Hello,

Just a quick question. I have an E6X installed in my 87 TII, and have been tuning it on the highway, using a wideband meter (no dyno's within 12 hours of me in Northern Ontario). Anyway, I have my timing advance up to 42 deg by peak torque. I have been running it like this for a few weeks, and haven't heard any detonation or knocking. As a matter of fact, I ran it in a drag race one weekend, and it ran well (1st place the first day, 2nd place the 2nd day!)

The question is, if my timing is correct (which I believe it is, after checking it may times), does the timing advance seem out of whack. Do most people run their advance this high?

Thanks,

Greg

 

Did you zero out your timing? Probably not, because almost any turbo engine at peak torque ( full boost) WILL knock hard at 42 degrees at the crank.

Just make sure that your actual timing reading on the laptop and on the crank pulley are the same...

For example, if they are off by 30 degrees, you are running 12 degrees:-)

 

I have zeroed my timing, and checked it a couple of times. This is the reason why I was asking this. Looks like it may not be zeroed properly. For some reason, HalwinX won't allow you to lock the timing at -5 degrees. What I did was lock the timing at 10 degrees, added 15 to the trigger angle, lined up the timing light with the 1st marker, locked the CAS down, subtracted the 15 deg off the trigger angle, and took off the timing lock. Maybe I did it wrong. It is basically the write up on the Hitman's site for zeroing the timing on an 89-91, that doesn't have leading timing marks on the pulley. The trailing marks are used instead, but these are at -20 deg.

Guess I need to make some more checks.

Thanks,
Greg

 

Wow, that's odd.
The DOS E6K can handle negative locked timing.
The E11's all can handle locked negative timing.

Okay, locked timing = "10".
What do you mean by adding "15 to the trigger angle"?
You mean you just added another 15 to the triggle angle offset?
So if your original trigger angle offset was 60, you just changed it to 75?


Can you verify the timing gun fires at -5 on the pulley?
Or are you saying your pulley has no marks???


-Ted

 

Timing locked at "10"
Add 15 to trigger angle offset (adding to trigger angle offset retards timing, right?)
-5 deg for mark, plus 10 deg timing lock = 15 degrees
Original angle offset was 65 - changed to 80
Move CAS to line up timing light with leading mark
Tighten CAS, take off 15 from the trigger angle offset (back to 65)
Take off the timing lock


Doing the above proceedure fires the light at -5 on the pulley. My pulley has marks at -5 and -20, as it should.

What I may do is just make a 0 deg or 10 deg reference mark on my pulley. I think that I will also set the pulley at -5 deg, and check for the apex seal on the rear rotor. Is it the leading sparkplug hole that it lines up with, or the trailing?


Thanks for any info.

Greg

 

I was able to lock the timing at -5 with Halwin. Why won't it let you do it?
What version of Halwin?

 

As soon as I set the timing lock to -5 and hit "Apply", it resets the timing to 0. I am not sure what version that I have, as it is on my laptop at home. I will check then. I thought there were only two versions of HalwinX, and I beleive that I have the newest one.

Just for interest, what version do you have?

Thanks,
Greg

 

v1.2

I find v1.23 has a few noticeable bugs, including that the AIR INTAKE TEMPS are way off (low) compared to the DOS version and v1.2. Plus, it didn't want to apply any of the temperature compensation maps for fuel and ignition. Also, v1.23 won't display the UEGO A/F the way the DOS does.

Basically, most of us have been using the DOS, although it seems to only show the trailing map once in a blue moon

 

I am using V 1.2. I didn't realize there was a version 1.23.

Anyway, did a check for TDC for No. 1 rotor tonight, by pulling the rear plugs, checking apex seal, yadda, yadda, yadda. As it turns out, the timing marks on the pulley are at 5 and 20 deg ATDC!

Next thing I will do is pull off the front pulley, and mark 0 degrees, by marking 5 mm to the right (clockwise) of the yellow 5 deg ATDC mark. I will then rezero the timing, without adjusting the trigger offset angle.

I will see what that give me.

Thanks,
Greg

 

Well, I made the 0 deg mark on the pulley, warmed up the car, connected the timing light, set the timing lock to 0 deg, and checked the timing mark. Voila, lined up perfectly.

I then decided to put the timing light on the rear housing wire, just to make sure that it was also firing at the same time as the front. When I connected the timing light, no mark. WTF??? I am not sure that I want to let everyone know what I realized next, but I am sure that most people have guessed it already.

When I first checked the timing, I hooked the timing light up close to the coil. The signal seemed erratic, so I hooked it close to the spark plug. As fate would have it, I accidently hooked it up to the trailing. I then proceeded to hook it up to the trailing every time after that, when I would check the timing. Stupid I know, but just one of those things that you do without thinking. When it's set in your mind what you are out to do, you don't give any thought to the tasks which are almost involuntary, such as hooking up the light. If the involutary task has been set in your mind (but it turns out to be wrong), you just keep doing it that way. You get so focused on the problem, that you don't check the simple things. I did realize finally what I was doing wrong, and now am out to correct it.

Anyway, thanks for all the help.

By the way, what should a typical timing curve look like, for a stock 87 TII with an E6X. Start out high or low, ramp down as the boost comes on?

Thanks,
Greg

 

The Hitmans basemap goes from about 38 degree advance at high vacuum to 28 degree advance at 0 psi, and reduces linearly to 8 degrees at 15 psi.

 

Thanks Evilrotor.

Greg

 

this might help you if you haven't figured it out already.
http://www.yawpower.com/pultime.html

or if you load up the dos software, i think you can lock it at -5.