Hey guys,

So I've made some great progress. I've got the car idling pretty smoothly, and revving up smoothly through about 4-5k rpm.

The real issue is this: when I went to turn the car off tonight, it kept running, even after I turned off the ignition and removed the key. The dash gauges all turned off, but the engine kept running. Any ideas?

Also, the reading from the Innovative LC-1 wideband is pretty erratic. How smooth is the gauge supposed to be?

On an unrelated note, when I try and drive it, it does NOT want to move. As soon as I start letting that clutch out, it won't budge. I am suspicious of clutch problems though, so that might be the cause. The clutch is chattering really loudly when I'm sitting still; I think it could be a bad throw-out bearing.

Finally, is there anything built into the Haltech that can compensate for electrical load? The car definitely runs rougher once I turn on all my accessories.

Thanks!

 

What aux output functions are you using with the Haltech? Fans, boost controller, etc? You need to make sure the power feed to those accessories is switch 12V. If they are direct wired to the battery the 12V can leak back through the relay and keep the ECU powered in a key off situation.

http://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic....6&p=12684#wrap

The LC-1s I have worked with jump around a lot. Even with a great running tune in a steady state situation they'll fluctuate a 1/2 point or more. Other experiences may be different.

The Injector Dead Time map is what you need to work with to stabilize the electrical load changes. It needs to be enabled in Setup>Advanced>Fuel Correction Tables. You can find injector lag times posted in several places on the net. www.injector-rehab.com is one source. If you want to get precise Paul Yaw does dynamic testing to provide accurate dead time data for your own injectors.

 

The only output I have active is the CTS switch, which powers my E-Fans. I wired them as you instructed, and they work flawlessly:

Pin 30 - Fused power from battery
Pin 87 - Power output to Fan
Pin 86 - DPO from ECU
Pin 85 - Switched 12V+
Negative side of fan motor directly to ground.

Hmm... Well, it's sometimes jumping 5 AFR, and is rarely stable. Is the LC-1 supposed to be 0v=10 and 5v=20 AFR? Also, it is reading 20AFR when the car is OFF.

I have that map enabled from the base map I'm using, I suppose I need to mess with it.

Thanks for your help.

 

Still can't figure out why the car keeps running after its turned off.

I just noticed last night that the "Charge Battery" light comes on in the idiot light cluster, and it goes away once I put the key back in and "turn the car back on" (even though its still running).

Ill see if I can post a wiring diagram of how I wired everything later tonight.

 

guessin beacuase of charge light you need to read my "car wont stop running" thread in this very forum.. sounds like your alternator is wired improperly, hook it up backward an your car wont shut off

 

Where are you getting the switched 12V for pin 85 of the relay? This could be exactly what I was referring to. Next time the car keeps running pull this pin and see what happens.

 

Alright, I'll try that.

Right now its wired into the (now unused) harness with a big round connector coming out of the firewall where the ABS used to be. I'll try and snap a picture. I'm not even exactly sure what that wire is connected to, but I tested it and it was a switched +12v so I tapped into it. I'll try and get a picture of it soon.

ALSO: Is it strange that my tooth offset is 27 (in order for the timing marks to line up)? Is this a cause for concern?

 

Your tooth offset should be 11 with the CAS as the FSM calls for. There are only 24 teeth on the wheel so your setting makes no sense.

 

Haha, oops. I meant my TRIGGER ANGLE is at 27°. Stupid mistake, sorry.

Okay, something is definitely not quite right with the car. I drove it around town today, and it just doesn't feel right. I've driven the car for years, so I know how it should feel, and I can tell you that something is just generally off. I've messed with the timing and fuel maps, and they help a little bit, but again, something is just not quite right.

Here are schematics of how I wired everything. Maybe you'll spot something I didn't do correctly, or a wire I didn't connect that is necessary. Sorry, they're pretty big:

Page 1

Page 2

Also, this is how my spark plugs are firing:

L1 = Synched with yellow mark
L2 = Synched with yellow mark
T1 = Synched with red mark
T2 = 180° of red mark

Sound right?

Here is a link to the base map I am using: LINK. It's one that Claudio uploaded.

And if for some reason you need to know my mods: LINK

Thanks guys.

 

The trigger angle will need to be greater than 27*. Stab the CAS according to the FSM. When you do this remove the cover off the top of the CAS and note the tooth alignment with the dimple on the gear properly aligned with the case at the bottom. Since you noted the gear alignment you will be able to watch as you slide the CAS in and seat it to ensure it doesn't jump out of alignment. I put a paint mark on the tooth that sits next to the VR sensor to eliminate any guess work.

With the CAS aligned per the FSM you should have a tooth offset of 11 and a trigger angle of 60-70*.

With a trigger angle of only 27*, if everything is properly zeroed, you're probably only seeing a max advance of around 17-25* regardless of what you have programmed. This will make the engine flat at part load.

Once you have the CAS correctly stabbed go through the zero process again. You say you have the coils lined up with the marks on the pulley but what are your lock settings? For a stock pulley set the lock at -5 and the leading should line up with the red mark. You can do a split of 0 and have the trailing line up on that same mark as well. Once you go through that and you have the timing zeroed unlock the timing. You should end up with a trigger angle as described above and the car should be a little peppier.

 

I'll try it again, but I'm about pretty sure I stabbed it correctly as per the FSM. I am suspicious of the way I set it, so it's definitely worth re-doing.

Also, I am using the timing lock procedure and settings you have posted in the past in other threads.

Thanks a lot for your help. I'll do this as soon as I get home and let you know what I find out.

 

Well, I stabbed the CAS according to the FSM exactly. I even tried installing it incorrectly (off by 1 tooth in either direction) and it was still off by at least 15°. This is really frustrating. I am 99.9% sure I am zeroing the timing correctly, yet I still can't get the yellow mark to line up with L1 without going well outside the 60-70° trigger angle range. I have followed both Chris' and Hitman's zeroing-the-timing guide, with this result.

Also, I did a compression check today and found some pretty discouraging news. It looks as if I have a bad oil seal in my front rotor. Been less than 10,000 since it was rebuilt. This most likely explains the weak low-end power.

Thanks for the help thus far, especially Chris. If you have any ideas in regard to the CAS, please let me know. I know there is no problem with the timing light; I tried two different ones with the same result.

 

What coils are you running?

Are you running wasted spark or Direct fire?

For l1 and l2 to fire in the same spot you have something wrong with your ignition.

 

I have a totally stock ignition system other than "aftermarket" (stock replacement) NGK 8mm plug wires.

The spark mode I'm on is "Distributor".

 

No thoughts or responses to that last post?

 

Distributor is the correct mode for stock coils.