OK well maybe its two.

On the main harness there are 6 wires
REd battery +
gray switchd source
green aux input
org fuel pump +12VDC
org fuel pump positive
blk ground

I only installed 1 wire on the fuel pump going to the black/white wire
what do I do with the other orange wire???? is it not needed

Can I install the gray switched to the fuse box for the radio ( i believe a radio is a switched source)

and where should I ground the haltech...just the one black little wire, thats it???


Last one......on my coolant sensor does it matter if I reverse the 2 wires, it should still read the same right??

thanks and hopefully you can help me in starting my car for the first time~!!!!!

 

anyone???

 

The other orange wire goes to the battery. Doesn't matter which one. One end goes to battery + into the relay and the other end goes to the fuel pump power feed.

The gray wire needs a switched source. One that has power with the ignition key in on and start. Use a test light to probe the wires and find one that is powered when you have the key in the on and start positions. That the wire is powered in the start position is very important. Don't find a wire that's powered in on only, only to have the power to the ECU drop when you're cranking the engine.

Ground the ECU at any good ground point. Find a cage nut that's welded to the body and use that.

 

oh ok, so the red wire and the orange wire both get connected to the battery positive correct? so a total of 2 wires on the positive

I can easily find a switched source

also the haltch I bought was used and was on a S4 T2 with 550/1600,. should I really disconnect the injectors and coils to start it up?

 

bump

 

Is the map in that ECU identical to your current setup? there's no reason to disconect the coils, and if anything you could just leave the secondary injectors disconnected, but why would you.

If your setup IS different, then by all means get someone to tune it for you.

 

oh it will be tuned, I have a good friend that tunes for me. I just wanted to start the car up since I have never heard it run in 1 year. I will just wait for the laptop so I can zero in the timing and run Hitmans base map with 550/550 setup and a 3bar map sensor.

 

Is that what you have exactly?

A bone stock motor with stock injectors and 3 bar map sensor, using stock coils and igniters? Is it an S4 or S5 motor?

I have a stock map for an S5 motor in THIS POST.

 

I have a stock S4 motor with 550/550 setup. 3" turbo back exhaust ported wastegate and TB mod.

Using haltech I am assuming the supplied map sensor is a 3-bar.
yes I have stock coils and ignitors....except for this..

I didnt have a leading coil laying around so I took an extra trailing, wired it up into parallel and then wired it as a leading so it will fire at the same time.

other than that, stock coils and ignitors

 

But the trailing coil has that built in "toggle" option, did you use a leading igniter, or that very same trailing one? or how did you work around the toggle?

 

you bypass the toggle by creating a 2 wire input. +ve spliced into +ve and negative spliced into negative.

now they see the same signal as opposed to firing opposite of one another, the ignitor now how just one input. So now it is no longer toggled but a light switch. Hence it simulated the leading coil design.

Now I wont be racing with this setup just becuase I want to have it right, but I will use this for the startup period.

BTW do you think that the hitman fuel setup is correct, i thought the GM MAP sensor was a 3-bar.