I just received some new speakers for christmas:
Infinity Kappa 60.7 (6.5" components, 90 W RMS, 2 ohm impedance, external crossover)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-t19pXK6...000&I=108607CS
Infinity Kappa 63.7 (6.5" 3-way speaker, 75 W RMS, 2 ohm impedance, external crossover)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-t19pXK6...2000&I=108637I
(2) 12" Infinity Kappa perfect 12.1 subs (350W RMS, 4 ohm impedance)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-t19pXK6...E1&i=108PER121

I am going to install the components up front, 3-ways in the back, and the subs in a sealed box with poly fill stuffing.

I am running a Pioneer Premier DEH-980 MP deck up front. 16-band equalizer, 5 volt pre-outs, and their iPod interface.

I don't have a heck of a lot of experience with high quality sounding systems, and now have the following questions, which I acnnot find answer to elsewhere.

1. When designing a sub box, do you take into account the volume of the sub?
IE: Infinity recommends a sealed box volume of 1.00 cubic feet each, so would I simply go with something like 12" x 12" x 12" internal dimensions, or would I have to take into account how much the sub sticks into the box, and make the dimensions larger?
I ask b/c the car audio book I have makes reference to this, but gives zero detail.

2. Would it be better for me to use the crossovers on the amplifiers, or the one in the deck?

3. I am considering purchasing this amp for the front speakers:
Alpine MRP-F450
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-t19pXK6...0&I=500MRPF450


The four channel amp will provide 100W RMS at 2 ohms imedance to my speakers. My rear RMS rating is 75W RMS max, and my fronts 90W RMS. Is this amp going to damage my speakers, particularly the rears? Kicker makes an amp that puts out 90W RMS x 4 at 2 ohms for the same price, would this be a better choice?

4. This is the amp I am considering for the subs (I will be wiring them parallel for 2 ohm impedance)
Alpine MRD-M605
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-t19pXK6...0&I=500MRDM605
This puts out ~ 660W at 2 ohms... my subs are rated for 700RMS total. Is this enough for my subs? Should I go for more power?

My main concern is damaging my speakers. I don't tend to listen at very high volumes, and am willing to sacrifice volume for great sound quality.

5. How do I break in my speakers?

and, lastly, question 6:
My car has stock shitty components mounted in the doors (this is my daily driver, 95 integra). Will reusing this existing location for my front components severely sacrifice sound quality? The woofers are mounted low, and the tweets are mounted just below the mirrors. Everything I have read says mounting at the kick-panel location provides severely increased sound quality, and Q-logic does make the pods to do it, but I don't want to risk driving comfort by making my feet crowded with a speaker jutting out down there.
My deck provides timing alignment: Can I simply use this to make up for the stock speaker location and get as good of sound quality?


Thanks in advance, and for your patience in reading this long *** post.

 

1: Yes you do, take the displacement of the sub out of the total volume of the enclosure. Your specs should be in the manual.
2: Use the x overs for the speakers as they are made specificly for them.
3: I'm an Alpine fan, so I say the Alpine. Don't worry about damaging your speakers from too much power, its when you under power a speaker that damage happens.
4: Since you are running 2 subs to this amp, they will only be seeing 300 wts each max. More power is alwys good, but your subs are maxed at 700 so the 300 should be enough. But remember, more power is always good!
5: Tuff one, if you had a test bench you could run pink noise for a couple of hours and you will be all set. Don't worry about breaking them in, give it a week at normal levels and you will be all set!!!

My headunit also allows for time alignment and I use it even tough I have the speakers in my kicks. With your tweets up high you should be fine!

Sounds like a great set up, you must include pics upon completion!

 

Thanks!

For question 2, I meant to refer to the HPF and LPF on the amp versus the ones in the deck.

I have another question: Any reason (vibration) why I can't bolt the amps to the sub box?

I don't know if pics are all that necessary... I'm not going to have any fancy molded boxes or anything. Just a big square carpeted sub box, and hopefully speakers in the stock locations.

So here is the spec sheet included with my sub.

Does this mean that with the sub installed, I still build 1.00 square feet (1 foot square box)? I don't see a volume listed to subtract for the sub volume.

 

Ok, question number 2: use the amplifiers x-overs.
Looks like infinity took into account the speaker displacement on that picture. Just to make sure call their tech department and make sure. When they mention fiberfill, just go to your local fabric store and pick up some pillow stuffing, 1 lb for every cuft of space, so you need 1.
As for the amps, people have since the dawn of audio mounted their amps to the box. I've done it and had no ill effects, so don't worry about it.

 

I just bought my amp for my subs.
I ended up going with the Alpine MRP-M1005.
The test sheet says it puts out 1109 W at 2 ohms.


Now, I know to run the RCA and power wires separately, but do I have to run the speaker level wires separately as well? The book I have says I do, but the guy at the audio store said I can run the RCA's and the speaker wires together.

Thanks again, John! You're the master.

 

You can run the RCA's and speaker wire together with no issues. Anytime you cross them, make sure you do it at a 90 degree. You don't want to run the power wires and speaker/ rca's together. You can run your remote turn on with your speaker or power lines.

Remember you must post picks when its all done.