ok guys I dont know If I did something wrong but for some odd reason when I switch the key to on Injector 1 starts firing to the point that it started leaking fuel out by the exhaust manifold . my RPMS are bouncing between 14,000 and 16,000 on the laptop. that is with the car off not even cranking it. my coils are not firing at all well they did fire for a split second is something wired wrong or is my ecu toasted? I redid all the wiring to make sure nothing was wrong and it is still doing it. recalibrating the TPS did slow the injector down but it didnt stop it.

the car is an FC with the stock CAS, 720/1600 Injectors, 3 MSD 6AL's, 2 MSD 8509s and a Haltech E6S.

please help im really anxious to get this car on the road

 

E6S needs to be configured from the inside, that means making sure the jumpers and dip switches inside are set correctly for your application, the E6S manual clearly explains how to do this.

 

Claudio Im aware of the Jumpers and switches. I did read it in the manual however I didnt really understand much of how the jumper thing works. I dont know if it has to do with the language barrier or my inexperience with this type of equipment. I ve been trying to educate myself on the subject but i still got lots of things to learn. the computer came from another rx-7 (3rd Gen) so i dont think there should be that much more to change maybe the igntion. the dip switches are seted up as indicated on this writeup by the hitman http://www.hitman.hm/installation.htm I do have another question on the writeup says to use the black/green and the white/black for the trailing and the light green for the leading but the e6s manual says to use the blue and the white/black for the trailing. which is the correct one to use? and thanks again

 

Ah! but you have MSD 8509's, you need to leave everything the way it was on the previous install, and hook the MSD boxes backup, dip switches too. Also, the tooth offset for the 2nd gen trigger should be 11.

 

claudio you were right after or conversation on the phone I got home and doublechecked my settings the problem was that the toot ofset was set to 1 i guess my buddy changed it while he was trying to load the maps. changed it to 11 and the problem stopped instantly . but I still have absolutely no spark. Im reading 120 RPM's on the laptop but no spark on any of the coils. would there be anything else you could advise me on checking? I also PMed BDC like you recommended me to see if he can also help me out.

 

As i mentioned before, put the MSD 8509 boxes back on, put the dip switches as they were when you got the ECU and you should be fine, no spark means you're not reading the Home correctly, the S was finicky when it came to reluctor signals, so just use the MSD boxes, set your trigger input as Hall Effect, rising Edge and you should be OK. Using them is really a whole lot better than trying to get it to work without them.

 

Claudio, I mounted the 8509's and did what you said and now im not getting any RPM readings on the laptop. I placed all the dip switches to the up position which should be the setting for hall effect imput nothing happens.this is the way i wired the 2 msd 8509's.



Is there anything else you sugest me to do?

 

Polito Racing! No RPM is always always always a trigger wiring or setup problem.

Let me dig up the wiring for the 8509's I have on my E6K writeup. Double-check and see if it's what I've got (what I have is verifiably good as I used them on my own car several years back):

[Wiring (2) MSD 8509 Signal Stabilizers]
(for E6A/S or bypassing Internal Reluctors on E6K)

Haltech E6x Shielded Trigger Pickup harness -> MSD units colour codes:
WHITE (or YELLOW) - Trigger + (PURPLE) ]
RED - Trigger - (GREEN) ] - (Use one box for these Trigger inputs)
GREEN - Home + (PURPLE) ]
BLACK - Home - (GREEN) ] - (Use one box for these Home inputs)

MSD 8509 Trigger Box YELLOW - WHITE on E6x trigger harness
MSD 8509 Home Box YELLOW - GREEN on E6x trigger harness

- If NOT using internal reluctors and using the MSD boxes, only two of the four leads
in the trigger harness are used after those boxes. The Red and black leads are not used; just green and white (yellow
outputs spliced on MSD 8509's respectively).

See if that helps!

B

 

Um, hey Brian, the trigger wire on the Haltech harness is ALWAYS the thin yellow wire, and the Home trigger is always the green. Then you have red and blue wich are common ground on the X, and independent on the K.

The MSD 8509's have black and red for power, yellow for signal out to the ECU, and voilet (trigger/neg pos.) and green (trigger/home neg.)

The diagram Polito posted there is 100% correct.

Here's what the E6S manual says to do when using Hall Effect signals, ie. MSD 8509's:



If you have connected everything accordingly, and set the software to Hall Effect, and the dip switches like this, there is no reason for it to not work, other than that the haltech may be bad.

Here is what you need to do with the E6S to configure it for Internal Reluctors, i know it works, cause i have done a couple of installs that way, by following the diagrams and charts on the Manual, set everything to ON, and by doing so, and bringing the dip switches A-B-C-D-E to ON (or UP) you will be able to connect the ECU directly to the CAS without the aid of the MSD8509's. If when you do that, the ECU still doesnt register RPMs, its possible that the trigger chip inside may be damaged and this means a lovely all expense paid trip to Australia for repairs.

The jumpers are ON when the little plastic "jumper" is joining 2 pins (this also means closed), OFF/Opened, when the little jumper is not joining the 2 pins.

See here: The plastic thingy joins the 2 pins, ON, the opened pins unjoined, OFF.


Here's the Jumper configuration chart:



The default is ON/Closed and the way its setup it should be enough to get the signal into the ECU correctly. If you get spikes this way, then set Jumpers 9 and 10 to OFF, if its still spiking, set jumpers 1 and 2 to OFF.

If all this fails, then its off to Oz for repairs.

 

ok just to make sure I understood what you said. you want me to leave all the dip switches on the on position. you also want me to set all the jumpers to the on(closed) position? But now Im confused on something. Is there an actual software setting for hall sensor on the E6S or you mean hardware like you explained me on the phone which would be with the dip switches? I was reading 120 RPMs with the ECU wired and set for reluctors but I wasnt getting any spark. thats why you told me to go ahead and rewire the 8509's back into the car.

 

Im sorry to have been unclear.

Heres the 2 procedures outlined:

First, when you did the internal reluectors and were seeing only 120rpms, that sounds a little slow, is your battery fully charged, is the engine spinning properly? Then, lets leave all as it was and improve the settings on the home channel, the way to do this, is by revising the jumpers for that, as you can see in the chart for the jumper settings you will need to make sure that the home channel jumper 9 on the ON position, make sure jumper 1 is on the ON position.

Now, while you say you have NO spark, have you made sure the settings on the Ignition Setup is set to (and this is regardless of what you use for trigger, since you're using MSDs to fire the coils, because the E6S doesnt handle the stock modules):

Direct Fire
Constant Duty
Rising Edge
40% Period

Secondly, option number 2 would be to leave the internal jumpers alone, and set the dip switches to the ON position and connect the MSD8509 boxes.

Sorry for being unclear before.

 

ok I took the 8509's off, set the other stuff in the ECU as you told me to (Direct Fire, Constant Duty, Rising Edge, 40% Period. Jumper 9 on the ON position, and jumper 1 is on the ON position. my rpms are now 260 on the laptop but Im still lacking the spark. now on the Trigger and Home EDGE values do I still leave them on rising or do I also need to change those? and one last question that came to my head after reading your post. I have the 6Al's in between of the coil and the Ignitor as indicated to do on this post. by viking war hammer on post#10

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=6AL

you said the E6S doesnt handle the stock modules. now my question should I delete the Ignitors and only use the 6AL's and the coils only or is this the correct combination for my car?

 

ok guys I deleted the Ignitors on the leading coils and got spark on the leading. but I have no clue on how to wire the trailing because of the toggle switch. If someone has some sort of diagram or explain me how to hook them up we will be golden.

 

I got the car to start on the leading coils Im as happy as I can be!!!!!!!!!! All i need is to figure out how to wire the trailings without the coils and ill be set. thanks for all the help so far and for the help to come.

 

here is a video of the first startup. Sorry but the car had already started by the time the camera started filming. remember the car is running with leadings alone I cant get the trailings to fire. We checked with the timing light and the leading is lining up perfectly with the mark on the pulley.

http://s283.photobucket.com/albums/k...chostartup.flv