Hello, if you've followed me though wiring and still arn't p'd off at me yet.
This hopefully will be my very last post.
Would like to use this one as a guide.
(So many posts due to Jspec...)

Ok, So After reading hitmas guide and cas.
I have "fingers crossed", set my belt to the *true* -5 yellow marker.
and stabbed my cas and BARLEY turned the top to match.

Before I started I checked all the fuses and, wraped up loose ends.

I have Got into my E6K basemap have loaded it as an archive not(read only).

Im ONLINE with the Ignition on and the Stock 3bar s4/s5 tuning tech basemap loaded.

The Trigger angle is set to 67, and the coils at 3.5ms.(un-modified map)
Before I turn the key (tomorrow hopefully).

I'm asuming I set the lock timing to ON and set that to -5 after that is input I press ok? or enter whatever it may be and then from ON-START.

I should be good to go on the timing light producedure? and future tuning?
Is their anything im overlooking?

My real question is Before Ignition(ON to START) I should have my timing lock to ON with -5 value?
(My ECU gets power on/off all good though and though,sensors are reading current temperaturs of garage as it's been sitting for month)

 

Thanks for ROTO I got it done and running. But new issue starting idle and test on no injectors was 120RPM,

So I cranked it back to -5 and set and locked timing to -5. Started the engine and it sounds good. dededede dededede at 120RPM but it stayed and idled at 120RPM for 8seconds and I decided to turn it off not knowing what too do from here.

Did I miss wire my TPS? I got 825 OHLMS like it was before setup and 1225ohlm on other two wires.
Anyone got a clue on why it's starting idle won't pick up at it stays at 120rpm.

Aside from that 4.5 on coils that I changed.
Like i said no pings no backfireing, just low idle no odd noises just that of a 120rpm rotary.


Didn't give it gas didn't touch let it go didn't stall just 100-120 rumble.

I have a BAC intercooler piping hose, no AC hoses, I have a BAC connector wired into my Haltech but is currently not connect in car not on the BAC itself in the engine bay.
My Stock N374 ecu had it wired up my E6K does but isn't, wondering if I should Tighten my BAC and use the connector? If that has anything helpfull.(Was 17*C)
Only thing comes to mind is TPS wiring and or 2ndary injector but I got my Injtor 4 on pink so those are fine. getting power.

 

Hello UPDATE:

I have wired it up correctly White as signal blue as ground orange as power.

I do have some complications.
When testing my TPS it works, but few components arn't working so well.

Testing gives me 780, and 1,200 ohlms on power.

The issues im having are that When adjusting the screw it gives me same/ similar readings whole time? is this related to haltech program?
Another would be a sweep of 750-1400ohlms. it maxes out at 1,400.

With the battery connected same thing but some inconsitant readings sweeping would go
smooth on slow if faster pressure on the throttle arm gives you spikes with proper increments. 750-800- 1000- 900.

Honestly don't know why it starts and idles at 120rmp can't get past it. As wiring goes it works, But Don't want to start giving it gas... but maby it's fuel issue, it's running on priming fuel only? Ill double check but thats as far as im getting today.

 

I started it up again, with unknown adjustments to the tps it did idle higher
580-600 on boost controller 190 on the taco.

Gave it some gas got 600rpm reading on taco 1,480 on boost controller.

Smells like too much fuel like on a lawn mower.

Anyone know how I should go about trouble shooting?

Im just getting the asumption on the fuel injectors.

Only good thing so far is no Pinging or backfiring.

 

find out what the true rpms are. are you using a basemap?

 

Yes Using the stock E6K by tuningtechnolgys< on the haltech basemap page.

Im going to check my CAS for dammage then re-stabb re use Hitmans Trigger/offset and use 4.5MS for coils. then Will try again.

As for the True rpms are, It's giving me those eatherway It rumbles hardcore, so yeah 120-190. Not sure what method your talking about TPS or actual flywheel/crank timing light method.

Will attempt once more before I go heavy into research, but I will start the engine and Ctrl D and look at my fuel/ignition in options.and somehow save it.

 

I didn't think it was possible to idle that low... 120rpm really!?

As for the TPS, it's really irrelevant for idle on the E6k. However, it is used for throttle accelerator/pump, fuel cut off, and dead band. But all that comes later...

BUT! Did you calibrate the TPS using the E6k software?

As far as the BAC goes, you need to program it as an output on the E6k. You can't just wire it up and expect it to work.

 

Thanks beefhole you solves my BAC question But here is my NEW!!!! revolation!
DRUM ROLL!!!!!! Didn't connect pressure line to 3bar map sensor....
Engine was running off 0 pressure pretty well so... 120RPM!

Ok as for the issues one!


MY NEW QUESTIONS to solve 100%
1. NO i didn't calibrate Should I enable the idle speed control? is this what your refering too?
2. What should I do with the old check valve pressure line as well as the other.
*the two lines running into the old air intake rubber elbow*
Should I remove rubber hoses and close of the hardlines or just leave those two open..


Thats should be it. I re-stabbed my CAS so -5 once I get the rest situated.

THE freeking map sensor might explain 99%. I let the engine idle and gased it to 600-1400rpm so I didn't do anything but burn enough gas and coil, and tickle the internals.
sooo sad.

For my fuel pump is it's wired with the power relay for it's trigger to the leading coil green connector.

 

The map sensor would explain it. When it's seeing atmosphere 0/0 vacuum/boost, it was probably dumping 7ms of fuel for idle, rather than say... 2ms. So 3.5 times the amount of fuel needed to idle was being used, so it was really drowning the engine, causing it to idle low and probably make you dizzy from the fumes!

1. You should calibrate the TPS. Won't explain further, just do it.

2. I am not sure what lines you mean, but it sounds like emissions stuff. When in doubt, leave it on. It could be part of the evap/pcv system, I would leave it in. I recently reinstalled all of mine. It helps vent the "crank case" and cuts down on gas fumes in the engine bay.

I have no idea what you are doing with the fuel pump. The E6k has it's own circuit, you should wire it per the instruction manual!

Here are the instructions to get you started with the BAC idle control valve (these are not mine):
HITMAN’S GUIDE TO SETTING UP YOUR BAC.
Please note that this is a simple guide and some things may change
from one
car to the other. I am going to base this article on the Series
4/5 13BT
motor, which so many on the Haltech list have.


BAC , WHAT IS IT ?
First of all a description of what BAC idle control is and what it
does.
BAC stands for Bypass Air Control. It is a system where a passage
of air
around is setup around the throttle plate to allow the engine to
raise and
lower in rpm. This variation of rpm is usually controlled via a 2
or 3 wire
solenoid. This solenoid is pulsed at a particular frequency, which
varies
from solenoid to solenoid. It is the length of each of these
pulses that
determines how much air is allowed to go in. The larger the time
the more
the valve is head open and the more air goes in. The more air that
goes in
the higher the rpm. This is all controlled by the ECU.


HOW DO I SET IT UP WITH MY HALTECH E6K?
I will cover the 2-wire types here, but 3-wire BAC slave type
systems are
very similar. You should also not try and enable your BAC or fine
tune it
until your motor is completely tuned. Having tuning issues around
the idle
speed region will make it difficult to set up the BAC.

The 2-wire types are very easy to wire up. All you need is to
select a PWM
wire that you have free, and run this along with a 12V+ Grey/Red
wire to the
BAC valve and connect them. It should not matter which pin is
positive or
negative.
Now, if you go online with your Haltech, go to the PWM Output
Options page
by hitting CTRL-W.
Go down to the PWM output number that corresponds the the wire you
connected
to the BAC, and with the TAB key toggle through until you get the
BAC Valve
option. When you do, hit the ENTER key. This will lock it in as
the
desired output. It will then give you two options under BAC
Valve. One os
to Enable or Disable the feature, the other is the Period (or
frequency) at
which the solenoid will be pulsed. This value is usually found
through exper
imentation, or by simply asking someone who has done it before.
On the
13BT motor which I am using as an example, the I have found to work
well is
around 24ms. Others may find values that differ, so use whatever
works best.
Once Enabled the BAC output will start to function and now needs to
be
setup. Do not Enable the BAC at this point, we have other areas to
cover
first.

Here is where it gets a little confusing. If you go to the Output
Options
page by hitting CTRL-O, you will see the Idle Speed Control
feature. In
order to use BAC this feature needs to be left DISABLED. The
settings here
will still work but only if left in Disabled Mode. If Enabled the
E6K will
think you are trying to run a 4-wire stepper motor for idle
control, and not
a BAC valve.

What needs to be done now is to set the throttle stop. What we
generally
need to do is to setup the throttle stop to maintain idle speed
around 50 to
150rpm below the Target Idle Speed we wish to obtain. Once this is
done the
throttle stop can be locked and the TPS will need to be
recalibrated. If the
TPS reads anything other than 0% or 0% Fault then the BAC function
will not
work.

The next step is to go an Enable the BAC Valve PWM Output. Hit
CTRL-W and
go down to BAC Valve and change it to Enable. Once done go to the
Output
Options page and you can start adjusting the Idle Speed Control
settings.
Remember to leave this feature as DISABLED so that the settings
will effect
the BAC and not try to use the 4-wire stepper motor.


IDLE SPEED CONTROL SETTINGS
This is a short summary of what the Idle Speed Control settings
do. This is
based on Firmware 14 and software 6.34 which is the current release
at the
time. Some settings may differ if you are using another software
and
firmware version.

Target Idle Speed - This one is pretty obvious. This is the idle
speed
that you wish the engine to be at under normal conditions.

Cold Idle-Up RPM - This is the amount of RPM added to the Target
Idle Speed
when the coolant temperature is below the amount set under Cold
Temp. Limit.

Start RPM - The amount of RPM added to the Target Idle Speed for
the first
20 seconds after starting the motor. It is done to help stabilise
things.

Number of Steps - This sets the increments in which the BAC is
controlled.
It is another word for sensitivity. I usually start around 100 and
use trial
and error from there.

Cold Temp. Limit - The value under which the engine is considered
to be
cold.

Cold Min Position - The minimum duty the solenoid will be pulsed
at while
the engine coolant temp is below the figure set in the Cold Temp.
Limit.
More on this later.

Hot Min Position - The minimum duty the solenoid will be pulsed
at while
the engine is at operating temperature. More on this later.

Cold Opening Position - The duty at which the solenoid is run
during
cranking while the engine is below the Cold Temp Limit. It is to be
set
higher than the Cold Min Position and acts the same way as opening
the
throttle during cranking.

Hot Opening Position - The duty at which the solenoid is run during
cranking while the engine is at operating temp. It should be set
higher than
the Hot Min Position.


HOW TO USE THE IDLE CONTROL SETINGS ON A REAL CAR
After we have the car idling on the throttle stop and we have
Enabled the
BAC, this is the process to go through to obtain the best idle speed
control. Setup should be done initially with the engine at
operating temp,
then later go through and do the cold engine settings.

First we need to set the Target idle speed. Easy enough to do. If
we want
900rpm idle then set it to 900.
Next to setup is the Hot Min Position. This is rather simple to
do. Set a
target idle speed that is really low. Say 500rpm. This will cause
the BAC
to almost completely turn off and rely on the throttle stop to keep
the car
idling. If everything is working correctly then you should have the
engine
idling on around 800rpm if the throttle stop is correctly setup.
What we do
now is to increase the Hot Min Position until the revs start to
rise. When
we can get an idle just below 900rpm (the target idle speed) then
the Hot
Min Position is set. We can now change the Target Idle Speed back
to 900rpm.
Next on the list is to do the Hot Opening Position. To do this you
set a
value a little higher than the Hot Min Position. I usually add
around 20%
to it. Now switch off the engine and try to restart. If the engine
revs are
low and build up try adding more to the Hot Opening Position. Is
the revs
are too high then lower the value.
The Start RPM can now be set. This just keeps the rpm a little
higher for
the first 20 seconds. A value around 100 or 200 is good enough for
most
applications.

You will have to let the engine sit overnight to be able to do the
Cold
settings. These are done the same way as the Hot settings and will
be
almost always a higher value. Putting in values around 20% higher
than the
Hot values is a good starting point and adjust from there.
First up is the Cold Idle-Up RPM. This can be set so that the RPM
is a
little higher to warm the car up faster, and is set to the users
preference.
A good starting point is 200rpm higher but a higher value is
sometimes
better.
The Cold Min Position can now be set. Try increasing this value
until the
rpm rises above the Cold Idle-Up amount. ie if we have a Target
Idle Speed
of 900 and a Cold Idle-Up of 200 then while the engine is cold it
will idle
at 1100rpm. If we increase the Cold Min Position until the rpm
just starts
to go higher than 1100rpm, then drop it down a little we will have
it set to
its optimum.
The Cold Opening Position can now be set in the same way the Hot
Opening
position was set. this will be higher in value than the Cold Min
Position.


That just about does it. If followed step by step all should work
well. If
you find the BAC stops working, try checking that the TPS still
reads 0% at
idle. If it fluctuates between 0% and 1% then contact me and I
will show
you how to get around this.

PLEASE NOTE: The 24MS pulse width is not a good value. I would try much lower, around 10-12MS On my own car, 10MS is where it is happiest.

 

That solves that...

Thanks again, (going to just delete and use block off plate for the BAC not 100% in my favour)

As for the Calibrating your TPS... alt s hit space for idle then space agian on full thottle ... done. save it

Eatherway Only thing someone told me about the fuel pump was just to ground it to the chassis and then follow the sensor lines. *saying could be shorting*, only thing that would solve it. Eather or add my own switch.

Well that solves everything I geuss. Cap off old lines from intake elbow, use the old boost controller/sensor line for my Map behind the throttle actuator. done.

 

DIY Timing a 13B | eHow.com

As for the timing heres an excellent write up.

Took me 7 days but found majority of what I needed outside rx7club, why? Who knows
Though I got one some nice information from aus, though 99% of helpers where random on rx7club.

All Done, My issues Leave basemap mostly the same change to 4.5ms inj, seal vacuum leaks.

Mostly my fault for starting these threads, but saddly I didn't find it though the search engine but though very nice members that I randomly asked. (if everything goes well I might make a write up for Jspec, or at least what I did right and wrong for those who have some issues.

 

Anyone have a better value for my CAS as it's completely maxed out on the cas's case, looking from front of engine.

I cannot turn it clockwise facing pullys.

Anyone have a better set of values to set for trigger and offset so I can adjust it counterclockwise. for fine tuning with timing light.


aside from that I found this post
Am I Wrong to say it's backwards, should you be online while the car is off to set the timing lock on, rather the turn the engine on and idle to set the Top dead center.... Asuming your car is running and the TDC is no-longer -5atdc.

I was told many times to Lock in -5 while it's at -5 and just in ONLINE mode with the ignition in the ON position not running.

Once you let it warm up I was told to adjust but not lock the timing after the fact and adjust while entering a useless value into the timing lock.

 

Make sure you stab the CAS properly. This may take a few tries. You want the timing locked while the car is running so you can check with the timing light hitting the marker. If it's off, you can fine tune it by either changing the values in the software, or physically moving the CAS.

 

It's stabbed properly for the fact it has slanted gears.

I go 90% of the way and it turns clockwise when it drops all the way, and i adjust the top so it's facing 1-7 respectively just as it was aligned out of the CRANKHOLE. tee hee

I just don't understand how it works, if your engines running why would you lock timing ON to -5 if it's not in the -5 position beacuse it's turning the pully.
Or does the lock timing just refer to where it was at that point in time rather then where the -5ATDC is currenty in many places to the marker.

 

the timing lock is to stop the ecu making any adjustments while you set timing
the CAS or dizzy will spin back when you drop it home.. not all that hard to mark the inside of the CAS is you have to with paint pen when its all lined up with the dot and dash ..

tooth trigger and offset angle is easy to work out
.. it alters with your individual CAS stab position .. a combination of ECU numbers and the final CAS position influence the outcome

however.. using very basic math , knowing we have 24 teeth and it moves at half engine rpm
its easy to see that a 10 tooth 90 .... is the same as an 11 tooth 60 .. each tooth being 30 degrees at the crank

getting your CAS in the middle of its adjust swing is as simple as setting the lock.. moving the CAS.. and adjusting down or up the offset angle value on the ecu
( # see note further below for certain older haltechs )

you MUST lock the ecu from making corrections,, you MUST set the locked value to that of the timing mark you is lining up .. in this case -5 ( 5 ATDC )

in the case of some early ecus .. you cant set a negative number.. so when using a -5 timing mark they have offset the values in the map 5 degrees .. a 30 in the map is really only 25 BTDC

# in the case specific to older models of haltechs ( older than K ) then there is certain windows of values that you CANT choose to set for tooth and offset .. tying your hands .. and so you move the CAS position slightly ( another subject )

 

Rising RPM - Product - IAC Manifold

Works great on my setup. Let you free up a PWM and use the native Haltech idle speed controls.