I think I read one thread where someone tried to replace the Bose woofers in the "snake" tube.

Is it possible to do this and still get decent sound?

Anyone have suggestions for a small Bass unit? I used to be impressed with the Bass Tubes, but they don't have the impact I think real subs have.

 

It's a sports car, not a stereo.

 

I must say My Bose system sounds great, the guy I bought it from really took care of it and turning the *** past 9 or 10 o clock is too loud to enjoy ....
and no I'm not 60 :-) I'm 27 and enjoy loud music... so maybe I'll mess it up in time and it won't be as loud...
But then again I just had a downpipe installed and thre previous owner removed the muffler... so all I have to muffle my beast is 1 CAT and that makes a heck of a lot sweeter sound than any Stereo ! :-)
Wroomm Wroomm Wrommm !

Derek

 

All too true. But between the R1 and the touring, I like the touring.

If I had the pedal mashed to the floor everywhere I went, maybe I would change my mind. But I'd like some decent tunes to just "cruise" to.

The RX-7 is a phat car, and I think some would agree, that a phat stereo system is fitting.

I'm thinking actually a new Kenwood DVD navigation system, along with that new Kenwood KEG music hard drive so I can have my whole CD collection in MP3's in my car is going to be my replacement system for the Bose.

 

The McIntosh amps were really really good. Excellent detail and controlled the mid ranges as good as possible. I sold them because they were HUGE amps. With that being said I don't really miss too much with my JL amps. I have been very pleased with the JL amps.

 

Good ambiance at rest, but
wind and road noise tend to exceed Bose volume limits and especially the treble sounds that make speach inteligababble.
I think a clever design would sense ambiant noise and in response, crank the center speaker and it's treble.
Any bored electronic audio tweakers out there that want to address the tiny market for such? And figure out how to remove/replace or patch it in?

 

Replying to the earlier post asking if you can replace the subs in the snake...

Well, I carefully stripped my snake down and ordered up a JL Audio 6.5" sub to replace the 2 Bose drivers which are glued together in an isobaric configuration. I also removed the 2 Bose amps that power the drivers.

Fitted the JL sub with some stress - it is a *very* tight fit and only fits one way round as it is much deeper than either of the original drivers.

Connected it to my amp with a crossover and... it sounds ****. The Bose housing just can't seem to take any decent amount of bass without distorting like crazy. Nothing I could do would seem to reduce the crazy amount of distortion I was getting

That was the end of that project!

> Chaz <

 

I just pulled my snake apart this weekend as well. The Bose system works on the principle of two speakers facing each other playing in phase electricaly, but out of phase mechanically. What this means is rather than both speakers moving back and forth in the same direction at the same time, they move opposite each other. This seems counterintuitive until you realize that both speakers moving in the same direction at the same time would just shift air back and forth in the tube, which results in silence! I know, I tried it

So the single speaker thing won't work, as Nakasaki found out. What's needed are two 6.5" speakers with relatively small magnet structures... which is what's in there. What would make more sense is to find speaks with harder radiating surfaces, wider voicecoils to distribute the energy more efficiently, and better surround material, such as butyl. I'm looking....

Also, the stock amps for the snake are driving 1 Ohm nominal load impedance speakers (measure 1.6 Ohm, but still!!) so anything we replace them with needs be 2 Ohm, or the stock amps will not give much sound.

Further, they are "cross wired" wherein the signal from the hot side of the opposite channel is fed to the common of the right channel (all at line level). What this amounts to is a reduction of signal heard, but more even sound for stereo bass signals. Were it otherwise, you would hear peaks in the bass for stereo equivalent bass, and not nearly as much sound for left only or right only signals. If you are considering an aftermarket head unit with single sub out, then you can wire these in a cross fashion at the connector (top left connector as signal hot left side, middle lower connector assignal cold left side, and vice verse for the right side, or just combine them) to get some fairly good base in a small package. The amps pull roughly 1 ampere at max output.

Lastly, the amps roll off above 250 Hz, and the system produces effective bass down to 28 cycles, with a pretty big hump at 50 cycles.

Not that anybody cares...