The gain values are set at 2 and the filter is set at 2 as well. Initially I ran the values between 0 and 7, and I didn't seem to notice a difference. I know that I should leave the gain values as low as possible, and it seems to run great at 2 once it starts. I will try to up the gains and see if it will pickup the signal at cranking speed. I spent the whole night fighting with my truck, so maybe I will be able to spend a little time with it tomorrow.

Yeah, it's a trigger problem for sure. I can also pull the CAS and spin it by hand and hear everything working like it should. I did a quick check of the pins in the harness initially and everything appeared to make sense. Would it run at all if the pins were incorrect? I checked everything pretty quick, then assumed everything was kosher after I drove it around a few times. I will check them again in a couple of days. Is Casey the guy in Des Moines that you were helping out (c_mart_28 I believe)? Sorry, I'm relatively new to the board and not familiar with him yet.

Thanks for helping me work through this, you guys have been great!

 

Yeah casey is c_mart_28

Our started up too. It's just getting that damn signal that's the hard part.

3 cases with exact same problem/scenario..... Is there something were not aware or doing wrong?

I'd love to point to finger at haltech but it's hard to believe this is that common of a problem.

 

just wondering has any one trying using the MSD 8509 stabilizer to see if that fixed anything?

 

Haltech actually advises to use their own RA8 reluctor adapter, my guess, having used the 8509's quite a few times with great success is that it would work better with the X.

Haltech used to recommend the MSD boxes and even sell them back when the E6S was around, now a days, since haltech is under new management, their techs obviouisly arent that familiar with them so they will pushthe RA8 on you most of the time.

Since you need 2 MSD8509s for most multitooth apps, and they cost about the same as an RA8, i guess its worth a shot.

Later,

 

Thank you for the insight.

As for an update on the situation: I sent the package on Friday, and it arrived in AUS today (Tuesday) only 4 days after sending it. Awesome. I'll call them for an update soon.

 

nice

 

Cool, please keep us updated on what you hear. I just got a reply from Haltech today suggesting that I send my ECU to them. They told me that if I send a copy of the purchase order along with the ECU everything should be covered under warranty. The problem is that I don't have the receipt, and I bought the computer in August, but didn't get a chance to put it in until March. I am still working on getting ahold of the dealer I bought it from to get another copy of the purchase order. Anyway, I am really interested in what you find out.

 

well, called today (sunday, monday in AUS) and they hadn't look at it yet. Matt told me that it would be looked at either today or tomorrow, and then offered to give me a call once he had any info. Been very helpful thus far, hopefully will have results in the next couple days.

 

Well, got my results. No errors. Bad deal. Back to the drawing board....

 

Yeah, bum deal for sure. How much did it end up costing? I just got all the information I need to send mine off yesterday, but I haven't done it yet. Since we are having such similar problems, I am expecting to get the same results you did. Do you know of anyone in Iowa that has one that does work all the time? I would love to swap mine with someone else to try that idea after hearing your story. I live in the Iowa City area, but I work in Cedar Rapids, so it would be easy for me to try someone out in this area. Heck, I would drive to Des Moines if there was a possibility of getting something figured out. Since you're "Back to the drawing board," what direction are you taking? Does anyone have an osciliscope that could visualize the signal and determine if the signal is to weak or if there is just to much noise? I am assuming a weak signal, but I haven't confirmed that yet. I was hoping that would fix it as much as you were. Good Luck!

Later,
-B

 

Well, I should be getting my unit back this week sometime hopefully, but I won't be able to do anything with it as I have to go away for two weeks for my job. We've already started trying different paths, first being taking out the harness and making sure there aren't any problems with that..we're also toying around with the idea of replacing the CAS wire all together. Even the stock wire seemed to be much better than the one supplied by Haltech. If I do get mine back, we could see about hooking it up to your car to see what happens. Jason (Sesshoumaru) is from around the CR area and will be making a trip back sometime I'm sure.

 

I have an osciliscope

 

hey guys i finally got a constant trigger from my 3rd gen.


what I ended up doing was buying a stock harness and useing that, I belive sence the ignition harness is completely seperate from the CAS that the amount of interference isent as much as a problem. now if i cant just get it to start.

Ive check to see if the coils are firing they are, the injectors are also working, but it keeps flooding the engine, what should the timing be set at? and also does anyone know the Injector MS for idle and start up, I belive mine are flooding the engine.

 

Great! I will try that tomorrow night and report back with what happens.

I use a base map from the Hitman website and it has been awesome so far. I would recommend starting with that if possible. The other thing to make sure of is that you have the injectors setup as staged, and your staging bar set correctly (12 in my case) otherwise you will flood the crap out of the car everytime.

I only fire the primariers (550cc injectors) for the points below, so you may need to adjust if you use different sized injectors. Here are a couple of points to help you get started:

Load....Inj Time
0 RPM
-29.19....4.26
-18.94....5.14
-8.68....6.01
1.58....6.89

500 RPM
-49.71....3.30
-39.45....4.23
-29.19....4.90
-18.94....5.55
-8.68....6.22
1.58....6.89

1000 RPM
-49.71....3.38
-39.45....3.99
-29.19....4.71
-18.94....5.44
-8.68....6.16
1.58....7.02


Awesome, maybe we can work something out so we can get all this crap figured out soon. I will be at work tomorrow and I have AIM going all the time. My screen name is anniversary7. Get in touch with me if you get a chance.

Later,
-Brandon

 

ahh!!!!, well after about 3 hours of work, I still cant get the engine to fire, Ive tried the base map, a map for a car like mine, my own map...nothing will get it off its feet. Its seems like its just not catching, this is also a brand new motor which might be cause some of my problems.

I tested the Plugs there all firing, their all brand new. I can smell gas so im assuming the injectors are working. the only thing i have noticed is most engines have some vacume when starting, sence I do not have my IC piping finshed yet I dont have any kind of negative pressure, so basicly the map sensor is reading just about 0. I checked the map it seems to be injecting a lot of fuel for that reading.

if any one has any suggestions I would welcome them.

 

You should be getting a vacuum reading of some sort during cranking regardless of the piping in front of the throttle body. I usually see about -10 Kpa, which is why I posted the ranges I did. Do you have the MAP sensor hooked up to a port that is after the throttle body? New engines are always hard to start. With the last couple of engines I built I had to push start the cars the first time. If you are having a hard time getting good compression, you can always try to pull the plugs and squirt a little (20w50) oil into the leading plug hole. Something else you can do is disable the injectors and crank the engine over for a few cycles to clear it. The first couple times I flooded mine it would actually start and run for about 3 seconds with the injectors turned off! That should give you an idea of how bad I flooded it! Good luck, new engines can be a bastard to start the first time.

Later,
-B

 

I'll try to hit ya up on aim later tonight (mine is garthmog).

I can't use aim at work.

 

BRILLIANT!!!! I did this last night, and it worked great for me too. I started the car 5 or 6 times in a row last night without any problems. I carpool to work and this is not my week to drive, but I went out to try it before work today and it fired up on the first try. I did look at the wire difference, and I do agree that the stock trigger wires are significantly better looking than the Haltech supplied trigger wires. I would recommend doing this if you get the occasional signal during cranking, but a good signal if it ever starts. I still have my amplifiers set at 2 and my motronic filter set to 2 as well.

I can't use aim at home We have free dial up from the university, and it's really slow. I only use the internet at home if I really need to for something. Honestly, as long as Casey can get his running then everything should be ok. If he can't then I would help out anyway I could just so that everyone can get going.

Good luck,
-B

 

My apm are set at 1, and Im getting a great signal. now, if i can only get the motor to build some compression so it can start

 

If you pull the plugs and crank it over (pull the fuse for the Haltech power first) do you strong even sounding pulses? What is your peak compression? Is your timing set right? The first motor I built was a real learning experience trying to get it to start. I eventually resorted to pull starting it and that worked. If your compression is over 60 on all faces, you have high enough compression that it should be able to start. Good Luck!
-Brandon

 

He has a FD so his timing should be cake.

I would check to see if the setup is corrent. (locked timing/correct signal input)

do your rpms look normal?

Use the fuel cut off option a few times and let it unflood itself too.

 

heh, i checked today my compression is fine, 60+ on all faces with 3mm seals. I went ahead and added a bit of oil to help seal it somemore with no results

Im using a base map off of hitmans website, but the timing seems a bit fubar. the timing should be set at -5/-20 btdc or 5-20 atdc. its showing up at around 7, then jumps around while cranking so i belive the map is wrong. I tryed to lock the timing at -5 btdc but the e6x dosent allow for -5 timing locks. so that dident work.


I know my injectors work Ive tested them with an occ scope, also i have tooked up all three ign outputs to an occ and watched, all the timing events are happenging, I also tested the coils they all seam fine, hell i even grounded a plug to the frame to check for spark, and it worked.

the engine doesnt even seem like its trying.


on a side note one night about 5 weeks ago before i fixed my trigger isses i got her to start for about 3sec at a time with the timing set at 15. ive tryed to lock at 15 with no results...


I might just have to pull start this car also


Im getting a steady trigger, rpm while cranking are at 200-255.

 

MrRx
what is the amperage (actual) and Volatage (actual) of your battery during cranking?

 

10 volts+ while cranking, no idea on amps, ill have to check.

 

I absolutely hate this

reloomed the harness.

Ran the cas wire seperate from everything else

Solder'd the CAS wire to the CAS.

set gains from 0-7

Everyonce in a while it will pick up rpms. No idea why.

I have no ideas left.......... Only to update the firm ware. I think there is one out for the E6X.

Anyone do that?