U see that's wat I was thinking that maybe the map was the cause but then again woudnt it start with starting fluid atleast.anyone no were I can get a good map? The one im using is for a 13bt with bigger injectors and mine is a 13b-re with stock injectors but that's all I could find.the links on the forum don't work.fc3spro doesn't work either.hitmans page doesn't either. It use to start right up on the stock stuff.

 

What's your injector setup?

 

4 stock Re injectors 550 I believe correct me if im wrong.There on Staging but I've tried batch fire as well with no luck.

 

It won't start with starting fluid because it's either a) way out of time or b) your not getting adequate spark (foulded plugs have been suggested). If you have properly timed spark, fuel that's somewhat close, and compression it will start. You're missing one or more of the ingredients. Something else to look at is battery voltage while cranking. If it's dropping down to 10 volts or less you're going to have starting issues. Just becuase you have a new battery doesn't mean you have adequate voltage while cranking. You also need to make sure you're getting a good trigger signal while cranking. It's possible for the trigger to either drop out all together or become spotty while cranking.

Where are you located?

 

^ Yep! Also great grounds from battery to body and engine are a must for getting really good cranking rpms and less voltage drop. OP do you have a lap top hooked up while cranking?

 

U no now that u mention the trigger signal when my laptop is hooked up when I crank it the rpm signal goes up to like 1200 real quick like so fast u can barely make out the numbers then back down to 280 or so then stops at 180 and will stay there till I stop cranking...is that bad?I do have adequate voltage as well.I got fuel spark and compression im just pretty sure its a timing issue.Im located in Arizona

 

Yes I do...

 

what are your gains set at? 180 is low for craking speed

 

Trigger Input: Int. Reluctor
Trigger Gain: 3
Trigger Mode: Adaptive
Trigger Angle -°BTDC: 67
Trigger Type : Multitooth
Spark Mode: Distributor
Engine Type: Rotary
Output Type: Constant Charge
Coil Charge Time <ms>: 3.5
Output Edge: Falling
Home Input: Int.Reluctor
Home Gain: 3
Number of Teeth: 24
Tooth Offset:11

 

Your spark mode should be direct fire with the fd cas, distributor would be if you have a 2nd gen

 

Wait a second. 2nd or 3rd gen trigger setup? And what coils?

B

 

Correct me if im wrong but I thought Fds get there trigger signal from a trigger wheel on the stock front main pulley not a CAS. I have 13B-RE not a 13B-REW.So that's why im using distributor type

 

Im using a 2nd gen trigger setup with stock Fc coils.
13B-RE CAS*
E6k*
Stock Fc coils* and yes I do have it set to ignition toggle on the In/Out options.
Wat do u think about the fluctuating rpm readings that I mentioned earlier while cranking?

 

Oops, I sew the re and just assumed fd style, long story short you have 2nd get distributor style pickup, not the fd cas then correct?

 

Yes sir...and by the way I really appreciate u trying to help thanks

 

Just a quick update cause I hate when people dont update or post wat happened.I put some new spark plugs in and bam started after a few cranks.All that trouble shooting for it to be something so simple lol anyways thanks to everyone for the help I appreciate it.

 

Wet fouled rotary plugs are a bitch. As I said before, now you see why I keep another set of BMW plugs readily available. Don't throw those wet foulded rotary plugs away. You can actually bring them back to life. Get your engine good and hot with your new plugs. You can then re-install the wet fouled plugs and the engine will fire up. Once these plugs heat up in the hot engine, it will burn the residue that keeps them from working proplerly. Shut your engine off and if it starts right up, consider them good to go.