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Haltech New User Haltech Setup Questions

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Old 06-13-10 | 01:01 AM
  #51  
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Will that work alright even with the car not idling? Have to blip the throttle to keep it running and it dies below 2500rpm. I'm going to put an exhaust on it so the o2 sensor reads properly and try to get it to idle. I'll take care of that soon, too.
Old 06-13-10 | 10:38 AM
  #52  
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BDC
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Sure. Have somebody sit in the car and keep the throttle up while you do it.

B
Old 06-20-10 | 07:41 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by BDC
The first thing you need to do before fiddling with anything on the map is to get the base timing zero'd out properly. That's done by getting the engine warmed up, setting the Lock Timing to -5 (yes, -5 and not 5), putting your timing gun on either leading plug wire (assuming it's a dual post FC leading coil and not a direct fire setup), then hit the crank pulley with the gun and adjust either the CAS itself or the Trigger Angle (in Ignition Setup) until the yellow mark lines up with the timing mark on the front cover.

B

Okay, I missed this the first time through...it IS a direct fire setup, I'm running LS1 coils.

FIRST, Setting timing....what am I doing wrong?

With the engine idling around 2100 RPM, I tried zeroing the timing. I couldn't find the timing mark, and then I realized the computer was giving it 20 some degrees of advance. I locked the timing at -5 and the engine wouldn't run unless I blipped the throttle. When I blip the throttle, the mark is right on the nuts and then "escapes" to the left as the RPMs drop and the engine starts to stall, but whenever I blip it, it's close.

Current settings are 100/11. This seems a little high compared to some of the other suggested settings. Pretty sure the CAS is in on the correct tooth.

Should the engine run with -5* timing, or does that sound about right?

I figure it's gotta be close because we had it set up probably within 5* of where it needed to be when we were just cranking it.


SECOND, why doesn't my WBo2 sensor work?

It's an AEM Uego.

I had this working on my other RX-7, pretty sure the sensor's got some miles on it but should still work. I thought it was reading pegged lean because the sensor is about a foot away from the open end of a 4" downpipe, but I took the car around the block and it still didn't pick up anything. I figured it should register something, right?

When I turn the car on, the gauge flashes "U04", then "P00", and then starts at 14.7 and goes up to "---". If the sensor was unplugged, it would read 14.7 all the time.

Any ideas?
Old 06-30-10 | 06:33 PM
  #54  
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Turns out the wideband sensor was bad. Oh well, I had a spare.

Timing isn't correct. Car starts and idles around 2500RPM, and after a few minutes the manifold coming out the rear rotor is glowing. More advance speeds up the idle more, retard turns it down.

I'm thinking of just trying the timing where Hitman said to set it. Maybe my timing light is super slow or something.

Help?
Old 07-01-10 | 04:30 PM
  #55  
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So, how do I slow down my idle?

Vacuum leak? My haltech shows -10 psi of vacuum, my mechanical autometer boost/vaccuum gauge shows about 17. Both are run off a manifold off the brake booster line.
Old 07-01-10 | 09:09 PM
  #56  
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Tried verifying timing and it's nowhere near correct.

Set the timing to 70/1 and the car starts and will almost idle at 850. Timing light shows it's close.

Is it 180* off at this point? How is 70/1 way closer than 65/11 when I inserted the CAS correctly?
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