Tried starting my FC REW Haltech E8 swap tonight. Using stock FC coils too.
So I made sure the haltech was getting an RPM reading, and it stayed online while cranking.
As I was cranking, the engine would make a "pop" sound like it wanted to start, but then it just ended up flooding.
I also noticed the TPS was at 0% no matter what position the throttle was in.

Throughout the cranking, it WANTED to start, but it just soaked the plugs.
Is the TPS my problem? I'll pick up some new plugs also.

PS, I have a short data log if anyone needs that to determine my problem, the engine has no emissions and such as well.

 

that description is a bit vague , it could be many things... Do you have spark at the plugs? did you zero the timing? what are your trigger settings... what is your fuel pressure? you say your getting an RPM reading, what is it showing?

why is your TPS not reading correctly?

is your battery fully charged?

I suggest turning your injectors off while you diagnose all your other problems

 

Yeah sorry it was a bit vauge but your answer gives me ideas as to where to start looking.
RPM reading was around 250rpm when the battery was charged, I'll double check the spark AT the plugs and buy new plugs. Fuel pressure is no problem.

BTW, Im using a MAP that was on the Haltech when I bought it which was tuned for the same setup as mine.

Im new to all of this, so forgive me for looking past the "obvious" parts, I appreciate you pointing them out.
Thanks

Oh, and Im not sure whats with the TPS, Ill have to test to make sure its still working and to double check the wiring.

 

TPS could just need to be calibrated in the ECU.

 

Have you zeroed the timing? Pops usually mean the timing is off.

 

My buddy remembered the Timing is 0 and 11.6

 

0 and 11.6 what?

 

oh boy...

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...9&postcount=18

 

does this apply to the REW engine as well?

 

Same procedure different settings. The REW has the timing mark at 20 ATDC. So you can enter 0 for leading timing lock and -20 for trailing lock. You'll then need to hook the timing light to T1 to verify the trigger angle.

 

right on, thanks for the help...i went with your advice before and it proved to be good!
Cheers

 

So I set it at:
Lock degrees BTDC: 0
Lock degrees trailing split: -20
Trigger angle BTDC: 65

Here's a screenshot.
Im probably missing something obvious, but its not really doing anything different than before...
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...al/haltech.jpg

 

rew trigger?

Search the forum for trigger angle for the trigger that you used, start with the specs recommended by claudio then use a timing lite to verify and fine tune.

 

That should be real close. What does the timing light say? Why do you have a diagnostic error? That could be a big part of your problem.

 

timing light will be checked tonight, and the diag error is because the WB O2 inst plugged in yet...although were going to plug it in to make sure that its not something else, as well.


the car pops occasionally, then keeps cranking and just fouls the plugs. new plugs are here today, and we'll check the timing and see what happens.


i presume if the timing is off, we change the trigger angle until it gets close? and keep the leading and trailing locked at 0 and 20?

 

Not having the wideband connected will not give a diagnostic error. Check the CLT, AIT, MAP, and TPS values. If they are out of the norm that is your diagnostic errorand could be the cause of the no start. No sense in even trying to start it until you have the timing zeroed anyway.

 

just as well, because (out of curiosity since my throttle inputs werent helping with it starting...) i had jordan check the TPS values on the datalog to see if it was doing anything, and it wasnt.


thats probably the main error right there!

 

TPS we arent getting anything, we're gonna try and recalibrate it.
MAP reading is 70.9kpa
Air temp is 127* which is impossible ..... LOL EDIT: I took the UIM off so i forgot the plug, actual reading is 27*
Water temp is 24.8*

We were going to check the timing when we noticed the light was only firing every couple of seconds. So we yanked a plug out and were checking the spark and notcied the same thing, sparks twice per 10 cranks or so...

So now we got more trouble shooting, any ideas?

SO THERES NO DIAGNOSTICS ERROR ANYMORE

 

The MAP reading is wrong. It should be near 0 kPa with key on engine off. So it's showing way more load than you actually have. You know the IAT reading is wrong and so is the TPS. To be brutally honest it sounds like the install has been pretty well botched and that is likely the source of all the problems. Instead of spending time trying to make what you have work I would recommend going back over the install and sounding out each circuit pin to pin. Once you know everything is connected right and has continuity then you can try to start it.

 

TBH, it was pretty badly botched- we're in the process of fixing everything that the last guy didnt.

we shall go though and check everything for continuity to make sure its all working. other than that....any ideas for this ignition problem?

not enough sparks for the leading, and no spark on the trailing.

 

When I asked for a prewired harness for a 13b-REW, I was expecting a half decent job.
The previous owner seemed to be pretty good with his FD, was a frequent user of the Haltech forum, but whatever.
Everything that I've done personally has been right, just like Jeff said, we're fixing previous mistakes.
I would like to get the ignition problem sorted out first, and then proceed to rewire the sensors

 

Bump for my coil issue.
Leading fires, cranks for a few turns, and then fires again, but I get nothing on the trailing. Tried two different coils, checked and rechecked the wiring.