A friend is looking to purchase one and cant seem to find a U.S. dealer worth a ****. Anyone have good things to say about were they got theres? Would be nice to find one with decent customer service rating. Thanks for your help fellas.

mike

 

Let me know what you need. I have been selling, installing and tuning haltechs for over 5 years and i love em to death. And if you need any reference to see who i am, check out the Haltech Forum, im THR RX7 in there.

Contact me for any info or pricing.

 

Kickyride.com. So far Mike has been excellent to me.

But I'd question your interest in a Haltech right now. They are having some serious problems with the E6X's. Take a good look at the Wolf group buy and / or a microtech.

 

To answer your concern Digital, the main issue with the current E6X was related to a bad choice of electronics hardware supplier, they have since chenged to a new supplier and the bugs have been taken care of. The issues lie mainly with early serial numbered Xs.

I understand the new found popularity of the Microtechs and other brands of systems, since haltech pulled out of the US things have taken a nose dive, also, haltech was sold to another company recently and they are taking many steps to regain their popularity. Ive even been informed that they are coming back to the US hopefull soon. I have seen what the microtechs can do, the auto tune function is really nice, haltech should look into that, but the fact is that the microtechs do have less outputs and inputs than a haltech E6K or X and their price is just about the same.

I for one love the ease of use of the hatlechs and their versatility with different engine configurations and ignition options.

 

Claudio, its not a concern, its a real issue. I own an E6X. Its not an early serial number. If you are interested you can view the thread "Yet another e6x ignition problem" in the Haltech forum. Haltech has yet to do a real-world attempt at recreating the problem (they did a "bench test" which is largely useless) and while they are making steps towards attempting to resolve the problem there are MANY instances of this issue occuring on these units and to date no serious effort put forth by the company beyond "buy our $130 external reluctor adapter" which is just wrong.

IF Haltech gets on the ball here, and we are all able to determine why the E6X won't run reliably with a FAR BETTER THAN STOCK ignition signal, then I'm keeping mine and might recommend them. Otherwise I'm switching EMSs, and soon.

Bond: search this forum, nopistons.com, the haltech support forum, and talk to RETed, hIGGI, and the hitman (hitman.hm) before you buy a Haltech. Ask them specifically about these issues (which I am personally experiencing) and you're eyes will be opened.

My dealer (kickyride) and I should be sticking my car on an oscilloscope this weekend to see if we can determine what's up with it, and try to conclusively pin down whether its an ECU issue or if its an application issue for our cars. Many other people are having the problem I am.

One of the benefits of having a dealer in town is you can do things like this.

 

I completely understand your point, im just sorry i dont have that big of a market here, due largely impart to a bad economy, so i can play around with the different systems and help with the trouble shooting. My guess is as good as any why these issures are pressent, but unless we get a detailed tour of their facilities i guess we're stuck with slapping oscilloscopes and multimeters on our cars and trying to disect the problem ourselfs. Ive neer had issues with the E6K, but i guess that with every new systems bugs will come up.

But, im whilling to work with anybody on this to try and get as much feedback relayed to haltech so they know what's going on. Now that you mention it, id like to hear what the HITman has to say about all this. Wonder if he's switching brands? :roll:

Later,

 

Yes, the E6K seems to be solid. But its not available anymore except used. :-/

 

Sent you a PM.

 

Answered...

 

Haltech is back in the U.S. and they are setting up shop in Southern California. They are really stepping up their efforts in the U.S. market. They even sponsored my car for their new E11 V2 to get more exposure to different U.S. markets. Chris at Mel's auto repair in San Marcos has a direct contact with their U.S. rep. PM me if you want Chris's contact information.

 

Haltech is back in the USA, Trevor is the contact there, his number is 760 291 1481.
i have seen quite a few CAS style rotary installations, all with the onboard reluctor adaptor working well... could something else on these 10-20 Yr old cars be having problems with electrical noise? How many of you have Oscilliscopes to check for this ? Instead of just blame the tools ?
Actually i lie, i saw one that had very bad noise problems.. called haltech after scoping the car, they suggested a RA8, i used it, worked great. However, later on i found out the reason for all the noise was a dodgy thermofan relay, that was switching on and off very quickly, the ground for it was about a foot away from the cas... changed the relay.. turned off all the gains on the RA8. As much as i hate to admit it.. it was my problem. because i had a 15 year old car....

 

I think thas has to be the news of the year! I sure hope things pick up for haltech again now that they are back in the States. Hehe, i just wish i was there...

Later,

 

haltech has found the problem with the CAS to be leakeage from the alternator wiring in such a close proximity to the CAS, obviously thier wiring is not as well shielded as it should be, they admit the OEM wiring is better protected.. thier are many SIMPLE solutions to this problem, most of which cost no more then a few bucks and a 1/2hr worth of work... I've had great dealings with Haltech in Aus., here in Ontario Canada thier is no dealer worth the time to call them. SO I'm dealing directly with Haltech, I attempted to contact Microtech, EMS, LINK and SDS as well as Haltech before i bought anything, given that none of these companies has support or a trained facility in Ont. I was relying on thier customer service for my support. SDS did get back to me as I expected, but they didn't really have the scale of options I needed , other then that HALTECh was the only company to even return my email .. after attempts to recontact EMS, Link and Microtech went unanswered I decided to go with my first chioce of Haltech They got back to within the day and have always replied very quickly to my concerns and my problems.

A dealer is only as good as the support they get from the Home office. I plan to start carrying Haltech here in ontario at something in the near future based on product and customer support they offer.

 

Hey DoriDori,

If you need any help you can contact me anytime, and im usually on the Haltech Forum answering questions there all the time. Im based out of the Dominican Republic, but my door is always opened for any Haltech customer that needs assistance, im also available to travel to your location for both instalation, tuning and training if you need it.

PM or e-mail me if you need any help.

Later,

 

thanks claudio, I'm sure I've run into you on the Haltech ezboard, what I really need is a starting point map for a ported RE w/ T70, injectors sizes 720/1600.. Thier is one dyno n this town and I don't think they even have a WB o2 setup.. and we have yet to build our mobile wheel dyno..

 

This never used to be a problem with the older E6K's.
I bet it's the built-in RA8 that's the root of the problem, since the CAS - leads from the two mag sensors needs to be grounded, instead of running back to the Haltech ECU itself.


-Ted

 

Reted, all your noise problems could be related to the issue above. Why are grounding the reluctors directly to the chassis near the CAS? Why dont you use the ground wires that are specified in the loom?
Even though they go back to the ground pin (26), which is connected to the chassis, grounding the reluctor signals through the same point as the ECU will eliminate any potential difference, helping vastly with noise.

 

I'm kinda at a loss here...I have had the exact same symptoms as everyone else. E6K ECU, serial number 0433. it says E6K-8 on the cover. Im thinking its pretty old. anyway, it used to be on an FD before I got it. All the wiring is perfect. When cranking, I was getting no rpms or spark. I swapped it out with another E6K, a newer one, serial 1212. cranked right up like a champ...so, ive been reading about the reluctor on the E6K not liking some CAS's, I emailed Haltech, heres what I got.
RE: Troubleguessing

Hello Neil,
There are no known problems with E6K and the mazda crank pickup - i know what the forums are saying and none of them have any mention of problems with E6K their gripe is with the E6X.
I would suggest adjusting the trigger and home gain settings. Also check to see if the E6K has motronic chips on board or standard chips (if you open the cover there are 2 PIC chips inserted into onboard holders behind the main connector plug - these chips will be labelled with a hand written M if they are motronic - check if you and your friend have the same chipset).

You can of course send the unit back to be checked, this will cost AUD$75.00 per hour plus parts and freight.

Only $75 an hour? where do I send it?! I guess my question is this. Is there anything I can do? I messed with the gains from 0 to 7. no change. the cas shielding is grounded...I dont know what to do. Do I have to send the ECU back to Australia? thanks!
neil

 

Did you look inside the Unit to see if your pic chips where Motronic? if not, and your problem is another and the Haltech needs to go to Oz, email them back and they can send you the address and shipping info. I just sent an E6K to be checked because it wasnt reading RPMs, everything else worked fine, from what i can tell about this unit i sent, it was connected the wrong way and was left seing 12v constantly through the trigger input, so it might be "fried". Meaning they'll probably change it and ship it back. should cost me around US$100.00 plus shipping.

They only use FedEx now so ship it that way. Its probably less than 40-50 bucks for each way. They will bill you for the reparis and shipment back to you.

Hope that helps.

 

Why don't you ask Haltech AUS those questions?
Cause they are the ones recommending to do this...


-Ted

 

Claudio, thanks for the info....i opened it up, and theres two chips on "holders" behind the main plug. there is no "hand written" M, just a little printed M like the motorola insignia. does that mean they are motronic? thanks for all the help!

Neil

 

its gonna be like 80 ^&%#$& dollars each way to Australia. plus the "labor" to fix it. i mean, it looks like its gonna be like a $300 fix...I really dont want to send it back...it works fine on Fd's....anyone have an FD with an E6K they will trade me?

 

Well, if you think the unit is fine and you say it works on an FD just fine, did you test your CAS to see if there is something wrong with it? I went on the fedex website and quoted a 10x6x4 in. box with a declaired value of 600 dollars, and it came back with a 63 dollar rate from Az to Oz (if that is where you live), the 10x6x4 box is where i sent the K in, with proper padding it had a weight of 2lbs.

Anyway, ill let you know when i get the one i sent back to see how much it was.

Later,

 

Claudio,

Yea, I didnt test the CAS, but I borrowed another E6K from another FC and it cranked right up. I don't know what is wrong with it. Im reading on here that reluctors on the board are bad, or need to be removed or whatever. Haltech is tellin me that E6K's work just fine with mazda CAS's and there are no known problems with them. So I don't know. I was getting the 80 dollar range from fedex's website....I mean, it looks like this could cost about the same as just buying another used ECU....aarrgghhh

 

Well your problem sounds just like mine, i have 2 ECUs here and tried them both with the exact same identical map, the good one started right up, the other one didnt and didnt show RPMs either. I swapped emails with haltech and determined that its a bad trigger circuit, and from asking around about that haltech it seems it was left seeing 12V constantly through it, which is also one of the points that Haltech made.

So, off it went, today they told me that they got it and when they looked at it would get back to me, as soon as i have an answer ill post it here. Its the first time ive sent a unit to them too, so i was a little unsettled by the cost issue. But since the unit read all the sensors, and it was online with the software, and the fuel pump relay also kicked in, im assuming that its coming back brand new afterwards. The harness for this is a Terminated one so its in great shape, which means it could also be sold for a good price.