im running an e6k on my 88 TII, stock coils. The problem im getting is at idle, it will miss/studder that kindof shakes the whole car. it feels timing related, maybe knocking, im not sure. It doesnt feel right, and it never did it on my old rtek 2.1 setup. I remember when it was on the rtek, it used to have the smoothest idle.. no missing whatsoever

At idle, im running about 5 degrees advanced with 15 split, AFRs in the 12-13 range

timing settings:
trigger and home input: Int reluctor
Trigger and Home gain: 2
Trigger mode: adpaptive
Trigger angle: 47
trigger type multitooth
# teeth: 24
Tooth offset: 3
spark mode: distributor
output type: constant charge
coil charge: 3.5 ms
output edge: falling

any ideas what could be causing the studdering?

 

ever get it worked out?
i have a wierd problem of it idles fines then it will go from 1200rpm to 750 and lean out and bounce and try to die if i dont touch gas

 

For the original poster it might help to advance the leading timing a few degrees and tighten up the split. Also, lean out the fuel. Depending on the port it should idle well anywhere between 13.5 - 14.7:1.

Second poster. Your problem is fuel tuning. You can also add a couple degrees advance below your intended idle speed to help keep the engine from backing down into those lower RPM cells.

 

im as noob as they come so dont flame me for bein wrong but i just installed an e6x last night and i notice your trigger angle is 47, iirc should be 65

http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm

as per hitman.

like i said im likely wrong but...

edit : nevermind thats before you zero the timing. like i said.. noob

 

the stock ecu idles at -5 degrees, 15 split. it idled perfectly like this, so i was thinking maybe 5 degrees is too advanced. but my e6k only goes down to 0 degrees. but i will try advancing the timing/reducing split like you say and see what happens


boost..dinner, i agree, it definately sound like fuel map issue. make sure your injection values in the idle part of the map are not too far from adjacent cells

 

The trigger angle can vary. The important thing is that the timing has been zeroed. Just because you have entered the same value as everyone else doesn't mean it's correct.

Having said that 47* is suspicious. Is the timing correctly zeroed?

 

it is zeroed, i just didnt line up the CAS very well. trigger angle and tooth offset do the same thing, right?

 

Yes. Tooth offset is a gross adjustment. Each tooth equals 30*. Trigger angle is a fine adjustment. Really you can drop the CAS in anyway you want and through a combination of tooth offset and trigger angle get the timing to zero properly.