I’m having a timing issue. I just installed my p1000 on my 13b REW with LS1 Coils and I got the car started but my timing is 180 degrees out. I’ve double checked all my wiring.
Trigger
Yellow---White wire (White connector)
Blue---Green and Red wires

Home
Yellow---Black Wire (Grey connector)
Blue--- Green and Red wires

Ignition
12 volt Red/Yellow-
Ground
Signal Ground
Ing 1 Leading
Ing 2 Trail Front
Ing 3 Trail Rear

Right now I have Trailing plugs disconnected and the timing locked with the 20 degree split angle is set 65 and it’s still 180 out. I’m running one of Cludio base maps for stock coils so I had to adjust the settings for the LS1 coils.

So did I miss something?

 

I just realized Im runing version 1.04 so I guess I need to convert the map from 1.03 to 1.04. Is this done the same way you udate the e8 and 11?

 

What tooth offset are you running?

 

What is your spark mode set to? If you have both leading coils ganged on IGN1 then you need to have spark mode set as wastespark.

What changes did you make to suit the LS1 coils?

Any reason you decided against running direct fire?

When running in wastespark both leading coils fire every 180* so it's possible, especially with the engine not running, to have the timing light pickup on the out of time spark and show you a spot on the opposite side of the pulley. Basically, with wastespark 180* out is correct because the coil should be firing every 180*.

 

Ok, if you bought 4 LS1 coils, you should definitely switch the thing to Direct Fire, will allow you to run much better.

Ign1 = L1
Ign2 = L2
Ign3 = T1
Ign4 = T2

Set spark mode to Direct Fire, Constant Charge, 5mS dwell time, and you should be OK. Trigger angle should be around 65 degrees +/- a couple degrees, tooth offset is 11.

Put the Timing light on T1 and see where you are there. Lock timing value should be -5 degrees and split 15.

I think RX72c commented that map needed revising, and i would appreciate any feedback you had!

Thanks.

 

Ok the coils are set to direct fire and the tooth offset is set at 11, but I will go ahead and rewire the coils.

I thought I read some where you wire the leading coils together to run off one channel.

 

Direct fire uses separate channels for each of the leading coils so you are not wasting a spark every 180 degrees. Allows you to up the charge time as you have basically twice the time for the coils to prepare to fire.

 

Also, if you look at the manual and this is also true for the E8/E11 the way to connect Wasted Spark is as follows:

Ign1 = L1/L2
Ign3 = T1
Ign4 = T2

You mentioned you had it as ign1-2-3, that is actually wrong, since on wasted spark you probably werent even firing T1, since that output isnt activated as an ignition output under that mode, I hope you didnt fry that coil.

Check this diagram out: PS1K to Mazda RX-7 FD LS1coils Diagram

Im going to do a sticky with all these new Haltech diagrams and some base settings, if anybody notices a mistake or any wrong info, please let me know immediately.

 

That Diagram is awesome.

Well lets hope I didn't fry my buddies coils since none on my MSD coils worked I had to borrow his.

 

I have a map that works with direct fire.

But its for a 5 bar setup.

I guess i can redo it to suit a different map sensor.

Although in saying that the car we were testing it had setup issues so in actual fact that base map may have no problem. The only issue that it definitely had was injector staging. HUGE lean spot.

 

Yes, you are right there, the staging extra load bar map was zero'd out as well as the staging injection angle, that may be the cause of it, i have since reset those to a more realistic values, i will upload the new revised map tonight.

Its an import issue, those maps come into ECU Manager zero'd out for some reason. I think its cause the original map on halwin map i imported it was set to common mode and the ECU Manager map was enabled as Primary Hold.

 

Thanks guys, that was it. Timing is just a hair out. To bad you can't set the offset to 10.5 and it would be right on.

 

That's what trigger angle is for. Think of tooth offset as a gross adjustment and trigger angle as a fine adjustment.

 

Yeah, I was going to dial it in but I have way to many issue that need to be address first, like my Map sensor is not reading vacuum so its stuck reading 1.5lbs boost, so my AFR at 850rpm is 7.9