a few weeks ago, my ign2 driver stopped working out of the blue, which left my engine half-*** running on 3 coils (running direct fire with ls1 coils). i reloaded the firmware (33 w/1.82) reloaded the baseE8 map and then my tuned map, and the problem magically went away.
well the same thing happened a few days ago, and reloading the new firmware isn't fixing the problem.

what the hell should i do? re-wire the damn ignition to run wastespark on ign3/4? that's rediculous. could going back to the original firmware fix the problem? where can i get the original firmware?

 

I just sent you the firmware.

 

ludwig, thanks sir.

now a question: can i use the map that I tuned in 1.82 with the 1.71 software?

 

nope, but you can transfer all your settings over, start with the default E8 map as I mentioned in my pm, with 2 halwin windows open transfer all settings over.. Make sure you hit every single configuration page.

PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE MAP SENSOR CONFIGURATION IN YOUR CASE!!!!

To copy and paste maps, view the map as text, unlock variable points under edit select all blocks, go over to the other halwin window and unlock variable points, paste and then re lock variable points.

 

Isn't the v1.82 still in beta?


-Ted

 

before i copy and paste every single cell out of my map over to the base map, i'm going to try to load the 1.71, then reload 1.82 and see if it fixes it.

 

tried to reload the 33 firmware, didn't fix it.

at this point, i've got the fuel and ignition maps all copied over, but what am i supposed to do about the correction maps? there's no text view to copy and paste, and if i try to copy and paste the bars across windows they just all zero out...do i have to re-build every correction map? i really hope it's not this tedious!

 

another quick question:

my ignition divide seems to be stuck on 2 (greyed out), as compared to the 1.82 software, where it says 1.

 

Thats only used for batchfire, if it would make you feel beter switch to batchfire then set it and 1 and back to sequential, its grayed out because it doesn't do anything

I took my time and it took about an hour (to do the copy).

 

i loaded the 1.71, then reloaded 1.82 with my current map and it fixed it. i thought i got lucky.

then, two days later (today) the ignition driver went out again! so i'm gonna get some new spark plugs and reload 1.71 permanently. if that doesn't work, i'm going to set the haltech box on fire and stomp on it with my foot.

 

update:
i reloaded 1.71, got some new spark plugs, and it fired right up. however, i was getting pretty bad hesitation, and upon some troubleshooting, i realized that i have no spark coming from my #1 (front leading) and #4 coils (rear trailing) . i can actually unplug #1 and #4 coils while the car is running and nothing changes.
basically right now the engine is running on the 1T and 2L plugs only...
i'm going to upload my map so hopefully some of you can provide some help, because i am thoroughly confused at this point, and i'm fed up...

 

another update: i sat the 1L and 2T plug wires on my strut tower and watched them spark in time as the engine was running. i also plugged some spark plugs into them to verify the spark and it worked fine. i plugged everything back up and the hesitation persists.

at light load it runs smooth, but as soon as i stab the throttle or give it more than ~15-20% throttle it feels like i have my trailing plug wires swapped or something (they're hooked up correctly)

edit: ludwig i see you checkin out this thread. i need some ideas!

 

I have been covered up this last week. Sorry I haven't answered your calls. I was thinking when I read this thread before I went to bed last night that it sounds more like a coil issue than the ECU. I've only used 1.82 on one car and that was with an E11 and two DIS-2 boxes (Direct Fire like you're running) but I never had a spark issue. Got another car here now that's similar to your's with an E8 w/1.71 running direct fire on the Mercury Marine coils and it's fine. So I doubt it's a firmware issue one way or the other. I'd go through the coil wiring again and make sure you're getting good power and ground. Is it the same coils all the time? Have you tried swapping the coils around to see if the problem moves with the coils or it's centered on a certain ECU channel. Did you buy the coils second hand? Chance you got some bad ones?

 

i am going to swap out coils tomorrow and see what happens.

i suppose if that doesn't work i'll try swapping the connectors/wires around and seeing if the ignition channel is the problem. however, i did verify that all 4 spark plugs are firing with them hooked up to the wires just sitting up on the shock tower, so i'm thinking that may not be necessary.
the problem seems to be when there's any type of load, so i guess the only thing it could be is a weak coil?

 

Is the engine well grounded? As engine load increases so does the demand on the ignition. So naturally that's when problems would occur.

 

Jacob, What do your trigger's look like check out the trigger diag data page. Trigger noise can be somewhat intermittent and cause all kinds of issues.

 

you should probably just set it on fire...I had to send mine back twice for the same reason. almost two years of bullshit using different plugs, software, apparent broken transistors for ign1..finally just got a microtech and actually drive my car

 

update: plugged in some brand new coils that my friend had and nothing changed...

and colin: how should my trigger diagnostics page look?

 

consistent between idle and when you rev it up to 3-4K rpm

IIRC without looking at it your looking for 12 and 260 especially in the pulses since last home, it must be 12, if you see it wander then something is wrong.

Check you ignition settings for gain and filters, try filters and gains both around one maybe filters 2 to see if it makes a difference.

Try one more thing, un ground the haltech case physically I know this sounds weired but I have seen something recently to indicate that this should be tried, set it on a peice of cardboard (hell mine is mounted under the passenger seat velcro to a piece of plexi glass).

 

i checked the trigger diagnostics page and it was consistent when revving. it was 12 and 260.
i tried changing the gain and filters to no avail, the roughness only worsened, so i put it back to what it was.
i guess i can try grounding the haltech box, but i'm not expecting that to do anything.
also, i verified that i have continuity in my coil wiring.

 

ok i did some more tinkering today.

i had all four coils plugged in and everything hooked up correctly as before, but unplugged IGN1 and IGN4, nothing happened. unplugging IGN2 and IGN3 kills the engine. IGN1 and IGN4 seem to do nothing, no matter what i do with them.

i swapped the coil plugs around and basically found that the IGN1 (L1) and IGN4 (T2) are doing nothing. i swapped IGN1 for IGN2, IGN4 for IGN3 and the car ran the exact same --just running the opposite plugs as before. this verifies that all 4 spark plugs/wires/coils are functioning correctly.

so i guess my next question is how do i test the ign outputs in the haltech to see if it is the problem?

 

test with a multimeter, try ungrounding the haltech.

 

one other thing would could try is running wasted spark, I have never had an issue before running waste spark, did have some issues running direct ign.


Bassicly the same thing thats happening to you.

 

doesn't the haltech default to use IGN1 as the leading in wastespark? apparently i have no IGN1/IGN4 drivers, so i don't think that will work.
unless you're implying that somehow the IGN1 will work when i switch to wastespark. i suppose i could go out and try this relatively easily.

to run wastespark all i'll need to do is splice the IGN1 wire to the signal for two of my coils (two leadings) and use IGN2 and IGN3 for the T1 and T2 coils, correct? will i need to change any of my other ignition settings?

 

Jacob, you've got gmail.