Ok so I started wiring my e6k in two days ago into my 88s4 Fc with a stock 13b-re with S4 Fc turbo using stock Fc coils.I wired up the cas according to the hitman site and I get nothing when I go to start it.well I get spark and all but it doesn't even try to start it just cranks and cranks sparks but everyonce and a while it'll make a little pop noise out the exhaust. Its firing the injectors cause I can see them fire when the top manifold is off.it'll only make the poping noise if I try and use starting fluid tho.so I got spark and fuel and compression ( I checked ) .my only guess is that the cas is wired wrong. SO IS THERE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HOW TO WIRE A FC CAS AND A 13B-RE CAS to a e6k? Plz help me I've done my research but found nothing.im using a basemap for a Fc t2 engine with 3bar map sensor ...

 

And yes my coils are wired correctly, with the ignition setup on the e6k using the ign.toggle.

 

Have you zeroed the timing?

 

I set the crank pulley at the yellow marker and stabbed the cas with both trigger points approximately at the cas cap screw holes.Set the e6k to timing lock on -5 degrees and so on according to a write up from bdc. Still nothing.

 

http://www.bdcmotorsports.com/Haltec...6KCASSetup.Txt

 

You locked the timing at -5. Did you then shoot the pulley with a timing light to determine if the timing was synched? If so, did you then unlock the timing?

 

First things first thanks for the replies its greatly appreciated that ur trying to help.I followed the instructions on the link I posted.as for the timing light I was not aware that u could use the timing light with the car off I didnt use it no. I tried it with the timing locked and unlocked and nothing works .its pretty frustrating.

 

Not a problem. It sounds like it's not timed right.

Yes, you need to verify that the timing is right before you try to start the engine. Just stabbing the CAS isn't good enough. Lock the timing and have someone crank the engine while you shoot the pulley with the pickup attached to L1. You need to get the -5 mark lined up with the timing indicator on the front cover. Once you have it lined up, unlock the timing in the software and attempt to start the engine.

This has been covered to death. Do a search under my screen name for zero timing. There's a comprehensive write up on here.

 

As soon as the sun goes down im a jump right on this I hope it w.orks thanks ill post. Wat happens

 

Ok so an update ...I tried locking the timing at -5 on the e6k with a timing light and tooth offset 11 with a trigger angle of 60.I got it lined up and unlocked the timing but still nothing not even with starting fluid. So I said **** it and did some more research and found that some people use tooth offset 3 so I said why not and changed it and bam it starts trying to turn on and at one point it did for like 2 seconds then died out cause the injectors were disabled and was running on the starting fluid that I had sprayed earlier.I turned the injectors back on but again it only sputtered I checked the timing again with the time light since I had changed the tooth offset at it was no were near -5 degrees I almost wanna say it was 180off but it still tried starting. So I zerod the timing with the light with the tooth offset at 3 this time and now it doesn't even try anymore every once and while it'll pop but that's it.just doesn't make sense. I even tried going back to tooth offset 11 and still nothing. Maybe im doing something wrong.I line the pulley up with yellow marker with the front cover indicator and the cas with the little circle/notch lined up with the indicator on the cas.any ideas anyone? Also im using a s4 front main pulley if that matters I don't see why the markings would be diffrent tho...

 

Changing the Tooth Offset variable is the same as rotating the CAS gear and re-inserting it into the front cover assuming the engine is at an invariable degrees like, say, TDC. If you changed Tooth Offset from 11 to 3 and suddenly it seemed to have worked, that meant the CAS was inserted according to HITman's method assuming that wasn't an accident.

To me this sounds like you need to start over with the CAS insertion:

1) Align engine to 5*ATDC (yellow mark on factory crank pulley) (assuming this is a matched front hub/pulley pair)
2) Align gear on CAS to factory alignment and insert (use thumbs on the top two Home pointers to keep the CAS's shaft from slopping around as you insert it into the front cover)
3) Rotate CAS to the middle of the adjustment window
4) Set Tooth Offset to 11 and Trigger Angle to 65 to start

You MUST used a matched front hub and crank pulley. Even though the asymmetric bolt pattern makes it appear to be an interchangeable thing, you cannot flip flop crank pulleys on the same hub. The timing marks relative to that bolt pattern on the front hub float around from crank pulley to crank pulley on the Cosmo and FC engines.

Hope this helps.

B

 

Thanks for the info...Yeah im gonna start with stabbing the cas again the way u mentioned it and go with ur settings and yeah i was using the hitman method.Unfortunately i do not have the original pulleys im using one from a fc maybe that is the problem.Its just so frustrating being so close yet so far ya know.Not to mention i dont have a garage and its 110 degress right now.I shall try again tho and post wat happens.Thanks for the help.

 

Totally just found my stock underdrive pulley! Only problem being it was painted black along time ago and can't see wich of the two marks is red or yellow BUT a start in the right direction...

 

DAM THIS THING! I locked and timed the thing at tooth offset 11 and still nothing! So just to see wat happens I turn the offset to 3 and it starts sputtering and backfiring and almost turning on...WAT AM I DOING WRONG?

 

Have you checked your compression? Have you confirmed spark for each plug? Do you smell fuel coming out of the plug holes when you turn the engine over? Using starter fluid will NEVER property help you diagnose a problem as you can never tell if you injectors are working. As much as you have been trying to set your timing, there's a chance your engine may now be flooded. Even if you just happen to get it timed perfect, it's not gonna fire with wet plugs. I always keep an extra set of cheap BMW M5 plugs for this reason. Wet fouled plugs hardly will ever fire up a rotary. I usually install the BMW plugs fire the engine up and get it to operating temp, then re-install the old plugs on the warm engine so I burn off the residue. The heat cleans the old plugs get working.

 

Compression 3 even pulses around 90psi on regular tester with release valve held in.Spark on all four plugs.I've disabled injectors and taken plugs out and cranked to make sure its not flooded its not.haven't tried diffrent plugs tho.just doesn't make sense to.me I must be doing something wrong

 

I've had fouled plugs show a spark but sometime not spark well enough to fire up the engine. Install some newer plugs and set everthing back so to tooth offset 11. One last thing, do you have a strong battery?

 

Ill get some...two day old bluetop optima...

 

One more thing ...when I go to turn the ignition on to prime the pump and get ready to crank the engine seems to do a little pop noise outta the exhaust as if it we're igniting left over fuel ...

 

Have you tried spinning the CAS gear with the ignition on and verifying the RPMs are registering, you hear the injectors clicking, and you're getting spark?

Check your injector wiring! I had a similar situation where my car would crank and crank and crank and pop/backfire and nothing. When I double checked the injector wiring, I had plugged both primary injectors onto the front rotor primary and secondary. :X Needless to say, I swapped them in the correct position and it fired right up!

 

Ill recheck my injector wiring right now and see wats up with that but that's why I used starting fluid incase my injectors were wrong it would still atleast start for a lil...I did take the cas out and and check everything u said ...everything clicks

 

hm...

maybe you are running rich? if you stab the cas correctly, and the timing settings are indeed correct, and the cas is once again checked if stabbed correctly, then could it be a fuel issue?

 

I disabled the injectors when timing so it didn't flood...and that's why I used starting fluid ...

 

Can someone plz answer me this tho..WHY is it that after I try and start the engine and its pops and sputters and all that I turn the key off to just take a break and let the starter rest a bit. WHEN I turn the ignition back on and the coils give that one initial spark the engine makes a poping noise as if igniting left over fuel and the engine makes a compressing noise and turns over a bit making a backfire noise ...WHY?

 

Most every system will discharge the coils when you first hit the key. That's nothing out of the ordinary. It's igniting left over fuel in the chamber. It sounds like to me that you have a combination of the engine being out of time (ECU not properly synched to crank position) and the fuel map being wrong.