive
the car hard, its recomended. Go with a colder thermostat, or drill yours out. This will push the coolant
through earlier in the game. Doing this mod will provide reliabilty.
19) Mid-Pipe Hang-on baybee! Thats what you will be thinking when you take your cat out of the car and put a
straight through pipe on the car. If you do each piece individually, this will be the component that you will recognize
the most power gains. Watch the boost creep! Doing this modification is a power gain, and -1 off on reliability.
20) Boost controller. With open exhaust and intake, your boost is going to start to creep and spike upwards.
There is a lot of controller units out there on the market. Depending on what your goal is, decide on the product.
I will let you do the research here. Basically, if you are looking for something to completly tune every 500 rpm
increments of boost, delays, etc go with the Apexi AVC-R. If your looking for a good twist and turn go type, grab a
Greddy ProfecB.
21) Pully kit. Well, we are getting down to the little things that are needed. A Pully kit will give you a little hp.
But anything works. Do some research on this, and choose the appropriate kit.
22) Ignition Amp. I recomend you go with a unit that DOES NOT REQUIRE splicing into the coil harness. Some units do,
and this is a nono in my book. It seems that once you start cutting into the resistance of the wire, bad things COULD
happen. Either way, my recomendation is the HKS Twin Power. Easy bolt on. This will give you more power.
23) Removing the AWS. Removing the Accelerated Warmup system should be done next. I recomend you should cut the
butterflies in the manifold out as well. Since you are disabling this, the butterflies sit in there in an 'open' state.
Removing these, and capping the holes has actually shown RWHP gains. Coincident? Maybe. But, anything to remove
turbulance going into the engine must help. Doing this mod may provide more power.
24) Short Shifter kit This would be a good time to start doing the driveline/other sections of the car. Go ahead and
get a short shifter. Everyone needs one! heh
25) Clutch. Your going to need a clutch real soon with all these modifications. Remember though, we are only running
at 12 psi max right now. Why? So your damn car doesn't fall apart. Grab a good clutch. ACT/BONEZ is an excellent clutch
that will last you a good period of time. I would recomend staying away from centerforce. Some people have had good
things to say, but most I talk to don't. I didn't. Also, you don't need a clutch that is 'on/off' either, unless you want
to look like a fool driving around town lurching everywhere.
26) Lower weight flywheel. Any recipicating mass that you remove helps. This happens to bring your RPMS up a little
quicker too. As you will start to notice, we are just about done with performance. Now we are getting into the little
things that do make a difference.
27) Suspension kit. If you are making 397 rwhp with the stock suspension, throw a suspension kit on there. You will then
make 397 afterwords, yet your car can be faster. Suspension tuning can counter the horsepower blues. Have fun playing!
28) Beefy rear end!. Throw a KAAZ 1.5 LSD in there. This will help on those 7k launches. Trust me, it is no fun
braking the pumkin in two. Its very costly I might add.
29) 4.33 gears Well, changing the gearing always improves some sort of time. Generally, people that have changed
to these gears don't notice a 'speed' increasement, but rather the 'correct' rpm in racing. Depends on your application.
30) Upgraded power plant frame. Mazdaspeed sells a nice one. Its red too.
31) Upgraded axles. No one likes a week link in the equation, and your axles will be it. Grab some nice chromoly
ones. Hope you have some money left over.
32) Weight Reduction. Again, if you are at 397 rwhp, take some weight off and stop eating the McDonalds breakfast.
This will make the car seem as though it has 410 rwhp. But in your case, it will just bring the car down to the weight before you added all the body kits.
33) What ever you do!........ Dont let your girl touch the damn thing... take it from somone who knows...
ps. thanks to Mike for supplying the info to me in the first place...
07-23-02, 03:49 PM
#38
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Antonio, Tx
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Aight man,
Thanks for the info.
I saved it on my computer so I can have something to use as steps.
E-Mail me at f4ever_romeo@hotmail.com
So i can ask u some questions on this post.
Peace
Thanks for the info.
I saved it on my computer so I can have something to use as steps.
E-Mail me at f4ever_romeo@hotmail.com
So i can ask u some questions on this post.
Peace
07-23-02, 04:21 PM
#39
I Post Mad Quick Yo!
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Markham, Ont. Can.
Posts: 1,248
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Done...
i dont check my email that often though...
its faster if you just Pm (private message) me..
bottom left of my box between profile and search "Pm"
oh and btw, Robs site is a really big help also..
i dont check my email that often though...
its faster if you just Pm (private message) me..
bottom left of my box between profile and search "Pm"
oh and btw, Robs site is a really big help also..
Last edited by Mld>7; 07-23-02 at 04:30 PM.
07-25-02, 01:43 AM
#40
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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You said this...
I am NOT saying females can't drive.... but have her sit down with you and read the important stuff too! Like to watch for boost spikes and the like. You can't just get into this car and think that it will be reliable while you are away (I am sure you know this). It needs constant tunning and a close eye and ear! I just want you to be careful.
BTW.. what branch of the military?
Marines myself.
- Eric
I want to modify it quickly because i am leaving soon for the military and it will be my girls car till i get back. And i'll be home every once in a while and i want it to be done already.
BTW.. what branch of the military?
Marines myself.
- Eric
07-25-02, 01:34 PM
#41
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I'm going into the Navy.
I thaught about the Marines but my aunt told me it was a bad idea because she was in there and i sort of have a family tradition in the Navy.
Plus they gave me a 24000 dollar bonus.
I thaught about the Marines but my aunt told me it was a bad idea because she was in there and i sort of have a family tradition in the Navy.
Plus they gave me a 24000 dollar bonus.
07-25-02, 07:45 PM
#42
Part out my Car
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Denver, Colorado
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Hey start looking here http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/
and www.rx7turboturbo.com
and just read. You can learn alot for these 2 sites
ohh and dont let your girl drive your car. please!!!!!!!
Marc
and www.rx7turboturbo.com
and just read. You can learn alot for these 2 sites
ohh and dont let your girl drive your car. please!!!!!!!
Marc
07-25-02, 10:10 PM
#43
Out of order
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Also, this is from my first hand experience.
Get a compression test on your motor, so you know what level playing field yer on. A compression test runs $75 from Mazda, and a good compression number is 8-9, with 7 being acceptable. When i bought my FD, the owner assured me he had it tested, and it pulled an 8. I bought a car with a 6 compression. felt like it had power, but was dwindeling. If anything, make sure you ALWAYS have a spare grand around, bc **** does happen on the FD. Its not exactly low maint., so be ready to change sparks and fuel filters every 15k or so, and oil filters every 2k miles.
My motor is basically on its way out. When yours goes, you have to options. Taking it to Mazda and paying them a boatload, or getting a performance motor from Pettit, KDR, or Rotorsports Racing, for cheaper, yet more reliable.
Also, invest in a Fluidyne Radiator, or a Koyo if yer decent at fabrications. Trust me, since the FD's run hotter than my ex during. . . . nevermind. Also, if possible, invest in a Mazdaspeed replica vented hood. They run 600 bucks brand new from the RX-7 store, and they will DRAMATICALLY help out in the cooling issues.
thats all ima post for now, if you need more, post. Im in here almost as often as TPC playa, and will lend my .02 to ya
Get a compression test on your motor, so you know what level playing field yer on. A compression test runs $75 from Mazda, and a good compression number is 8-9, with 7 being acceptable. When i bought my FD, the owner assured me he had it tested, and it pulled an 8. I bought a car with a 6 compression. felt like it had power, but was dwindeling. If anything, make sure you ALWAYS have a spare grand around, bc **** does happen on the FD. Its not exactly low maint., so be ready to change sparks and fuel filters every 15k or so, and oil filters every 2k miles.
My motor is basically on its way out. When yours goes, you have to options. Taking it to Mazda and paying them a boatload, or getting a performance motor from Pettit, KDR, or Rotorsports Racing, for cheaper, yet more reliable.
Also, invest in a Fluidyne Radiator, or a Koyo if yer decent at fabrications. Trust me, since the FD's run hotter than my ex during. . . . nevermind. Also, if possible, invest in a Mazdaspeed replica vented hood. They run 600 bucks brand new from the RX-7 store, and they will DRAMATICALLY help out in the cooling issues.
thats all ima post for now, if you need more, post. Im in here almost as often as TPC playa, and will lend my .02 to ya
07-29-02, 11:45 PM
#45
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Location: South Lyon, Mich
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Originally posted by ExcelR8
I'm not really going to work on the performance aspect of the car but rather the look.
I'm not really going to work on the performance aspect of the car but rather the look.
Please man, understand that the members on this forum care about our car dearly, and to see somebody that bought it because of a movie and seems to know little about the Rotary engine just drives us insane, we know that you or your girlfriend will kill the car soon and think it's a peice of **** but you didn't take care of it. Understand why we're flaming and just read up a bit before you start saying your going to do things to the car that'll put one out of 13,000 (less then acually) of our cars to death. If you ever have any questions feel free to post them, no matter how dumb you think they might be. We're very helpful when a newbie joins the world of the Rotary.
Last edited by NickSimcheck; 07-29-02 at 11:48 PM.
07-29-02, 11:50 PM
#46
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Thanx. Everyone is giving me a hard time cuz i'm a newbie. I havent been fortunate enough to keep one yet. I got one but had to give it up 2 days later cuz i didnt have the rest of the payment.
But i'm here trying to learn, before i actually get the car and get a chance to mess it up.
But i'm here trying to learn, before i actually get the car and get a chance to mess it up.
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