SO without typing a book, back in 2002 Demetrious tuned my car, I’m pretty sure he zero'd the timing as well (b4 he tuned I made him well aware I hadn’t). I also had Steve Kan tune it in the 2003-4 time frame and made 465@ 22psi on a very rich conservative map. Well last week I went back to the dyno to tune my map tighter as I run strait c16 now.
Well at 7400 she breaks up bad and falls flat on her face, I never noticed it b/c I thought my crapomeeter tach was off and I was actually at 8k hitting the limiter. I couldn’t be more wrong.
my ignition setup was 2 crane hi-6's firing 2 lx92 coils and stock trailings, I figured somewhere I was picking up emf and decided to ditch one of the hi-6's and go back to running a stock leading coil. At the same time I figured it would be good to check all of the ignition to make sure nothing was off. So I went to check my timing, as in my other thread I had some settings that were off so I corrected the gains, and coil charge time to what is known to work. But with the timing lock on and @ -5 deg my notch is about 10deg b4 the pointer. To get it to line up right I had to put my trigger angle to 78. But then when I started it sounded like crap, and wasn’t happy @ 2k rpms, and the timing was dancing 2-3 deg and missing every couple seconds. But once I brought my trigger angle back to 67 she idled like I knew her 2, but the timing marks are off. What am I doing wrong?

e6k
93fd, stock pulley, everything seems to be for the FC and stabbing the CAS,

thanks

 

so since we all love videos
http://youtu.be/E3jyFenRsDA

but they use 15 deg lock, not the -5 i read everywhere else.....

but in the video it looks like the "noch" is where mine is (see right by waterpump pulley) , but i dont have the "line" like theirs does....

 

any ideas?

 

i just went though all this on a PS1000 and FD,

the stock mark is more like -20, real TDC was at the end of the window to the right of the mark,

from memory it was a trigger angle of 61 and a tooth offset of 10 and the timing was spot on..

 

you are assuming that is a leading mark

stock FD mark is 20 ATDC and is for the trailing timing,, it assumes the leading is 15 split at idle and as such is 5ATDC

knowing that each Ne tooth ( 12 pin ) is 30 degrees,, then there is tricks to make aproximations for a leading mark

 

unlike most i actually checked real TDC in the motor.. i dont assume anything...

 

Older haltech E6 system doesn't allow you to go past -5 lock so you have to trick the timing by adjusting the trigger angle to force it to -20 for the leading.

 

So does someone want to explain the proper way to zero timing on a e6k and fd? I'm more confused than b4 I started looking into this...

:-)

 

the video you posted only trying to demostrate the accuracy of their trigger wheel setup vs. stock. he had it lock to 15 degrees so that the engine will rev freely. If you set it to 0 or -5, the engine will feel sluggish. don't go by what he's doing since it is irrelvant to what you want. you should be close to 65 angle with 3 tooth offset. it's fairly standard for FD

 

steve, so with it locked at -5, am i trying to get the notch to line up with the pin on the front cover (pickup on the leading?) ? right now my angle is 67 w offset of 5

 

/\ NO

the notch on the pulley is a -20 ( ATDC mark ) it has NOTHING to do with -5
there is NO -5 mark on an FD,, that is what everyone is telling you

you either have to use the Ne teeth to count clockwise from that mark to remark a -5 leading mark ( and thus set the timing in the normal manner )

or you set the timing with split locked at 15 degrees , timing lock at -5 and use the TRAILING LEAD

if you use the posted numbers above for trigger tooth and angle,, and use the T1 lead on the timing light you will find they are very close
( because simply you cannot physically move the pickup,, and so they are all the same if you have the wiring polarity correct )

 

Thank you!,
Im not retarted as I sound in my posts. and I knew the ff trigger kit wasnt a great example but sometimes when your trying to explain via words....

all the writeups I could find were all for 2nd gens, and the lightning page is thin at best and has no info on how to properly zero timing on a fd.
I will give it a whirl tonight after I swap my broken clutch fork, it may be spot on, but im one of those people who when theres a problem I look at all parts of the system, double checking never hurs

I appricate the help!!

 

these might help,

http://www.fd3s.net/haltech_install.html

http://ricemobile.net/

 

thank you, however both dont have anything about how to properly zero timing as bumpstart has explained, and both have the trialing wires inccorect
dig out1 (wht/blk) goes toT T1, and dig out 2 (blue) goes to T2, that how the haltech e6k manual says page 117

im just double checking everythgin b/c i cant come up with a good readon for breakup at 7400 (boost/no boost) load no load.... and it makes power!!! my 10.7 time slip shows it

 

So just a followup, timing was only about 1 deg off, it turned out to be the hi-6, for some reason it would breakup from 7400-7600, but could rev past it and be clean as a whistle @ 8k so i took it out and it reved fine, so i put in the proven msd 6al and all is better, off to the dyno tonight!

thank you all!!

 

so it seems to also be issue with trigger pickup, now im loosing rpm signal and having the same hickup @ 4600, and 6700, while in the run you can drive through the 4600 but when you hit home it takes you to the 1500rpm map- seems like noise.... time to rewire....i need to upgrade.....

 

its all in the reluctor gap,, where you route the cable ,, if you have used a shielded co-ax for the CAS wiring,, how much gain you have used,, and how much filter

with these earlier haltechs its sometimes MUCH easier to route your own shielded co-ax the long way,, avoiding alt, fan and ignition wiring
and then route them through an ra10 reluctor adapter ( and set the ecu for hall effect inputs )