99 spec bumpers
04-22-02, 10:00 AM
#2
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I had a body shop do mine, so I don't have specifics on the installation 'experience' but here's what I know:
You have to buy the front end bumper, lower airdam/spoiler (2 pieces) & combo lights. The combo lights don't match the '93 connectors so you have to re-wire the connection (minor). Also, you should buy the 99' rebar for proper fitment, although i've heard you can keep the 93' rebar but it requires modifications. You can keep the 93 splashguard (under the car) but requires some finesse to bolt it up, then, due to larger intake, the top layer (it is v-shaped at front) kind of lays exposed to the airstream, but this could easily be taped/sealed up. Apparently you can buy the 99 spashguard now also.
You can leave the existing oil cooler duct, you may want to seal it better to the larger opening - the mazda competition website offers '99 ducts', but i've previously run into some confusion about availability & what exactly these are.
The fog lights are also separate from any one selling the 'front end package' and are too expensive ($450-$500) - just buy something that looks about the same size. I would run these independant of headlight activation so you can switch on without the headlights.
Finally, you need to seal of a variety of gaps and openings so that air flows where you want it - on the radiator and intercooler duct, not around and over it. (there is a separate duct behind the license plate bracket) - i have yet to finish this on mine and get minor hood flutter over 65 mph.
You can buy fibreglass versions of the bumper with the license bracket removed (pettit) but personally i would stick with the original - I actually like the bracket, since i have to have a front plate.
It's well worth the investment! The car looks like a factory new 2000 RX7!
You have to buy the front end bumper, lower airdam/spoiler (2 pieces) & combo lights. The combo lights don't match the '93 connectors so you have to re-wire the connection (minor). Also, you should buy the 99' rebar for proper fitment, although i've heard you can keep the 93' rebar but it requires modifications. You can keep the 93 splashguard (under the car) but requires some finesse to bolt it up, then, due to larger intake, the top layer (it is v-shaped at front) kind of lays exposed to the airstream, but this could easily be taped/sealed up. Apparently you can buy the 99 spashguard now also.
You can leave the existing oil cooler duct, you may want to seal it better to the larger opening - the mazda competition website offers '99 ducts', but i've previously run into some confusion about availability & what exactly these are.
The fog lights are also separate from any one selling the 'front end package' and are too expensive ($450-$500) - just buy something that looks about the same size. I would run these independant of headlight activation so you can switch on without the headlights.
Finally, you need to seal of a variety of gaps and openings so that air flows where you want it - on the radiator and intercooler duct, not around and over it. (there is a separate duct behind the license plate bracket) - i have yet to finish this on mine and get minor hood flutter over 65 mph.
You can buy fibreglass versions of the bumper with the license bracket removed (pettit) but personally i would stick with the original - I actually like the bracket, since i have to have a front plate.
It's well worth the investment! The car looks like a factory new 2000 RX7!
04-22-02, 05:14 PM
#3
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Awesome post Sandecker, lots of good info. BTW the 99 rebar is over $300. I am going to spring for the 99 undertray and airguide. These are relatively cheap. I have heard that you don't NEED the rebar, but that it is better for safety. Can't you bolt on the old stock fog lights? What is this hood flutter? Do you have a stock hood. Do you have a stock intake?
04-23-02, 01:18 PM
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Yes you can use the stock foglights - but since your updating the front end anyway, i'd put high quality (ie IPF) '99 style lights (large round), to finish the 'look' - the '93 lights are pretty weak anyway.
The hood flutter: A strong wind gust or sustained highspeed causes some movement in the hood (stock) which I had'nt noticed with the original bumper - due to the much larger openings of the new bumper, and because I have'nt finished sealing off a few passages/gaps that allow air gusts to hit the underside of the hood.
The hood flutter: A strong wind gust or sustained highspeed causes some movement in the hood (stock) which I had'nt noticed with the original bumper - due to the much larger openings of the new bumper, and because I have'nt finished sealing off a few passages/gaps that allow air gusts to hit the underside of the hood.
