Problem solved.
Wired up the new sensor, turned the motor over and had rpm.
Glad I didn't mount the magnets wrong. Would have been kind of a pain.
Thanks again Chris for the help and speedy shipment.

Buy from Ludwigmotorsports!

 

No problem. Word of warning to anyone using the S3/4 sensors. Wire them up incorrectly and you will fry them. I've done it myself.

 

Running good still?

I'd like to do this to my FC with a e6k....what do I need?

 

An aluminum disk or pulley, two magnets, and an S3 sensor. PM me if you want more info.

 

Thanks for all the help Chris,

Do you think you could post the 1-2-3-4 (S3)wire postion in relation to the the hitmans site CAS colors/haltech colors?

1 would be battery-hook to a switched power
2 ?
3 ?
4 ground....(red stock CAS)/yellow or white haltech

 

There's really nothing to relate to the CAS since you're not using it anymore. The S3 sensor would connect like this though:

For the newer 4 pin plugs -

1 - 12V+ switched
2 - Home, green wire home loom on Platinum, green wire of trigger loom on E6K/X
3 - Trigger, yellow wire of trigger loom on Platinum, yellow wire of trigger loom on E6K/X
4 - ground

Older 6 pin plug

A - ground
B - trigger
C - NA
D - NA
E - home
F - 12V+ switched

 

Fantasic...that is what I needed.

Do you know why they want the sensor 75 deg BTDC?

 

The sensor needs to align with the south magnet (which is the #1 rotor trigger) at somewhere between 55 and 75* BTDC #1. You need the magnet to pass the rotor at least 10* before your maximum advance figure. So if you want to run 40* max advance at any one point in your map you would need the magnet to pass the sensor no less than 50* BTDC. Make sense? 75* is just an easy catch all for a generic installation.

 

Makes sense to me.

Before I blow a sensor...

To confirm: I use only the yellow and green wires to the haltech e6k harness and hooked the positive and ground of the sensor to another source(+cig lighter, -ground on car).

The blue and red wire are unused on the haltech harness.


I used a compus to locate the north side of the magnet since it is attracted to it....

 

You can use the red and blue wires of the e6k trigger harness as your power and ground for the sensor. That's what they're there for.

 

Ohhhh, that will make the wiring so much cleaner.

I do not see a trigger pull-up selection...is it on a different page?



I did get it running last night, my trigger angle turned out to be 49 degrees from where I mounted it. I think the most I run is 33-38 degrees so hope that is good enough.

My trailing coils were firing backwards so I reversed the spark plug wires as a temp cure....I must have my triggers reversed. Going to check my wires, magnets and edge settings again before a drive + boost. I remember blowing an engine from a reversed trailing wire once b4 when I was distracted durring a plug change.

Timing looks stready 99% of the time but, it fires one off the mark once and a while. It may be my timing light.


I also want to check the trim level between magnets as they could be a degree or two off with my mounting bracket even though they flash in the same spot.

 

Don't believe there is a trigger pull-up selection with the K. If you have it working then the pull-up is correct.

49 should be OK. All the ECU will do if it doesn't have the time to make a calculation because the trigger angle is too close to the advance is end up retarding the timing.

Sounds like you have the magnets in backwards. The leading will be fine since they're firing in wastespark but, as you have seen, the trail coils will be backwards.

Though the Hall trigger is much less sensitive to EMI you still need to make sure you don't have the trigger loom laying on a plug lead or near the alternator. Same rules for avoiding interference still apply.

 

Yeah that is what I thought to.
I figured a compus points to the north magnet so I think it is right. The #2 pin of the sensor is wired to the green home of the haltech.

Glad I checked it with a timing light. Just have to remember the trailings are reversed for future repairs. I could just reverse the rising and falling part of the triggers right?

I also found in the e6k haltech manual that black and blue are inputs A and B....I don't think they can be used for ground and positive but, I have not checked them yet as my wires still go to the cig. lighter.

Driving:

Idles the same, still misses a bit. I think my piggybacked primary 850 injectors have something to do with that. Up top it feels very smooth and better than b4.

Slowly getting into it I worked my way up to 17.7lbs of boost with very positive results.

I look forward to doing a few more longer pulls.

If all goes well the New BB Turbo sitting here goes on it.

 

You cannot switch the trigger edge. That has nothing to do with your issue. Setup the trigger edges like the directions say. Trigger edge = rising, home edge = falling.

You're correct on the power for the sensor. I keep forgetting you're working with a K. You can get power from the injector feed (gray/red) and ground from the sensor ground.